Turbo BS Thread

Any of you guys running a turbski and a snorkel? Working construction and driving around on the job is killing my filters.


Wondering if I can close the intake from the fender and open my deckplate to see how much dust kicks up in the engine bay, might not even get a snorkel

 

@mnovak , this is what I was referring to.

 

That's the exact result I had when I went with the LCE Dual Comp clutch... Pedal was easier and more consistent. About 7k on it so far, and my only complaint is that I have to adjust it now, as it feels like it's dragging a little bit.

 

Did a pull yesterday after playing with my tune. Man she went crazy lean right before redline
Running out of MAF too. Can't fatten her up top anymore or I'll hit fuel cut. She angry. Time for some larger injectors asap.
At least I was pulling a bunch of timing.

 

As I’m reading through the 420+ pages it’s come to mind for me a few questions I haven’t happened across the answer to...yet.


I have a 3rz with a w59 tranny. Keeping stock internals, what amount of HP/TQ/psi can the bottom end of a 3rz handle? Should I do rods/pistons, how much power can this tranny handle?

 

I have a 2rz running 250 hp to the ground stock block. I was kinda rough with the transmission and shredded it last year so now I have an r series. W series don’t like launches and clutch kicking. Good tune and happy engine I’ve seen 300 hp stock block.

 

5-7psi is about as much as you want to cram into a stock bottom end. And 7 is pushing it. Over a 300 hp goal? you will want rods and pistons. The crank is good for as much power as you want also.

 

I just want to be able to pass people. I’m no stranger to forced induction as I have a built Jetta pushing about 25psi each time I get in it. I just don’t want to throw a pile of money at this aging platform.

How much boost is conceivable before actually needing to tune beyond the factory ECU?

 

If you're a badass tuner, you can make 350 on a stock 3rz block. The weak point on them tends to be the rods since they have a longer stroke than the 2rz bottom. There was a dude in Australia that dyno'd 390 or so on a stock 3rz. Tuning must be spot for over 300, and at that point IDK how long it would actually last. The turbo set up I did on my 2000 ext cab made 185 uncorrected at 5000ft and 225 corrected at 8psi with no tuning other than pink tops and a walbro 190 pump. It was definitely fast enough to pass people. I honestly think for most street and offroading use, 250 max is a good number. It's enough to make the truck much more fun to drive but will still be pretty reliable as well. THat's just my limited opinion though.

 

I'm no badass tuner. My VW timing belt slipped and I ended up needed a rebuilt head and pistons. $4k later I've got rods, pistons, bigger/hybrid turbo, and all the supporting mods. It was already a turbo engine and I was able to source a 'canned tune' to get it going and then remote tune it via a few emails. If you netted 225hp on stock ECU with 8psi with minimum mods that's where I want to be. I could easily see a boosted and built reg cab 2wd 1st Gen in my future.

My 3rz is leaking in the front and in the back of it. I feel it'd be easiest to change these seals with the engine out plus I can tend to aging pulleys, give it a deep cleaning, spray a little paint, and do the hard to get at things I've been putting off. I may as well make a tweakend of it and knock out a budget bucket list of mods and maintenance. Manifold, turbo, down pipe, injectors, fuel pump, and some 2" plumbing shouldn't be that hard. I've got an unused spare 3" downpipe for an MK4 1.8t to hack to fit.

Thoughts on the air/water intercooler? Why is no one running these? It's good enough for the outback but not the highway?

 

usually requires a "large" tank to prevent heat soak, more failure points, and in general more work. the main benefit is being able to get below ambient with ice so unless you plan for that its typically not worth the effort.

 

Heatsoak would be the enemy for me. When the ambient temps are already 90*+ it wouldn't take long to soak up. Long distance travels would soak it up, too.

I was considering using a 3' tall piece of PVC standing up (I have a camper shell) to contain the fluid. The pipe alone would hold over 17 gallons but I don't think it'd dissipate enough heat without having an additional oil cooler type radiator. Which would put it all back to being air cooled....

 

Do you guys think oversized injectors with stock ecu would cause high - or + LTFT numbers. I forget which code I have had since I'm out of town rn I think it was p0172 and its bank 1 rich. Was researching and correct me if I'm wrong It actually means I'm running lean??? Didnt have the code when I had stock injectors and thinking about getting some pinks to get inspected and just leave em in until I get the bitch tuned

 

Or huge vac leak

 

Over sized injectors on stock ecu will cause - ltft yes...

 

Huge vacuum leak will definitely cause it to run lean.

The long term trims will most likely be pulling fuel, as will the Short Term trims. This can depend on if you have the FPR hooked up to a vacuum source, and how well it balances out.

 

I'll have to check when I get back this week. Fpr is hooked up to where it was when it was stock. Best bet to just switch injectors and see what happens?

 

Unless it's because I have my truck straight piped lol. Either way I have to put that back on. Gonna do that first of course

 

P0420

 

Working my way through here and @boostedka 's current truck's thread and that's where I want to be. So now I'll start ratholing parts for a fall/winter build if I'm lucky enough to get it together before spring. I'm going to pull the engine/tranny and do some much needed maintenance as well as bolt up everything when it's out. Do a new clutch while it's out, too. I will do this on stock internals and stock ECU so the boost will be determined by the AFR and the rods. LOL. Simple enough I should have done this a decade ago.

@boostedka What sort of mileage do you get normally? I'm netting 18-20mpg on the highway with 33" tires and 4.10 gears. But my foot is usually to the floor on any sort of incline and passing is a laughing matter that involves some 'Shake and Bake' off of an 18wheeler.

What and where are these pink tops?