Best uniball UCA?

Everyone will just tell you to get what they have...


That being said, buy Total Chaos, I have them and I love them!

 

I’m not bitching about the price at all. They’re quality and damn near industry standard. I even bought a complete set to replace the damaged one. Even a VERY reputable dealer affiliated with the forum (which I won’t name) said it’s the wildest thing they’ve ever heard.

I just wanted to let everyone know that if you damage one.... plan on buying a completely new set at retail.

That being said.... I have an extra passenger TC control arm with 40 miles on it if anyone ever damages one.

 

One thing to consider is If your running shocks with external reservoirs. Boxed style UCA's may rub on certain reservoir hoses.

 

Hands down, the ICON delta join is the best UCA join option on the market.

You get the articulation radius of a uniball and the self-sealed properties of an OEM joint. No brainer, unless you like exposed, grimey, squeeking uniballs on your street truck.

I have full Kings, and they clash a bit, but is the most flexible option I've seen.

 

I'm excited to read this. Stressed out a set of the standard Icon UCAs and now have the Delta Joints coming.

 

This says it is heat treated stainless steel. Either they are lying.....or they have weakened the molecular structure of the steel. Stainless steel cannot be hardened and should not be heat treated. It weakens the metal.

 

Austenitic 300 series stainless steel are annealed for improved ductility and corrosion resistance but its not a post heat treatment process rather than a manufacturing step completed at the mill to achieve the type of SS.

 

It specifically says as quoted above though. Whether anealed post heat treat or not, it breaks down the crystalline structure that gives stainless steel it’s strength. And it says it is heat treated for corrosion resistance, but stainless steel IS stainless steel because it is formulated to be corrosion resistant. No heat treatment needed.

 

Cause they can and cause there is enough us, idiots, that pay through the nose thinking it will somehow vastly improve our rig lol. I swear that’s the only reason.

 

Had open unibal design not going to name the brand. Never had that issue you’re referring to.

 

So I’m confused, you’re saying it is heat treated as it’s being milled.....as in machined to a finished product. Or at the plant that produces the stainless steel? And just like heat treating stainless, annealing stainless has very little affect on metal structure of 300 series SS. It would be more effective to just be transparent and say the part is machined from 304 stainless steel, which is by far the easiest to machine and only real option in this application from a cost vs durability standpoint. After all, most people buying the product will not know the difference between 304 and 316L SS.

 

LOVE my @TOTAL CHAOS uniball UCA. here in dry dusty AZ they are very easy to maintain. For me, the rest of my truck gets more maintenance than average trucks so I don’t mind wiping off the uniball and spraying PTFE tri-flow on it routinely. I’d buy total chaos UCA over and over again for my uses and needs. Others have mentioned sealed uniballs being the best idea but remember that even sealed uniball will still likely get debris ingress but if it’s sealed it won’t easily come out. I think that’s the case, anyway.

 

No, I'm agreeing with you. I assumed they are using 304 or 316 which can not be heat treated. The annealing process occurs as the raw materiel is being produced at the mill and is a controlled air cooled process which isn't a heat treatment. Buttt if you up the carbon content to a martensitic 420 or 440C SS then yes it could be heat treated but I'm not to familiar with these materials as its more tooling and die material and used for its hardness. Third option which can not be heat treated would be a ferritic SS 405 or 409 used for mufflers and automotive parts with the highest corrosion resistance properties but also high ductility which I think wouldn't be ideal for uniball.

 

Recently upgraded the front on my 14 Taco to 6112's and 5160's in the rear with a two inch block.

Have the front set on the second from the highest setting...called for lifting the truck 2.5" but it gave me 3".

That said, I've had it aligned three times. Twice by Firestone and finally by the dealer...it's seems to be close but I still get some slight wandering and the ride is not as smooth as I would have expected.

Would Total Chaos upper control arms fit with stock wheels running 265/75/16? How much of a ride quality improvement would I get...worth it?

I am near their headquarters in Corona, CA. Icon and Camburg are near me as well.

Thanks

 

I think lifting with blocks is your first problem ....

 

Not true, look up martensitic stainless steel and ferritic stainless steels. Many rely on heat treating.

 

Had heard this was best vs adding a leaf which can be much stiffer. I am not carrying additional weight.

What’s the best ride quality option to get 2” out of the rear?

 

Would Deaver U402 or TC UCAs improve ride more?

 

Any good diagram of caster and how it moves with lifts?