What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yessum

 

Yes. The whole point of the push button was it was an actuator moving the tcase and ADD vs a lever you pull to move the tcase gears physically and an actuator or vacuum for the ADD.

No on Frank. Probably won't do anything to Igor the double cab. Going to put solar up there and that's it.

Chain saw is tall...I don't like tall stuff on the roof. Anything more than 4'' isn't worth it IMO.

 

From what I understand, the rear locker can only be activated in 4LO? And the gray wire mod allows you to use it in any mode, regardless of 4HI, 4LO, or 2HI?

 

Also yes

 

Put beads in the tires, added some plate to the front bumper, added tabs to the rear fenders so they don’t flap.

 

RTT is 14" over the roof line, so it isn't a big concern to me. Arizona doesn't have that many treacherous overhanging obstacles. I'll look into scabbards and other RR options. Thanks guys.

 

Yep. No electronic necessity in a j-shift. I actually have a J-shift in my factory built 2-4 truck.

 

Is there really an advantage in J-Shift ADD vs. Push-Button ADD? I don't see what the big deal is.

 

Honestly? There's not. But the argument is, no electronic motors/ one less thing to fail.

The fsm doesn't have an accurate diagnosing procedure to troubleshot the 2-4 TC nor the correct plug pin layout. The 4wd ecu needs feedback from the rear actuator to engage the front actuator afaik. I wanted to swap to a j-shift once I found out I didn't have a solid way of diagnosing the 2-4.
Also around 6 times a year. A member will post here, won't be able to engage 4x4 via their push button tc, never update a solution, and disappear into the void.

 

Manually putting it into 4wd vs electronicly is the advantage as the argument goes

 

So it's like the argument of manual windows versus power windows, then? It's a matter of convenience, preference, and the factor of reliability.

Personally, I like J-Shift simply because of the fact that it's more satisfying to shift it into 4HI than just pressing a button. I hate that most cars nowadays use a rinky-dink dial to engage 4WD. Interesting to see that the newer 4Runners still retain the physical shifter.

 

Exactly. Nailed it.

Aren't you 2wd>4wd? Seems like a pita to wire in a push button?

 

Yup. I’m a PreRunner 4x4 conversion. I wouldn’t mind doing the wiring now, but at the time I only understood how to hook up Manual Hubs.

Looking back at it, doing ADD would’ve been 100x easier and cheaper. I could’ve used easily and readily accessible ADD steering knuckles off of a 4Runner instead of spending much more on Manual Hub steering knuckles and the manual hub axle tube.

Push Buttons is difficult because of all the wiring associated with it. If I was doing ADD, I would stay J-Shift.

 

Ah. Manual hubs.

Pushbutton isn't that juge a deal without the front ADD I'd imagine. I'm not even sure you'd even fully need the 4wd ecu. What stage of the conversion are you in?

 

I’ve been long done. I completed it in December 2017/January 2018.

I just haven’t tested it on dirt yet. Besides driving it up on my curb in 4LO.

 

So your just curious about j-shift vs 2-4? Sorry, I'm not on TW a whole lot, I'm not sure what/s going on...

 

I never found a good write-up for the 4WD conversion when I was doing research for my own conversion, and as result I made a lot of mistakes and paid dearly for them. So I've been working on my own on and off for the past couple months, and I just needed to clarify some information.

 

I read about some of that.

Well, if you need wiring help, don't hesitate. And I'm up in Santa Rosa thru the summer since my camping spot in Mendocino NF will be burning to the ground in the next few days.

 

Thanks! I'm no stranger to wiring, electrical systems are actually my specialty. Before I converted to 4WD, I converted my crank windows, manual mirrors & manual locks to full motorized and actuated ones by swapping in Double Cab door harnesses and making my own retrofit system to adapt to the OEM power and signal distribution system by bypassing the integration module.

I've built a couple of these systems for other members on here, here's the latest one. Everything is OEM up to the kick panel, where my own system takes over.