Tacoma with lift and 33s kicking at start

Just recently lifted my 2018 tacoma. 6in lift with 33s. I notice if I push it at take off there is what seems like a kick or something coming from the rear tires. Anyone know what this could be?
If I take off slow, nothing, it’s fine.
It’s only when I press it and it last maybe 2 seconds and that’s it.
It never happened until I got the lift this week.
Any help is appreciated.

 

What do you mean by "kick"?

 

I’m not quite sure how to describe it. It’s like a kick or feels like the back tires are slipping or vibrations.

 

Sound like a bit of axle-wrap. How are your rear driveline angles?

 

Hey fellas......I know there’s some suspension and lift experts here. Can anyone help out our new member better than I can? I’m pretty sure this is the classic axle wrap under power, but I’ve never felt it 1st hand.

 

Anything helps guys. It’s a brand new 2018. 8000 miles on it. The lift was done this past week.

 

It helps knowing how the lift was done, especially the rear.

 

Rear blocks?

 

Truck looks great!


Now, with 6" lift it's safe to assume that you have a ~6 inch blocks between your rear leafs and the axle. If that's the case, then all of above guesses would make perfect sense. You're experiencing Axle wrap...

 

Sounds like what you really need is to go spring-under-axle... You could forget about any axle wrap issues that way!

 

While researching videos of axle wrap i came across this one:
https://youtu.be/gW-24P4AkCw

As much as this is a sales pitch, I wonder if that kind of a system would help in Op's (and others) situation

 

I have some experience with one of those, they work relatively well at eliminating axle wrap but apparently if you drive too aggressively they can break, as they are meant for towing and regular driving

 

I prefer to follow the premise of Occam's razor, that being that the simplest solution will ultimately be the best one too. Seems to me adding another spring on top of my leaf spring to spring the spring (or get it sprung ) is not the simplest solution in comparison to just having the leaf springs arranged in a way that doesn't allow axle wrap in the first place, IE no more of this: in favor of this: No more axle on a u-bolt below the spring to be used as a lever to torque and bend the springs, now the whole axle is just supported by the spring and only moves when the spring moves instead of being influenced in a significant way by the weight of the tires/force of their movement

 

Doesn't necessarily need to be spring under axle, just not have a six inch block causing geometry issues.

Original is on left. Accelerating has the axle pushing inline with the spring leaves (I'm sure the driveline angle, front spring mount, all figure in but keeping this simple). There is probably less than three inches from the longest spring leaf to the axle centerline. Correct if I'm wrong.

Lifted is on the right. Adding a six inch block now means 9 (estimated again) inches or triple the distance between axle center line and the leaf that mounts to the frame. If I remember my physics right (I don't but this is probably pretty close) there is 9 (distance tripled = 3x3x3) times as much leverage able to bend the front half of the spring, and it is no longer pushing forward but at an angle, and trying to pivot at the center of the leaf. Because the diff is open, this is able to go from one wheel to another.

Best way is with springs that have more arch and capacity. Longer rear shackles are not springs with more arch. Stiffer shocks & some sort of track bar might be a good idea, since no matter what is going on, you are moving geometry around. This changes the behavior of the vehicle, and you have to manage that.

 

Axle wrap. Solution is one of three choices:
1. Accelerate slower and stop smoother.
2. Remove 6" and replace with 2"-3"
3. Modify rear suspension, for example going to a four link...

Sorry man. Going for that kind of look is going to cost you in performance and dollars.

 

May want to get a pair of leafs to jack the back up 2-3” and then use a smaller block.
If you dont feel like doing a bunch of mods, etc(shavkle relocate, 4 link etc.)

 

I have the 6 inch Rough Country on my 2015 Double cab, my lift came with the 4 inch block, not a 6 due to the leveling factor we're the rear ride a bit higher when stock. I had to shim my carrier bearing about another 3/8 of an inch and had no trouble after that. I also have a Tuff Country add a leaf. And I added the rear ride rite air bags later as well. Just try to add a washer with the drop barcket on the carrier bearing first.

 

Have you brought it back to who ever installed it? Something could be loose as well.