Long Travel BS Thread

If you keep the stock axle then it stays and works fine. Not sure about aftermarket axles though.

 

Do a lot of guys cut the rear light pocket out of their bedsides so it can be removed easily as a panel without removing tail lights, bumper, etc?

Thinking of cutting along that line and making a bracket for a couple fender washers further forward.

The difficult part I’m trying to imagine is how to secure the tail lights better since they only attach via too screws. Bend up a bracket and Velcro?

 

Maybe @dirt addiction can get you a pic of his setup. I saw it last weekend and it was slick and simple. I plan on doing something like his at some point.

 

That would be great. Best inspiration I’ve had so far is...

 

My stock parking brake is still hooked up and functional with links

 

@dirt designs cut the OEM mounts off the rear fendersffor the lights out, then made brackets to hold it up. I can remove my bedsides and the lights stay in. I'll try to get some pics when I get my truck back

 

Well crap. I was planning on sending them a set of King coilovers to rebuild. Anyone have any other suggestions, closer to the east coast would be awesome but I know it's a stretch.

 

Rebuilding shocks is not at all hard. Dealing with the spring on a coilover is a bit of work, but unless something is seriously wrong it's an easy project.

What do you need done? Just gaskets and oil, or revalveing too?

 

Well frankly I don't know much about working on shocks. I tried removing the coils with some of those Auto Zone death traps and my impact didn't have enough torque to get them compressed enough. I know I need new resi hoses and a rebuild as well as new rod ends. Shouldn't need a revalve but I honestly wouldn't know even if they did need it.

 

After you get the coils off at a place with a good spring compressor, check out this video - it is basically all there is:

 

I didn’t notch the frame

 

I built mounts. Just unscrewed plastic retainers and got bolts with same pitch, used tubing capped off with a hole in it. Takes 15 minutes to pull bedsides now

 

Awesome, and you’ve definitely proven that stands up to the test. I’ll get on that tomorrow, thank you.

Yeah, I salvaged those pieces off the bedsides (if we’re thinking of the same thing). They’re the vertical pieces that have all the captured nuts the bed gate hardware mounts to, correct?
I was running no bedsides for a while with the lights attached by the two mounting points until they were flapping in the breeze driving down the turnpike.

 

Anyone?

 

DC shock services San Dimas California 626 252 3566 West coast

 

The rack fits without cutting the feame, however the boots don't. If youre not worried about sucking dirt and mud into the rack it's not required.

Or if you've solved the boot problem another way please share with the rest of the class

 

If you can get the parts I can rebuild them for you. Or you can pay me to find the parts

 

I have boots on mine

 

What kind on inner tie rod are you using?

 

Solo’s billet Setup. Your the first guy I’ve heard say this. I’ve personally seen the two trucks solo did this on, and they didn’t do it your way either. I didn’t even come close to having to notch. Not sure how putting on a boot or not would dictate notching the frame or not. We’re talking maybe 2/16ths of an inch