SPC 25470 Upper Control Arm, '16 Tacoma

After previously debating whether I should restore my Tacoma back to stock (lifted by prev. owner), I've decided to stick with it. Alignment shop was able to get numbers into spec but said that I was at the extreme of acceptable for Caster and recommended SPC UCAs. I opted to go with that recommendation and purchased a set of 25470 UCAs. This was the exact same PN I installed on my son's 07, and it wasn't difficult to do, just needed to massage the inner fender lining a bit to allow the UCA bolt to be removed/reinstalled. Things appear to be a bit different on the '16 though, as the amount of bending required would be the equivalent of a large collision, and I'm not willing to destroy the inner fender for this process. Additionally, they are significantly reinforced in the area that would require the bending.
It appears that I can cut the bolt, maybe in several pieces as I remove it, and with a new bolt, reinstall the bolt with the head facing backwards, rather than oriented towards the front as in the stock configuration. I have pulled off my inner fender shields, and mocked up a piece of steel tubing 13 1/2" long which seems to be the length of the bolt, and looked to see if this maneuver is possible. It does appear I can re-install a new bolt with removal of hard brakeline mount points on both sides, and move the fuel lines out of the way on the driver side.
I'm curious as to whether or not anyone has done this installation in this fashion before I start cutting stuff and buying new parts, and if you did, what sort of obstacles presented themselves. Obviously the rolling chassis assembly completely takes place prior to the body going on, and I am not interested in lifting the body off the frame to do this job.

This little tool makes it real easy to remove the inner fender shields without trashing the hardware.



Bolt clearance issues obvious. Passenger side.



Driver's side



Clearance to firewall on Driver's side to reverse the bolt. Fuel lines have the blue marks on them.



I've read what I can find on this, but mainly see rather glib comments saying to just cut the bolts and install backwards, but without further elaboration on any issues associated with the reinstall process I'm reluctant to put my Truck out of action until I have all the parts on hand. I really don't care to lift the cab off the frame to do this.



Bolt mockup, with this as a rigid mockup, it appears that I should be able to thread the bolts back in from back-to-front rather than the front-to-back stock orientation.

 

That's exactly what I did. Chop the bolt to bits and install upside down.

 

better get a nylock nut and red loctite it. i've seen the nut undo itself on these trucks and i'd hate to see the bolt slide down if you're installing it backwards like that

 

Any major obstacles to doing this? Seems I'd only need to move the hard brake line by undoing the mount points on both sides, and the fuel lines on the driver's side. Anything I'm missing here?

I don't suppose belt and suspenders approach is out of line, though not sure Red thread locker is warranted along w Nylok nuts. I'm not opposed to considering thread locker, but I suppose if it seemed likely this would loosen and spin off, I would cross drill and stuff in a cotter pin, or lock-wire it. I do get your point of course. I kinda like the idea of lock wire/safety wiring it.


I did get replacement UCA pivot bolts from Toyota today, just need to figure out when to do this job so I can scoot right away to the alignment shop and not end up truck-less for a few days. Also need to dig thru my grease inventory and see if I have the right type grease loaded in at least one of my grease guns. NLGi #2 Grade LB with 3-5% Molybdenum Disulfide is specified.

 

Wtf. I’m confused. I have SPC and all I did was use channel locks to bend the inner fender out to get the bolt in and out then regent it back.

 

I just ran down and snapped a quick photo. This is where you grab and bend.

For the grease I use Valvoline General Purpose NGLI 2

 

I used vice grips for welding. I bent about 1/4” wasn’t bad. More annoying putting it all back together by myself.

 

I’ve heard stories of people installing the bolt backwards and it coming loose. I definitely wouldn’t go that route. Bend the inner fender and pull it through.

 

I bent my fender well too with welding vice grips. Passenger side was more difficult for me but def didn’t have to cut the bolt in half. Driver side almost didn’t need any bending at all.

 

I made a post awhile back asking for some help from some of the more experienced members of TW. I didn't go with SPC UCA's but went with Total Chaos. I had the same problem when I went to remove the bolt it was hitting the inner fender. Total Chaos made a YouTube video on how to remove the bolt and I had no problem bending the fender liner some but I was still unable to clear the bolt and get it out all the way. I even said the same thing, I was going to chop the bolt and install it backwards. Many TW said not to do and have heard horror stories from 2nd gen and newer 3rd gen owners doing this and advised against it. So I ended taking it to a shop and they did it not problem. I had my truck back the same day. Double check the nut on the bolt every now and then. I did some maintenance recently and noticed the drivers side was loose.

 

Mine came with grease packets. Be sure you have the updated designed ones I think have 2 less washers per side since they were known to pinch the uca bushings and squeak

 

I bent mine like this, passenger side shown below

 

Even though I bought bolts to cut them I just bent my fenders. I got some big channel locks from Harbor freight. That was easy. I just bent them back straight when done and painted them. Can't even tell I bent them especially since it is covered by the fender line.

The hardest part was getting all the crap out of the way on the back side. The drivers side was much easier for me.

 

How are you guys setting up your SPC UCAs for initial install? Did you set them up in the 0 / +2.0 position to start with?

 

http://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25480-INS_WEB.pdf

Via the instruction sheet, for Trucks w 2-3" lift they recommend initial set up in "D" configuration (0 /+2.0). Your alignment shop will adjust as needed.

We may all be missing something here. How does Toyota pull the UCA pivot bolt? As in--what do they do in the bay at the Dealership. Not having the FSM on this vehicle, it's sort of a mystery. I seriously doubt they recommend "bend TF out of the inner fender." What is it they do to obtain clearance?

 

Not seeing "bend TF out of the inner fender" in the 2016 Toyota Tacoma Service Manual. They don't say anything except "Remove the bolt, 2 washers and nut.".

I also don't see "Cut the bolt, remove it, and install it backwards"...

 

IDK How a dealership does it for fixes, but Toyota does it before they put the body on.

 

The bigger the vice grips the better. Tricky tapping it back in by yourself i agree

 

Theres a video here. @ 6:40
https://youtu.be/bbsTJgb6S_c

 

Yeah, we covered that part.