Timing Chain P0018 P0302,304,306

This is with the crank at zero. Both chains seem tight on both sides and I don’t see any damages. But none of the green tick marks line up at all. Any idea of what actually happened to the chain? Is it just stretched possibly? I’m gonna continue tearing down the motor

 

That thing is a shitbox. Same with the jeep pentastar 3.6

 

I don't know about the 4.0 but usually once you time an engine and spin it around once, the timing marks don't line up anymore.

What's with the actuator in the 3rd pic down? Looks like there's a piece broken off.

 

Passenger side (bank 1) cams are right on the money. The bank 1 intake cam aligns with the indented mark on the bearing cap as shown in the procedure I linked...not the raised mark on the bearing cap.

Driver side (bank 2) cams are off by 1 tooth on both the intake & exhaust sprockets...the short chain didn't jump, your big #1 chain did. Re-timing the #1 chain on the intake cam will correct both. There's a procedure to "inchworm" the chain back into place, I'll dig it up and post it.

The big question is how it happened...was it making any rattling noises while running?

edit: here's the entire thread on the FJ forum, read the whole thing including his "inch worm" process to skip his intake cam back one tooth.

https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/for...0016-timing-chain-stretch-skip-pix-solve.html

 

Shit you’re exactly right. Not even sure what to do now knowing that’s broken off. Next step?

 

Craigs1 it didn’t make any rattling noises. After I replaced the idler pullys it was quiet as can be. I just can’t believe that piece broke off. Just curious if I need to go ahead and order a new chain and throw it on. Just let me know what your next step would be and I’ll jump on it ASAP

 

Read the FJCruiser link I posted, all pages, while I ponder. This is an odd failure.

 

Did the dealership have the valve covers off or just the inspection cover? Any pry marks anywhere? No reason a tech would pry there but not the first time someone does something retarded.

 

The dealership just ran diagnostics and didn’t pop the covers off at all or else that would have been another chunk of cash gone. If I can figure out what that piece is called that is broken then it looks easy to replace. My main concern is if I should just go ahead and replace the chain or try that inchworm process.

 

The chain isn't stretched enough to need replacing, unless you end up pulling off the timing cover in which case it's an easy "while you're in there" project.

How the timing wheel got broken is a mystery, and if the broken piece(s) are still inside the engine you'll want to get them out...timing cover comes off. On the other hand, as Pickeledpigsfeet asked, if the dealer tech had the valve cover off and broke them, you'll want to find out where the broken pieces went. Check your receipt to see if they had the valve cover(s) off, and talk to the service dept in the morning.

You'll need a 24mm wrench (long overall length is best) for turning the cams manually. Crescent wrench as the shop manual shows is not advisable.

That timing wheel is pressed into the VVT actuator/sprocket assembly and they're replaced as a single unit. $180 for the Toyota part at wholesale if memory serves. There are aftermarket chinese ones if money is really tight.

My next step would be to remove the #1 chain tensioner *carefully*, stuff a shop rag under it inside the timing cover to prevent the bolts or tensioner from falling inside the engine. You can rotate the intake cam backwards just a tiny bit to introduce slack in the timing chain, making the tensioner easier to remove. You can then examine the tensioner ratchet mechanism, and the teeth on the plunger, to see if it failed. The little pivot plate rotates upward to unlock the ratchet, you can slide a plastic tube from a spray can into it and the hole to lock the ratchet open.

For inspection of the tensioner, I'd unlock the ratchet and press the plunger all the way in, then release the ratchet while holding the plunger in. Then gently let the plunger extend outward, one tooth at a time, and press back in to verify the ratchet locks. You can also let the plunger fully extend, and examine the ratchet teeth for any that are broken or otherwise damaged.

 

Below is a pic of my engine w/ the timing cover off, when I replaced the chains/sprockets/guides/tensioners last month. Look down from the tops of each bank, and examine the black nylon guides on the inboard sides just below the intake cams. Basically make sure they're still there and didn't break off.

Then look down the outboard side of bank 2 (driver side) intake cam to verify the metal guiderail and nylon slider is still there.

Also look around hard for the broken piece(s) of that timing reluctor wheel...you might be able to fish them out with a magnet and avoid removing the timing cover.

The intake cam VVT actuator/sprocket can be removed and replaced without removing the timing cover, it's in that shop manual link. Need a 17mm offset box wrench, no space for a socket. Also need the 24mm open-end wrench I listed earlier to hold & rotate the cam.

 

Craigs1 I’ll be working on all that you proposed. I don’t understand every little bit of it but I’ll do my best to work through it and figure it out. You’ve already been an incredible help and I can’t thank you enough. Further question, does it look like my timing cover is leaking down near the crank where it’s all wet?

 

This is right above the power steering pump where the timing cover meets the engine. I’m afraid I’m going to have dive in on this one

 

Yup, that's a common leak on the 1GR-FE engine. There was a tech service bulletin issued on it:

https://toyota.oemdtc.com/TSB/EG049-07.pdf

From the shop manual link I posted earlier, see step # 31 of this procedure to remove the #1 chain tensioner:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/007002.pdf

Keep us posted on your findings.

 

Interested in this thread. Should a timing chain be replaced after a certain number of miles even if one is not having issues on the Tacoma's ? I prefer to be proactive but don't want to fix what isn't broke. Just wondering. Thanks in advance.

2005 Tacoma Pre Runner 4L V6. Miles 441045.

 

@NECyclone Craigs1 is pretty much the master mind that will give an excellent answer for you, but I would recommend it at that amount of miles. The job itself is rather a nightmare in my own opinion but that’s only because this is my first time going this deep in a motor. One way or another, just make sure you’re ready for it and have all the appropriate parts ordered and a clear head as well as taking some time to watch the video posted on YouTube. I’m dealing with it right now and it is quite a bear.

 

Take the tensioner inspection plate off and look at the plunger depth like @craigs1 was talking about. That will offer a window on the timing chain health and you'll know if something needs to be done.

 

Isn't the timing chain "good for life"?

 

When I say proactive, it's in the sense that I'm just going to be paying for it. . I don't have the tools, time, or knowledge to do what you're doing. I suspect a timing chain job is going to be $1500 ish or more. But that's still cheaper than having to go buy a newer truck. Was hoping this thing could go to 600-700000 miles but realize one has to help it get there. Just replaced the Alternator 2 weeks ago. It was the original. Lousy alternator only went 440000 plus miles. ;-) It's just when I saw this timing chain thread I was thinking in the back of my mind that I should be considering having this done.

 

I'll have to have my mechanic do this when I take it in in another month to go through (stuff). Thanks for the info guys.