How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

I gave a lot of credit to the information i found in this notes file plus there are many youtube video's on changing plugs on the 4.0. So i went in knowing what tools and what needed to be removed. if i get my son involved next change with each of us doing a side i am thinking 30 minutes in total.

 

And if you do that, it'll take another 2 1/2 hours watching the videos with your son to get him up to speed before you start.

 

Had a deal on EBay for spark plugs(Toyota #90919-01235) fall thru at the last minute. I missed another deal as a result.
After more searching by google, I found a Toyota place I wanted to share.
http://www.sullivanbrostoyotaaccessories.com/

The plugs were $3.30/ plug with free S&H and no tax. I bought 12. It turned out to be better than the two other deals. A bit of frustration, but the outcome was good. This was Toyota employee pricing. A bonus was good customer service.

 

Big shout out to this post. Helped me change my spark plugs. Took my time, and so far everything went nearly exactly as described. I watched a few youtube videos for sanity (because I had them changed on a Honda when I was younger and I think the charge was like $350…).

Here the aftermath of 100k mi og spark plugs. I know I know, every 30k




Scary moment, since this was my first time to change spark plugs, when I started the truck, it shut off on me. Did a double check, started it again, and so far, no issues.

 

Juat did my plugs, at 113k i pulled half NGK and half Denso out and I honestly dont know how my truck was running with no issues. The electrodes were literally gone. Previous owner had dealer do all maintenance up untill i got the truck at 100k. I dont think they ever changed the plugs like they stated they did.

 

Mine did the exact same thing. Started right up, ran for 3 seconds and died as if you turned the truck off. I had pulled the neg battery cable, so I assumed that was it. Cranked it again, ran fine, no codes, no problems 2k miles later. If you had an issue it would show up quickly.

 

gotcha. Still..... a huge panic moment for me. I checked, and i have no check engine light / maintenance light.... (knock on wood). But all in all i enjoyed working on the truck. Saved a good chunk of change.

Now all i need to do is service the rear diff (more nervous on how bad it is), and then radiator flush, brakes, etc. Never ends after 100k mi. lol

 

i did my rear diff lube change at 10,000 miles.. glad i did because the lube came out quite shiny with all the metal particles in there.. I did the front and transfer case as well since i had the lube and was under the truck anyway but the lube looked like new so it was overkill... i also installed gold plug stainless magnetic drain plugs in everything including the engine oil drain plug and transmission drain plug. cant help it, i am a fan of stainless, even my side steps/running boards are stainless... would love to find stainless lugs nuts but no luck so far...

 

The first time I changed the plugs, I purchased online from source I found here on tw.
This time, I checked my toyota dealer and found out I can order online at a discount and pick up at the dealer. Total is cheaper than online price I got previously, even with tax, and I have the plugs right away. Walk in buying at dealer is MSRP, no discount.
I have bought other oem parts from the dealer this way, and it is usually cheaper or about the same price getting online.
so it might be worth checking your dealer's online parts store. shop around.

 

Looks like my weekend activity is going to be plugs.

 

Now that is something that I was not aware of. Will definitely check that out. Yes, walking up to the parts counter and buying(even with a 15% discount) is usually more costly. The plugs that I ordered from Sullivan Toyota were the best deal by far that I found. It will be interesting to see what my dealer(s) here in Houston would offer.

 

How often should the coils be replaced?

 

Huge thanks to OP and Taco World. I did my plugs today, pulled out 6 Denso plugs so I guess the dealership did change them like they charged me for

One of the plugs was a little oily, not sure what’s up with that. All them gapped in the mid 40 thousandths.

When I started the truck, it immediately shut off but seems to be running fine now. Probably the computer resetting after hooking the battery back up.

 

Mine did the same thing. It's been two weeks and haven't had any issues....yet. (Knock on wood)

 

Bought 6 today from my local dealer for $22.980 out the door; that's $3.83 each.

 

Excellent write up OP! How is this not a sticky??

 

Just did this. Excellent write up. Everything went well until I got to the driver side. I was using a super old spark plug socket. The rubber grommet iside the socket came off came off and when I tried to insert the ignition coil it wouldn’t seat properly. This essentially lodged the grommet down around the plug and the socket could not engage the plug. It would just spin. What a major PIA. Long story short, I put a DE blade inside the socket to see if I could cut away the grommet and it worked! For the most part anyway. I still needed to pick at the remainder of the rubber, but I got it all out. I went to oreilly and got a magnetic socket. No more rubber. Other than that, it went smoothly.

 

Hey guys.

I'm doing my plugs for the second time. I used anti-seize the first time. When I pulled out my 1st plug today it fought me all of the way out.

Below is what I use. Hi-temp. I use it on my wheels lugs as well and those spin off no problems.

Should I forgo the seize for the new plugs? Maybe get a different brand of seize? Thoughts anyone?

 

Pick of thos little bastards that fought me on passenger side

 

Denso and NGK actually say not to use antiseize. I, however, still use a small dab of that exact type, and have not had any issues over 3 different Toyotas.

Also remember that antisieze will affect torque values. On the spark plug, the torque is needed to crush the washer. It looks like you used a lot of antisieze, and you have have effectively over-torqued the plugs last time.

Unless it had been in there a very long time, not sure why it would fight you unless there is damage to the threads or there is a lot of fouling. I'd at least chase the head threads with a new plug, no antiseize, a few times to see if you can clean up the head threads a bit before committing to the final install and torque. If that doesn't' make it smoother, get a real thread chaser to clean it up.

But why in gods name you'd use antiseze on your lug nuts is beyond me. That seems very unsafe.