Key FOB Range too short

Not here. I tried mine across my work parking lot before and was at least about 130' away from the truck and it locked/unlocked no problem.

 

I disconnected the second channel from the main unit, so in the front. You brought up a good point in trying to disconnect it in the rear and testing to see if it’s the camera itself. By any chance did you have a decent amount of extra cable from the BlackSys hardwired kit? I had a good extra 3-4 feet, so I coiled it up and put it down behind the dash from the driver’s side pillar. I’m thinking the coiled cabling might be creating some inductance...

 

Somewhat off task here, but has anyone run these through the washing machine? I haven't yet, but my 2nd gen fob went through more times than I can count.. the range on that thing was amazing, to the day I sold it. I never replaced the batteries in 13 years either. Hoping the 3rd gen fob is sealed as well as it was.

 

I do remember having extra length of cabling but i installed awhile ago so i dont really remember where i put the slack. I think it is just coiled up near the fuse box where i tapped the power though. I have also wired up a front camera, anytime on rear cam and powered garage door switch up in the console so i would have to remove all of that stuff if it was an issue how the power was run.

 

I’m sorry, I meant extra cable length in the 2nd channel not the power line cable. Because I’m thinking the unwanted inductance from the extra couple feet of coiled 2nd channel line might be creating all of the emi...

 

Hmm, i may have put the slack in the a-pillar also on the Taco. I didnt have much slack left on the NX, so maybe that could be a factor. I will need to investigate. I wonder if i could purchase a shielded usb cable for the camera channel....or is there something you can attach to the cable to eliminate the EMI?

 

I am still using the original key-fob on my 2nd gen taco. November 2006. I have not replaced the batteries either.

 

I purchased some ferrite chokes from Amazon that I’m going to install and experiment with at multiple points. These are used for this exact purpose (eliminating emi either from or to the source); unfortunately many cable companies don’t include these anymore like they used to.

Edit:

eBoot 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black

Link to the chokes I ordered

One thing to note is to have the cable wrapped multiple times around and through one choke to increase effectiveness.

 

Ferrite chokes didn’t work for me. Going to try wire shielding from the front pillar to the back camera. If that doesn’t work I’m out of ideas.

 

Ditch the factory key fob /alarm and go with a Viper Smart Start GPS set up . I've got this set up on my 02 DC Pre Runner and like this a lot . Not only do I've got GPS tracking I can also remotely unlock / lock and remote start my truck from anywhere in the world

It's all done from my Smart phone using the Viper Smart Start app

To show you how well this works , I was in Hawaii last year and my friend needed paperwork of his he left in my truck . Within 45sec I unlocked my doors from 2700miles away

 

the same thing happens to me, I have a Viofo camera a129 duo (two cameras) and there is a problem with the rear camera that makes the control does not reach far, I disconnect the rear camera and the remote works perfectly, besides the video of the rear camera It arrives with a lot of noise, does anyone have a solution? I really want to have a double camera

 

Only solution that worked for me was going with another 2-channel camera. I bought the same camera twice and they both caused interference. Some cameras might just operate on a frequency that causes interference.

 

Just a random thought, can you or have you tried to move the front to rear link cable to the other side of the cab?

I have been told, by IT professionals, RF interference can be caused by "leaking" cables. Meaning power lines and com lines running parallel and in close proximity to one another can cause interference with one another typically the lower power(ed) cable is impacted.

My only other guess would be to see if you kill the WiFi from the camera but leave the camera on, if possible, restores the range of your key remote.

If either "fixes" the issue you can then make a decision based on more/better info.

Good luck!!

 

Chin trick??!!

 

I pulled the whole system from its mounted areas and placed both the first channel and second channel in various places in the car and ran the cable in between, around, and under both seats. It affected my signal no matter what orientation I had it in. Atleast for the BlackSys ch-200 it had an effect on my signal no matter where placed. I even placed multiple ferrite chokes everywhere to try and see if it made a difference to no avail. The next step was to place the entire system in a grounded faraday cage and see if that did anything but at that point I just exchanged it for the thinkware f800 Pro which hasn’t given me any issues. I’m thinking my previous system (and others) don’t have an electrically correct grounding design.

 

Sound like you covered all the bases multiple times.

 

I found this thread while googling the remote distance issues, and I don't see anything that might help except holding it to your head (not going to happen). Is there a remote amplifier or anything available?
I was trying to find my truck at the County Fair by using the panic button, and that's when I noticed this problem. Now, if I forget to lock it, I have to walk almost all the way up on the truck to get it to work. Very annoying!

 

Or get this app, module and remote start from @N2DesignsInc

I used to walk back to my truck all the time until i got this. Best money spent EVER!

 

I already have a viper remote start, so maybe I should see if I can upgrade the remote to include lock and unlock features.

 

I think it's $199 installed at Best Buy.