Front sound stage, mids in the dash? (3rd gen)

I’m looking for some ideas and advice concerning the front sound stage in my 2017 off-road. I’ve followed and installed the $250 kicker speaker replacement route, installing the Subaru tweeters and kicker coaxials in the front and rear doors. While this was better than stock, it got me thinking how it can be improved more.

So, having just swapped the stock deck for a Pioneer 2440nex, I’m looking at building out the front stage and reduce the excessive tweeter / highs I have currently. I’m thinking about trying a 2.5” mid speaker in the dash location like the Morel 254. My goal would then be to pair that with possibly a component set with tweeters mounted on the A pillars or the sail panels, or possibly a better 2-way 6x9 coax (Kicker KS 3-way installed now).

At some point I’d like to utilize the pioneer’s network mode or jump to a full DSP to dial the sound in further in an active configuration, and add a sub to round out the sound. Does this sound like a good direction to go, or what might be other options to consider?

 

The "TacomaWorld Kicker Package" is too bright and tweeter heavy.

Lose half the tweeters, pull the sound stage back up front where it belongs, add a good amp and a real sub and I think you'll be much happier.

I wouldn't bother with the shallow all in one subs. Listen to one before you invest your time and money. They're pretty underwhelming.

 

Every speaker you can buy will be underwhelming running solely on the power from the head unitZ I would throw an amp and some good time correction in there instead of 2.5”s and tweeters in the pillars.

Pioneers time correction and auto eq works really well if you buy their mic (sold separately of course)

I agree that having the coaxials in the doors AND the Subaru tweeters in the dash makes the highs too loud. Especially because those tweeters are titanium dome so they are very bright. Having a good eq in the pioneer will help with a lot of that, and then feeding those speakers the power they want will let some midbass start to get noticed.

Also personally agree about the sub. The kicker hideaway is a great option to add some low end to a system that has literally zero low end. But it’s still an 8” in a tiny enclosure. I install a ton in my shop and the people that want a little boost get exactly what they want and are very happy.

If you want more, get more. But be prepared to spend more. I run a kicker compRT 12” with a passive radiator and love it. I can see it being overkill for lots of people too. They also make it in a 10”, and an 8”. But then you need an amp to run it (500w, 400w, and 300w respectively) and an 8awg amp kit (ofc.. none of that cca crap for $20 on Amazon)

 

I'd try network mode before coughing up for a full-featured DSP. You can get a lot done with it. The newer midrange Pioneers are an amazing value. Unlike the above post though I've never had much luck with auto tune. Plus AFAIK it will boost frequencies instead of only making cuts. You'll need that DSP for a 3-way plus sub though. Network mode is only good for upper, bandpass and low...gotta step up to a P99 for a 4-way. I might have a Pioneer disc mic around here I can send you for the cost of shipping if you wanna try. Just check your time alignment when it's done. My attempts were off by several feet!

A small midrange/widebander sounds like awesomesauce though if you can find one with good off-axis response. That's a tough spot for it firing into the windshield though - way off axis and maybe difficult reflections to boot.

 

I am going to be selling my illusion Audio C3cx here soon.
It will drop right in.

You are going to want an amp to power them and a full dsp is the way to go if you have someone who can help you tune or if you are comfortable figuring it out.

Do you have a budget in mind for the system as a whole?

 

Does the Kicker Comp 10" fit in the passenger side cubby without modifications? It looks like it could. I was also looking at JL Audio (not necessarily the stealthbox) and I think they have a 8 or 10" that might work (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693133/JL-Audio-CP108LG-W3v3.html). I'd like to avoid pulling a bunch of the interior out.

 

I've run the auto-tune and time alignment using an audyssey microphone from my Denon receiver which did seem to help put the stage up front and center. For the distances I figured the measurements being off is much like on the home stereo, it's using it to help change the time delay to get sound to the mic location sooner.

Bouncing off the front windshield seems to amplify treble quite a bit, that's what got me thinking a full range mid might smooth that out a bit.

 

If you don't mind me asking, what are you planning to replace the illusion mids with? Did you have them installed in the stock dash location?

If and when I install a DSP I plan on tackling it myself. I've read up and watched a few tuning videos to get a handle on what's involved. I don't really have a set limit other than to be realistic as this is a daily driver, and I want it to sound good without a lot of interior modifications. Don at https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ has been great and so far I've installed CLD tiles in the front doors. That made a big difference to get rid of the rattles and clean up the low mids.

 

I don’t think the kicker 10” compRT box would fit in the cubby, but I’ve never tried. That cubby comes out so easy, and subs put inside the cubby tend to make a lot of plastic rattle. Worth it to take it out, in my opinion.

For either box, I would have to take some measurements to know for sure. I don’t think any 10” is fitting though.

 

Hey, bud.

I am going to be swapping the c3cx for a set of Audible Physics AR3A mids.
For tweeter duty, I will run a Scanspeak R3004 in some aluminum pods off of ebay. They will be mounted to my sails.

 

Image Dynamics IDQ-10 fits in a sealed 1 cu ft box perfectly in a 2017.

 

Dimensions for my box made out of 1/2" birch plywood. stuffed it with polyfiber too.

 

Looks awesome! Bet it sounds great too!