Suspension setup FOR MY NEEDS

So, everything I've read has said decide what you want to do with your truck THEN decide on what suspension setup you want. I have a pretty good idea of what I want and my needs; what I can't seem to find is a simple, "if you want this buy this" type of thread. I'm sorry if this has been answered before and I just can't seem to locate the info. Currently my truck sits on stock rims with Cooper Discoverer ST(not the maxx) 255/85/16. I'll probably need wheel spacers with lift so I don't start rubbing-but that's okay. I will, for the foreseeable future, retain the stock wheels. At some point I'll add skids and sliders.

Here are my thoughts.
I want a mild lift(2-3 inches) to have the ability to run 34's with a cab mount chop. My truck will be used on forest roads, overland trips, etc but I will probably do less than 1000 miles of technical off roading during the entire life of the truck. Dirt roads. Muddy trails wide enough for a tractor during hunting season. The occasional overland trail when life permits. Otherwise, it'll spend it's life in the city.

Front setup: I want something adjustable in the front. I will, at some point, add a winch. Why? Because self recovery is important as many times I will be going alone. I won't be stupid, but I want the ability to recover if needed. I don't see the need for reservoirs or anything more than this. I only want something adjustable so it can handle the weight of a winch and a low profile winch bumper.

Rear setup: Usually, my truck will be unloaded. I will probably add a camper shell and use a sleeping platform for camping trips. I'd like to add a battery box and auxiliary battery for trips. I'll also put a fridge back here. Other than the fridge and battery the bed will be unloaded MOST of the time. Will an AAL work for this or do I need rear shocks plus the AAL?

 

I think a call to Marie @HeadStrong Off-Road is in order.

 

1. Wheel spacers will make your tires rub MORE, not less.
2. Buy some 5100's up front, AAL in the back and be done with it. This will let you raise it up to counteract the sag from winch.
3. No matter what, you have to be able to fit your larger tires at stock height. So buy the tires, make your mods to eliminate rubbing and THEN lift it. That way there is no issues.

 

I just did 5100s front (stock springs) and 5100s back with a single add-a-leaf (added to exiting pack). The main goal with my truck was to accept more weight of camping gear without hitting the bump stops.

I gained 1.5” in lift in the back (had lost 1/2 due to camper shell), and 1” lift in front, so I have maintained the factory rake with 1” lift all around.

I have not a single negative thing to say about this change, at all......and that’s a first for me. The results were surprising to me. Better handling on road, better stability on highway, better going slow, better going fast, better on technical terrain, and better comfort. Less nose dive on braking and less wallowy in corners. 100x better unloaded, and loaded. Same fuel economy. Really makes me scratch my head as these shocks are not that much money. Toyota should have included them stock.

 

I'm running Icon stage 1 + AAL and SPC UCAs. If you're going to run 33+ you'll definitely need UCAs that can adjust your caster. I do like 90% city driving and Icons are better on the street. I was originally going to do something like OMEs or bilstein 6112s but I read the OMEs are really harsh on the street and the 5100 and 6112s are a) not really rebuildable and b) need to take the shock off to adjust. Whereas I can adjust my shocks with a spanner wrench on the fly.

 

If you're looking to do a more inexpensive lift with durability id suggest old man emu all around with a new set of dakars, add a leaf, u bolt flip kit, upgraded bumpstops and extended break lines

 

I wouldn't count out reservoirs. You'd be surprised how quick you can get into shock fade.

I run some pretty far out there logging roads to get to lakes and mountains. For me personally it's nice to have my dsc adj on my fox to go from running fast on washboards and holes forever and then click them down to big g outs for the trails and what not. The rears also help when hauling weight and towing.

Not needed for everyone. But just food for thought.

 

Agreed. You dont want to be going "shit i wish i ordered that" or "i wish i had that" when youre out and about

 

Might I ask why?

You're running a full 33 now. A 34 is only going to get you a 1/2" more ground clearance.

And a lot of expense/maintenance issues for a 1,000 mile lifetime proposition.

 

I would just be pissed at myself if I had a chance to go on an adventure and it got rough, and now my $1000 shocks are locking up because I didn't spend the extra $ for resi.

Happened earlier this month. Had the chance. Made a call. 37 miles of pure chaos. 1 trip justified those resi's

 

So I can Go icon stage 1 plus AAL and if I don’t do 34’s I dont Have to change the UCA’s. I may Just go that route. Will the AAL be enough to support the bit of gear in the back?

 

The AAL will be enough for the amount of weight it sounds like you'll be carrying and the frequency.

 

if you lift 2+ inches your going to want to install uca's, caster correction and all. However below 2" you could get away with stock uca's.

 

Got it. Thank you.

 

and the pizza cutters are great if you don't want to do any "significant" cutting and trimming

 

Hmmm. I was Hoping to not have to go that route. I may Go with boss coil overs up front to keep from needing UCA’s and whatnot. Just two inches of lift

 

How much lift did you get with the stage 1? I was thinking of going that route and trying to get 3" out of it if it were possible.

 

For what it's worth, I'm running 33s with an Icon stage 3 kit (with new UCAs up front and AAL in the rear), so I didn't have to do any chopping... but... I have my RTT on the bed bars. The load I carry for offroad/fun trips is just camping gear and whatnot -- probably close to what you're doing. So maybe a few hundred pounds in the bed, occasionally. Holds up just fine. So I think the AAL is fine for what you're describing.

 

I think the max you can get is like 2.75". Stock is 1.5" and I adjusted mine to a little over 2" for more clearance when I got my 285s.

 

You might be able to get away with no UCA, but you will probably need to do a cab mount chop and pinch weld hammering. With my UCAs I haven't had to do either yet.

Plus, I had some positive camber with my lift that wasn't adjustable until I got my UCAs. Now I'm at about 0-0.2 on either side.