2nd gens on 37" tires

Thanks for the reply. Right now my truck will stop but I can tell it doesn't want to. I may do the ebc stage 3 for the 5th gen 4runner. I do a lot of driving around town with lots of 50-0 stops so I want to feel comfortable stopping.

 

Now that's a truck from my era. I'm still trying to figure out all this new stuff. Give me a straight axel anyday

 

Ok, so 3 out of these 16 pages were actually informal.. Lol!!! So the start of the thread, how to stuff 37's?? I'll be working on my DD, and don't want to buy 35's and want 37's, so let's get to it. I've a 1" body and 2.5 suspension (and 1/4" top mount spacers) roughly 3" susp.... I need to trim fenders, cab mount chop, 50lb.hammer-time. This on a 2013 Tacoma 4wd automatic. Would 4.88 gearing be sufficient for highway??

 

Yeah 4.88 would be good. You’re gonna have to tub the fire walk most likely. Also be prepared for inner tie rods to blow, cvs, 3rd members.

 

To be honest you’ll need to do a lot more than a CMC to clear 37’s.
Total Chaos +2 LT in the front and a upgraded rear axle is the only way I’d consider going to 37’s.
I’ve put a LOT of thought into it.

I’m not saying it can’t be done. Just ask @Paint6it9black he recently went to 37’s.

 

I understand it's doable, but I know I'm not alone here. So now, the final question I guess?? Will 35's be more beneficial with less cost in the long run than 37's and replacing parts?? Minus the increased price of bigger tires?? Seems like 35's for me, on 18x9 or 10's will suffice. 4.56 with 35's then??

 

Most with auto go with 4.88 and 35’s
From a durability standpoint I feel 35’s is the max for the stock drivetrain components.
I’ve been on 35’s for several years and only just recently broke a CV on the trail.
Also made it 5 years on the rear diff before blowing one.

You’ll still break shit with 35’s just maybe not as much.

 

Awesome straight up legit answers from awesome Taco-Lovers as myself in an awesomely timely manner, on an awesome forum.... Hell yeah my Bros of the Taco!!! Thanks again.

 

Glad to assist.

 

I've been running 37s for 4 years now. Only blew one rear end and that was due to the Detroit locker carrier breaking in half (8.4 diff). I also had 37s on stock length control arms and a 3.5 long travel kit. Only broke one CV on the stock length. I have found the less lift you run the longer your CV axles last, keeping them level makes them stronger. (I'm lifted 1.5 inches).

Not saying 37s are for everyone because it is a lot of work, but it can be done.

 

So true he had to say it twice.

 

I haven't broken anything yet either......(knock on wood).

 

2nd gens can handle 37s easy. Just drive accordingly and be smart. I didn’t break a single part on 37s. Rubicon, dusy, loads of local wheeling.


Also it looks fucking cool

 

Just do the Cab mount relocate

 

I tried to just cut the cab mount back as far as possible and noticed it started to droop. I ended up doing the cab mount relocate.

 

Bc 37’s, that’s why.

 

Needs moar slider...

 

I will say more lift helps clear the tires but the more you lift it the faster the front end wears out and with 37's thats fast. I replaced cv's back in December right before I went to 37's and have already blown 1. I do have a drop bracket but cv angle is about that of a 3-3.5 inch lift. Also my tie rods and ball joints are shot but I cannot blame that on the 37's because its an old truck and all those parts had lots of miles before 37's. The truck is a mall crawler and has tons of negative offset so that wide stance is likely the culprit. My $.02 is that it can be done with a basic 3" lift and lots of cutting but you'll be better off going LT and keeping as little lift as possible. 1.5" like @Robertocritser would be ideal.

 

Like @Spoonman said you have to wheel smarter. It's a game changer though for sure and way more pros than cons.