Kicker hideaway- final upgrade to the $250(+) 3rd gen premium upgrade (+Kicker Key 180.4 amp)

For the wires in your hand, connect all of the solid colors together, and all of the black striped wires together.

Solid grey from radio side, solid grey from vehicle side, solid grey from sub, solid white from sub

Striped grey from radio side, striped grey from vehicle side, striped grey from sub, striped white from sub

Normally one would do the greys together and the whites together, but you’ve already soldered your whites in the main harness so no biggie

 

Thanks, I just soldered the wires as shown in OP's post. Wife is putting the kids to bed so I'm gonna keep plugging away at this.

 

Ok got it wired and just fired it up. It definitely packs some punch for such a small unit! Even at just halfway up on the bass remote, I'm getting quite a bit of rattling from the back though. I'm gonna have to figure out how to secure it so it doesn't rattle back there.

Thanks guys for all your help getting it wired in!

 

I just stuck a couch cushion back there which actually made a huge difference, sounds great! I will mess with the settings tomorrow to fine tune it.

 

Ok back to the taco tunes conversation! HAHA just kidding.

But now seriously, I have the following:
Tweeter upgrade
The kicker front and tears
JL Audio 10w6v3
Alpine halo 9
Rockford 5 channel amp

Did you make the harness so that the tweeter upgrade can still be used with the fronts? Does it make it to HIGH with four tweeters in the mix up front? Does it drop the impedance?

 

The tweeters will still work just using the 2 metra pieces listed in this thread. To me, it makes the highs a bit harsh (using the factory radio) but that HALO9 should give you enough EQ settings to fine tune it way more than the factory head unit. Put on a song with lots of highs (rock with lots of cymbals crashing, if thats your music) and pull uptake EQ and start playing with the upper bands till you get it where you want. Or just try some of the presets to see if they fit your liking

Edit* they wont drop the impedance enough to matter with that rockford amp pushing them.

 

So I need 2 of the adapters?

 

You shouldnt actually need anything. You already have the metra harness connected to the halo.

 

Even if I want to run the wires to the Rockford amp?

 

I want to run heavier gauge wire to get the 100 watt to speakers.

 

Factory wiring will handle 100w. And from personal experience, just because your amp CAN do 100w does not mean that’s what you’ll be doing. I’m running 50w per channel and my young ears can’t handle more than about 80% volume. I was running 75w per channel in my jeep and with the top down and doors off, I couldn’t hear a semi pass me on the highway.

 

To get the amp wired up, get a roll of speedwire and run that from the amp back up behind the head unit. Then, where the halo speaker wires are spliced to the metra harness along with power, ground, and accy, cut off the halo speaker wires and now you have your inputs to the factory wiring. Connect your newly run speed wire to those and you’re all set

 

Got it thanks.

 

Let us know if you need anything and how it sounds!

 

Ordered!

 

Instead of soldering the Metra harnesses, couldn't I just do something like this Add-an-Amp harness and run RCAs to a Kicker RCA input adapter for the Hideaway?

$41 Add An Amp Amplifier Adapter Interface to Factory OEM Car Stereo Radio System for select Toyota Scion Subaru Vehicles- Add Subwoofer Bass Amp etc.- No Factory Premium Amp- Vehicles listed below

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CQUL240

 

I am sure you could. The metra harnesses were a solution @destin_meeks came up with so I could avoid doing business with a particular vendor who had a plug and play harness similar. Yes the metra harness involves soldering but it avoids any hacking of the stock wiring harness or having to resort to scotch-lock connectors.

The advantage to soldering is the connections will never corrode or pull apart. It is 10-15 minutes work including shrink wrap. For those who can’t solder you could always connect the two harness halves with butt connectors. Less clean and tidy than solder but still effective but it can pull apart or corrode if pulled on or conditions allow corrosion.

 

That would definitely work as a simple solution. A bit pricey at $30, and you still need RCA cables long enough to reach the sub. But gets the job done for sure.

 

Does the rear brackets for the doors need screws like the front set?

$17 82-8146 6" x 9" Front Speaker Adapter for Select Lexus and Toyota Vehicles, Black, Apple

82-8146 rear speaker plates

 

The speakers will need to be screwed to the bracket, but with the front and rears, you should be able to use factory bolts (if I remember correctly. Should all be 10mm)