5spd Bleeding Clutch Need Help

Anyone here know if the SST listed in the FSM below is needed to replace the clutch master cylinder, or can I get away with using a couple of 10mm open end/ratcheting wrenches? Curious what the SST even does..

Edit: looks like the SST is just a way to use a torque wrench on the 10mm nut..

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/02900610.pdf

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/029001.pdf

 

That's just a (brake) line wrench, commonly referred to as a "crow's foot".

If the brake line fittings are not over-torqued, a basic open end 10mm wrench will be fine.

 

Thats what i figured, thanks man

 

Its kinda funny how all those toyota service manuals have the guy holding some t-bar in all the pictures! It's like they're stuck in the 1950s or something

 

I agree! Took me a while to figure out what the sst was for because i didnt know what the hell it was attahed to.. finally made more sense after i put those two together

 

Can anyone here please help? I am trying to replace my clutch master and the stupid fitting on the hard line doesnt want to thread into the master. Ive fought this thing for several hours now, and have gotten no where.. any advice?

 

Anyone know if this grease is okay to use on the TOB and clutch fork? My clutch kit didnt come with high temp grease, and im trying to figure out what's good to use now

 

Dont see how it would hurt, it's probably fine. You're talking about the contact points where the fork pushes in the TOB?

 

Yes, the points on the clutch fork, and i was also going to pack the TOB with it and then just a very small amount on the transmission input shaft

 

IMO dont get too carried away. Just a little dab here and there. Too much grease will become a magnet for clutch material and gum things up.

I wouldn't put any in the bearing, centrifugal force is just gonna fling it out of there and then it can contaminate the disc and clamping surfaces.
Honestly I've never put any on the fork fingers either. Just a little on the splines of the input shaft and some in the pivot/socket halfway up the fork.

Notice how they dont really use grease everywhere when they put em together at the factory. It just attracts dirt and clutch material

 

Sounds good, I will go easy with it..

Do you have any tips on getting the trans separated from the motor? I have been battling this for a few hours now, and it seems to be hung up on something.. I think its the alignment dowels

 

Get a screwdriver or pry bar in between and gently work it apart. If it's super frozen use a putty knife and tap it in with a hammer to get it started

 

Thanks, will give this a go later this evening. Im thinking it has to budge at some point. Just gonna keep fighting it

 

Keeping the system sealed. I unbolted the slave and the bracket, let it dangle down under the truck with the bleeder at the top. Leave it closed at this point. On to the master. After unhooking everything in the cab, I made enough room to remove the MC from the fire wall. Unbolt and pull the MC plunger out to the engine compartment. Place the end of the plunger where the fire wall meets the wheel well. Fill with as much fluid as you can and pump, keeping the MC at about a 45deg with the plunger on the downside. When you stop seeing air bubbles coming up, top off with fluid. Go back to your dangling Slave cylinder and open the bleed valve a few good turns. You should have a good flow at this point. Keep it open and refill the reservoir. Back at the slave cylinder, tilt it back and forth to get the bubbles out of it. Let it flow a few reservoirs worth and close the bleeder. Put it all back together. I felt your pain for two days with this hydraulic system after doing my first engine swap. Couldn’t get to sleep until I got this off my brain.

 

Here's a revised step-by-step process for bleeding a hydraulic clutch system, based on your description and integrating information from web sources:

### Step-by-Step Hydraulic Clutch Bleed Procedure:

1. **Preparation:**
- **Safety First:** Ensure the vehicle is securely supported on jack stands with the parking brake on.
- **Tools Needed:** Wrench for the slave cylinder bleeder screw, clutch fluid (check your vehicle's manual for the correct type, usually DOT 3 or DOT 4), plastic tubing, container for old fluid, and safety glasses.

2. **Disassemble the System for Bleeding:**
- **Slave Cylinder:** Unbolt the slave cylinder and its bracket, allowing it to hang down under the vehicle with the bleeder valve at the top. Keep the bleeder valve closed at this point.
- **Master Cylinder (MC):** Inside the cab, disconnect all connections to the MC. Remove the MC from the firewall. Pull the plunger out to the engine compartment.

3. **Bleeding the Master Cylinder:**
- **Positioning:** Place the end of the MC plunger where the firewall meets the wheel well.
- **Fill with Fluid:** Pour clutch fluid into the MC reservoir until it's nearly full.
- **Angle and Pump:** Hold the MC at approximately a 45-degree angle with the plunger on the lower side. Begin pumping the plunger. Keep pumping until you no longer see air bubbles coming up through the fluid.
- **Top Off:** Once bubbles are gone, top off the reservoir with more fluid.

4. **Bleeding the Slave Cylinder:**
- **Open Bleeder Valve:** Return to the slave cylinder, now dangling, and open the bleeder valve several turns. Fluid should start flowing out due to gravity.
- **Refill Reservoir:** While the fluid is flowing, occasionally check and refill the MC reservoir to prevent air from re-entering the system.
- **Removing Air Pockets:** Gently tilt the slave cylinder back and forth to help dislodge any air bubbles trapped inside.
- **Continue Flow:** Allow fluid to flow through the system for several reservoir refills or until you see a steady, bubble-free stream of fluid.

5. **Closing the System:**
- **Close Bleeder Valve:** After ensuring no more air bubbles are present, close the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Avoid over-tightening.
- **Reinstallation:** Reattach the slave cylinder, secure it back to the transmission, and reinstall the master cylinder in the cab, reconnecting all necessary components.

6. **Final Check:**
- **Inspect for Leaks:** Once everything is reassembled, check for any leaks at connections.
- **Test the Clutch:** Start the vehicle, depress and release the clutch several times. The pedal should feel firm. If it's spongy, you might need to repeat the bleeding process.

7. **Post-Bleeding:**
- Ensure all fluid levels are correct, and clean up any spilled brake fluid as it can damage paint and other surfaces.

This method leverages gravity and manual bleeding to remove air from the system without fully draining it, aiming to make the process more efficient. Remember, if the clutch still feels spongy or doesn't engage properly after this procedure, you might need to check for leaks or consider that there might still be air in the system, necessitating further bleeding or professional inspection.