Help appreciated. Minor mods cause major irritations

We can’t assume he has no experience. Shit happens to the best of us.

 

I suggest putting everything back. Check your fuses. Also, if you're going to tap into a power source, I suggest an Add-a-fuse.

 

These are definitely handy for low current applications or sense lines (ie ignition). A word of caution, the left hand blade in that pic (away from the red wire) should be inserted into the source side or bus in the fuse panel. The other side is obviously for the load. If you reverse them, because of the way those fuse taps are wired inside, current for your added accessory will be drawn through the bottom fuse first and then through the top fuse (read: a series circuit). The two fuses are supposed to be in parallel, therefore if your added accessory draws too much current only the top fuse will blow. You can imagine the shitshow if the bottom fuse blew, taking out a circuit that the truck uses (ie something to do with the ECM).
I came across a shoddy two way radio install that had a 10 amp fuse on the bottom, and a 20 amp on top for the radio main power. You guessed it, the 10 amp would blow intermittently when the radio was keyed. I don't recall what circuit in the truck got fucked over when that happened, but it was annoying to say the least. I never use fuse taps for main power anyway, but they are handy for driving a relay or ignition sense lines.

 

Good call. Carry on

 

Simpler way to hardwire dashcam is to run a wiring harness to fusebox and addafuse, not cut factory wiring. You have voided you warranty by messing with the wiring.

 

I would start by disconnecting the battery, removing any new wiring you added and reconnecting the cut wires. Then reconnect the battery and see where you are at. If you are still having issues, pay for an experienced electrician to sort it out. Pray that nothing is burned up.

 

Thank you for this explanation. I had this exact problem and now I know why.

 

Mine only had three. Ground, power when ignition is on, power when ignition is off.

 

Okay... So you got an update???

 

Unless you can reference a schematic, there's really only one way to tell 100% - get out the multimeter and test for voltage with a fuse removed. The source side will usually read ~ +12VDC, while the load side will be 0VDC or close to it. It's a good idea to have a look in the owner's manual and check what each fuse protects before removing/testing. No need to have the key on unless you are hunting for "accessory" or "ignition on" power. Note that modern cars can also have voltages present that are NOT +12VDC.

WHATEVER YOU DECIDE TO DO, BE CAREFUL NOT TO SHORT ANYTHING OUT WHILE TESTING. Note also that turning the ignition on and/or starting the engine with a fuse removed may set a code in the ECM.

The little sockets in the fuse panel can be a bastard to read, especially if your meter probes are not slim/sharp. I've used open (blown) fuses to test in this way because there are little pieces of exposed metal on top where you can easily touch your meter probe. To add to the fuckery, there are also a few different form factors when it comes to automotive fuses. ATO, ATC, Mini, low profile mini, micro2, etc etc etc. You obviously need to have a good look at the fuses before buying an "add a fuse".

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive)


Have fun and be safe!

 

These trucks seem sensitive about electronics. I had same thing happen to me OP. I installed a front/anytime rear camera mod. Did it as instructed and it all worked well initially. Following day, power windows stopped working, AC controls, headlights, etc. Disconnected the kit, tested fuses and found it to be the ECU fuse that blew. One thing I noticed was initially multiple fuses weren't showing any current at all. Well that was cause the ECU wasn't giving power to those areas. The ECU fuse did show blown though, so I replaced it and it all went back to normal. I am no longer screwing with anything and if I end up adding something electronic (light bar) I'm connecting it direct to the battery.

Use this to test your fuses OP, SUPER EASY to use. You touch the exposed fuse ends with the tip. If only one side glows and not the other, fuse is bad. If both glow, fuse is good. If none glow, that area may not be getting power. (For example if your truck is on and your headlight fuse doesn't have any power going to it, it is cause the headlight switch is off, if your turn it on then fuse will register). This tool can be bought at any local automotive store too.

$19 Professional 6-12V Circuit Tester - Indicator Light - Lifetime Warranty by Industrial Tools

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-6-12V-Circuit-Tester-Industrial/dp/B003UHNMMS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1533587739&sr=8-3&keywords=fuse+tester&dpID=41P%2BsAwFsVL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Here's a video on how to use it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKgmIcmp7eo

 

All is well. I was looking online for parts and stumbled onto a free lance auto electrician that did trouble shooting for several dealers in the San Antonio area, including a Toyota dealer.

He found a blown fuse that I missed, rebuilt the little 3-wire harness, reinstalled same, and now everything is working fine.

 

Actually, I was once very active in the Iron Butt/Long Distance Rider and BMW motorcycle communities. I have added and repaired a bunch of driving light, air horn, add'l radios mods, etc.

The new Tacoma is a very different beast.

 

I just hardwired my dash cam this morning. I removed the overhead console and located the light brown and black and white striped wires (these go to the rear view mirror). They were right there in the left of the opening. I used 22 to 18 gauge tap splices and spliced right to them. Replaced battery neg terminal and started truck. So far every thing is working good.

 

Glad you got it fixed!

 

I may eventually hard wire the cameras in but right now I am experimenting with two cameras looking in different locations, and the wiring kit for the one that I wanted to hard wire turned out to have the wrong usb plug anyway. So for now I am just running the one camera off of the accessory outlet.