11,000 miles Clutch Failure?

Just a heads up coasting in N burns more fuel than coasting in gear in a modern car. The ecm cuts fuel with no accelerator input, so you’re technically burning 0 gas when coasting in gear as opposed to idling. That’s why your mpg instant display will jump to 99.9 with no throttle input for a time.

 

22R

 

Super hard to roast a clutch that fast regardless of how badly you drive it.

That said a lot of people have no idea. If you blip the throttle and rev match on downshifts and allow it to engage on upshifta before pinning it the only clutch wear you get is launching in first. You can drive the tits off a car and have the clutch last nearly forever if you're smooth.

 

Can you clarify what this means exactly?

 

Release the clutch completely before punching the gas and when down shifting, try to keep it from over rev'ing or going to red line using the engine for slowing down.

 

When downshifting give the throttle a little tap so the RPM is matched when the clutch engages.

You shouldn't move in your seat when shifting it should be perfectly matched.

 

Is your driveway uphill to get out of it onto the road? Steep driveways will kill a clutch.

 

Who told you that lol

 

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/please-explain-dfco-deceleration-fuel-cut-off-14362.html

Maybe he meant DFCO is why he thinks it would use less?

 

Pretty sure the Tacoma doesn’t employ this tech, that’s why we have an Atkinson/Otto cycle

 

No idea...

 

Needing to explain this makes me feel like this is another curious case of a burned clutch.

I’m not easy on my clutch. They’re wear out items. I don’t beat on it, but it’s not a luxury car. That said, I’ve only smelled my clutch when off road and rocking out in rutted trails in the hills.

 

Toyota replaced the clutch on my '93 at 33,000 due to chattering. At 140K it was replaced again, but only because they were doing the head gasket recall and it only cost me the part. The clutch disc itself was only half worn at 110K. I replaced it once more about another 120K later, again due to chattering. I'm not easy nor hard on a clutch. My '88 911 has about 50K on its current clutch and shows no signs of anything. You've gotta really abuse it to wear out a disc in 11K miles.

The whole throttle blipping comes from old manual transmissions without synchros where you actually had to match the engine and transmission speed or you'd grind yourself a pound for sure. And it's related to heel and toe downshifting in sports and race cars where you'd be braking hard into a corner and have to downshift in order to be in the proper gear coming out of the corner. With the ball of your foot on the brake, you push the clutch in, shift to neutral then roll the ball of your foot over to blip the throttle while still maintaining your braking, then clutch in again and shift to the lower gear and immediately to the floor on the way out of the corner. On some cars you just roll the ball of your foot over, like my 911, and on others, you actually keep the ball of your foot on the brake while rotating your heel outward and hitting the throttle with your heel.

The whole process takes a split second when you've practiced it enough to not half to think about it and on modern cars with good synchros, you don't need to double clutch, only match the speeds.

Conversely, you can easily shift up or down without using the clutch at all. Up shifting, gently put pressure on the shifter as you lift your foot off the gas. It'll pop into neutral. If your revs are matched, it'll slip right into the next gear without a sound. You'll quickly know it if you screw it up. Downshifting is the same except you have to blip the throttle and then gently push into the lower gear as the engine and tranny hit their matched revs. I don't do this on the Porsche but literally thousands of times in the 25 years I had that '93 - up until a few weeks ago. I would NOT recommend anyone try this at home but it's good to know it's very possible and if you do it right, won't hurt anything. Also good to know if your clutch ever goes out in the engaged position. You can either come up to a stop and almost stop while slipping into first and not quite stopping, or if you have to stop, you can turn the engine off then use your clutch start cancel switch to get the truck going without the clutch.

BTW, that old reliable '93 had exactly three warranty issues - the chattering clutch, leaking valve guide seals and the head gasket recall. Hope I'll be able to say something similar about the new one.

 

Starting in second or steep driveways won't toast a clutch at 11k. My guess is something to do with the master/slave cylinder. If it's not working correctly your clutch disc would constantly lose material no matter how you drive it.

 

2GR-FKS absolutely does use DFCO. If you lift in gear, AFR pegs high and there's literally no fuel flow through the injectors. You can see this with a scan app/dongle or techstream.

Auto may behave a little differently at low speed, after all it needs to stay running!

BTW this is nothing new, DFCO has been used for many years on vehicles to save gas/reduce emissions.

Edit: To be exact, M/T trucks will re-activate the injectors around 1300 rpm even when you're in gear. It can be annoying off road, and some ppl have mentioned it's not ideal when towing.. your engine braking suddenly changes.

 

I haven’t found any mention of this online. Only thing I think that even came up was with the Yaris.

Kinda makes me want to throw my multimeter or test probe on an injector and take the truck down the road

 

I tried to relate rev match down shifting to ppl in another thread a while back, the response was mixed - some asked why would you do that - are you driving a race car?

I'd rather use my engine to slow down than slipping the clutch to slow down.

Anyway, to each their own.

 

Please don't do that lol!

If you're interested in this and a shit ton of other data points, get yourself an OBD dongle and app to monitor things.

I use the Carista Bluetooth dongle and OBD Fusion app for IOS.

When reading the PID AFR Actual, it pegs at 18 whenever you lift in gear (extremely lean). 18 is the highest value the app will show for AFR. Normal is 14.5 at hot idle.

 

~27500mi on my '17 Sport and clutch is very strong. I drive it daily and tow weekly, but only have 1 stop light on my commute.

 

No.