5spd Bleeding Clutch Need Help

I'm curious about the adjustment at the master cyl pushrod. Where is the adjustment nut? Is it extended all the way to the end of the threads, or in the middle somewhere?

Back up to the first post. Before you touched anything, you said the clutch was grabbing up high, close to the dashboard. This is usally an indication that the clutch disc is getting thin. The pushrod nut isn't really there to be adjusted. The hydraulics aren't going to "go out of adjustment" on their own. They either leak (and the pedal goes to the floor) or you have a clutch problem.

You may have caused more confusion by messing with the adjustment first. I would try to get it Back close to where it was at the beginning and then try bleed it again.

 

Its somewhere in the middle right now. I just let all the air out of the front tires, jacked up the rear end and im gravity bleeding it right now. Hopefully something works really dont want to start replacing parts

It was grabbing up higher after i adjusted it because the adjustment lock nut came loose during a 3000 mile road trip. Before that it was driving like normal, grabbing 25%-40% from the floor.
I dont think the clutch is worn out, even though its lived a hard life, its only got 40k on it. I got 200k out of the last one and it still wasnt slipping.

I am going to adjust it back closer to where it was and then bleed it again. Looking back, i never should have messed with the adjustment. Major screw up on my part

 

Thank you again to everyone who posted up in here! Got the clutch bled at last. As some of yall suspected, it was partially a push rod adjustment issue, but i think what was giving me the most issues was the fact that the bleeder was leaking around the threads. Put some teflon tape on it and backbled everything using the brakes. Then when i got the pedal back to about 60% pressure, i adjusted the pushrod and got it back to where it was before i started this whole mess. Clutch pedal still engages at almost the top of the pedal throw, so im assuming my clutch is nearing the end of it's life.

It's folks like yall that make this forum great, and help attract new members. Thanks TW fam!

 

OP =

Me =

 

Glad it got sorted!!

 

Me too man! Thanks again bud!

 

I recently replaced slave cylinder, TOB, clutch. Now my clutch pedal is leaking at the master cylinder. I think I need to replace that too. A lot of fluid leaking on my floor mat from the clutch pedal. Can anyone recommend a replacement master cylinder? Having a hard time deciding what to order. A link would be helpful. Thanks!

 

Is your truck a 6 speed, or 5 speed?

Might be a stupid question, but looks like you have a 6spd trd sport in your pic.

From what ive read, it seems like most people are rebuilding the clutch master with an OEM rebuild kit. I dont know of many aftermarket options that are quality

Edit: i think the 5 and 6 speeds share the same clutch master

 

Thanks.

6 speed. Wouldn't know whether 5 and 6 speed are the same. Most aftermarket options are $40-$60. Which makes me think they aren't great quality. Or maybe I'm just getting ripped off paying $120+ for OEM......

 

Yeah i personally would go with oem if you can afford it. Might keep you from ending up on the side of the road stranded later on

 

@rjbiii has good advice, if you can afford it go OEM. These trucks hold their resale value. Even more so if you're using OEM stuff. 60 bucks gets used up quick on the back of a tow truck.

On my 2011 the clutch pedal squeaked. I got it replaced under warranty at the dealer. Not sure if your 07 is covered but there is probably an updated design m/c available at the dealer.

 

The pushrod assembly inside the cab started leaking today.. i think that could be part of the reason as to why it was so difficult for me to bleed the clutch pedal recently. Does anyone have an oem rebuild kit part number, or do yall recommend just replacing the whole assembly?

Also ive read that it can sometimes require bench bleeding to get all the air out, any tips or a write up on this? I feel like my truck is on borrowed time, and since my other truck is out of commission, id like to address this problem before it leaves me stranded on the side of the road

 

Use a bench bleeder kit. you can make one with a short piece of brake line/fitting and some vacuum line.

Or just skip the kit and stroke it a few times while pouring fluid in slowly. The clutch master went really fight you because it only has one line coming off it. It's the brake master cylinders with multiple lines that can bite you if you don't bench bleed them carefully.

Once it's back in the truck then you know what to do

 

Good tip, ill probably go this route

 

Was able to track down the part numbers for the clutch master cylinder (pushrod assembly), and was wondering if any of you folks knew if they were interchangeable between year models? From my research, i think the 13-15 is a TSB revised # to address the squeaky clutch pedal. Would like to put the 13-15 part in there if it's compatible.. Anyone have any info on this?

'05-'12: 31420-04011
'13-'15: 31420-04020

 

Someone just recently wanted to update their truck to the newer non squeek version. You have to replace the pedal and some other stuff. I think it was about $300 for all the parts.

 

Good to know, thanks for the heads up

 

@Muddinfun is correct. When my 2011 had the updated clutch master installed to address the squeak, it was a big assembly with a pedal and master cyl all mounted on a big bracket

 

Think ill just stick with the old style one. Not too worried about the squeaky pedal. My '13 6spd has the updated assembly, and it still squeaks