Wheel bearing - inner oil seal?

Is there an inner oil seal that goes on the wheel bearing - knuckle side?

Changing my wheel bearing and hub assembly. My old wheel bearing did not have an inner oil seal, but the Toyota schematics show one.
Also, I bought an "inner oil seal" off Rockauto, but it's too big to fit on the bearing.

I am not talking about the O-ring that goes on the bearing. I have that.

What's going on here?

I put the wheel bearing up to the knuckle for illustration purposes. I know the dust shield goes in between.

 

@05Taco4x4

 

The inner seal goes in from the back side of the knuckle, and the CV joint stub shaft turns inside the seal.

 

Yep

 

nevermind saw your finger was pointing at something else.

 

How you have it in the photo is correct

 

You guys got it

 

Thanks for the replies. Helped me figure it out even though the schematic was a bit confusing.
I was pretty thrown off because I pulled the old bearing off and found this


I know these bearings are known to fail, but looks like mine had a darn good reason. A definite pry mark on that CV shaft seal. The inside of my knuckle was pretty nasty.
I pulled the bearing off, and it had a section of seal spring on it. I guess the rest of it rusted away. The inside was totally dry and reeked of burnt axle grease

The good pairs of gloves keep disappearing

 

You have a new seal to go on that CV? I forget why but I definitely remember having a problem finding that seal when I did mine. If I recall correctly, I purchased a whole new CV, pulled the seal off, and returned the CV to AutoZone

 

I didn't have a new seal actually...
Tough choice, but not many options.
Just one of those things that never even occurs to you, then it happens, and you don't have any options.

I did the work in my friend's driveway. Everything goes smoothly. Caliper bolts came off easy. Axle nut was smooth. The 4 bearing bolts were cake. Pull the bearing off - 'OMG. This is so nasty!! Where's all my axle lube...? No wonder it was so bad!'
Look around back at the bent CV seal - ".....oh."
Already 3 hours deep in a "2 hour job" and it's 9pm. Can't leave the truck there overnight in his driveway, no wheel, no hub, knuckle unbolted, CV shaft flopping about.
Like you said - hard to even find that particular oil seal. Advance Auto's website didn't have any such seal, and the employees there wouldn't understand my alien babble if I tried to ask for one. It could have been easily ordered from the dealer, but...need it Friday night, order it Saturday, it'll be there Tuesday afternoon so...

I sanded and cleaned up all the rust in the knuckle and threw a bunch of axle grease in there. I had bought a new "inner oil seal" off Rockauto (the seal that goes on the knuckle, CV side), so I just used the spring off that seal and put it on the CV seal, since that spring had broken. I coated all the seal surfaces with axle grease to catch dirt/dust and have a 'buffer' for moisture.
I put everything back together then bent the CV seal back. So hopefully it won't be such a vulnerability.

The other thing was in order to replace the CV seal you have to remove the knuckle, which I did not need to do for just the wheel bearing. Unbolting the knuckle was a large amount of additional work I wasn't interested in

 

Some of those seals are dealer only, or were when I did a wheel bearing a few years ago. I have all the part numbers, OEM and aftermarket, written down in my Haines manual. I remember there was one seal that was dealer only.

 

Good point as well. I just looked it up on Rockauto, and they do have an "Axle shaft seal" listed for sale in the drivetrain section, but pretty hard to know 100% for sure if it's the one you need.

At this point, it's kinda some nonsense. I got most of the parts off Rockauto - spindle, the bearing, inner and outer oil seals, but I still needed the O-ring, and 4 bearing bolts.
A Toyota dealership online had everything for $13 + $8 shipping. Eh...what if I could skip the shipping and buy locally? My local dealer wanted $9 per bolt, and $11 for the O-ring for a grand total of $50. What a joke.

 

The o-ring I'm not familiar with the part number. Bought wheel bearings from one of the vendors here that sells them. @BamaToy1997. I think he includes the o-ring with the order. He would have the correct part numbers.

 

O-Ring is 90301-A0005
I bought it from a dealer online, no issue. Like $3 I think.

 

The seal on end of CV is dealer only, I would include it with my bearing kit if I could get for a reasonable price

 

Thanks op for posting, and others for helping to clear this up. Was getting ready to do my hubs /bearings I ordered from here & I saw the same schematic last week. Thought I was missing something. The diagram is confusing.

 

I hear you man, seems like every truck project I do that I think I should be about a 30 minute project turns into a 2 hour process. But I usually manage to things done one way or another. But I think that’s the problem I ran into with the seal. Although I had done my research and tried to order all seals and parts I needed ahead of time, once I got in there I realized I still needed those seals. I think I damaged one during disassembly, thinking I had the replacement already, but found out the hard way I did not. I did not have time to wait for the dealer to get me the seal as it is my daily driver and it was a weekend project. I think that’s where the new CV axles came in which included the seal, the only way to get one aftermarket. Sounds like you did the best you could with that seal, hopefully no issues.

 

yep. For sure.
They really drew this one wrong. In pretty much every schematic I've seen, they would draw a line over to the knuckle, indicating the assembly order.
oh well

 

How do I remove the Oil and Dust seals I have the spindles off but the CVs still in.

 

There are seal puller and seal driver tools.

If your seals are in good shape just leave them be. Lubricate the seal running surfaces with NLGI gr 2 grease and continue with assembly.