c0210 RR Wheel Sensor, with ABS, Brake & Slip Indicator lights - Fixed, bad rear wheel bearing

I repaired only the damaged wire but made an extra for any future trail repairs for myself or others.

 

Glad my thread could help. It does sound me to me like you have a signal issue vs. a damaged wire causing a loss in signal/voltage. Have you had a chance to try and clean up where the sensor plugs in while in your driveway and clear the codes? If the codes / lights don't come back on I think you can be postive its a bearing issue.

Best of luck! I'll be keeping an eye on your thread.

 

When I replaced the sensor I went ahead and cleaned up as much of the grease as possible and then cleared the codes but they came right back on as soon as I drove about 15 feet...

 

You can clean it up all you want. The tone ring for the abs is part of the bearing assembly. If the bearing is coming apart the tone ring could stop spinning and you’ll get no signal. That was the case with mine. Enough talk change the motherfucker.

I only did 1 side to answer your earlier question.

 

Understand, thanks.

 

Any updates Bob?

 

Looks like it's definitely the bearing so I'm working out the details on getting it replaced.

 

Quick update. The truck is in at Driveline and Gear Services in Fallon and they confirmed that the right rear wheel bearing is toast. In addition, the retainer/seal is scored which was probably letting enough gear oil ooze by to combine with the disintegrating bearing to create the black ass graphite looking grease that was covering the wheel speed sensor and tone ring. Left side bearing was on it's way out as well so they're doing both sides. Should have it back tomorrow, and I'll post another update.

I had a Four Wheel Popup camper on the truck for a lot of miles so I'm sure the weight (1200 +/-) of that contributed to the wear and tear. No ragrets...

 

Did you have any other way of knowing your bearing was going out other than the sensor malfunctioning? Curious to see if you notice the truck driving smoother when you get it back. I'm just curious because a front wheel bearing is fairly obvious when it goes, but I'm unsure on the rear.

 

I can't hear worth a shit so I can't say I heard anything. I did have a slight vibration so that might have been an indicator, but again it wasn't all the time. The front bearings were obvious, this one I relied on TW tribal knowledge and it paid off. I'll be sure to update once I get it back.

 

Final Update, just got the truck back from DriveLine & Gear Service in Fallon. Back up and running with no alarms, bells or whistles. @Airdog called it and the RR wheel bearing was smoked. So bad that the inner retainer/seal was scored as well. The LR was not as bad but still on it's way out so I had both of them done while they had it.

It was pretty funny that they were a little dubious that I was asking to have a wheel/hub bearing assembly replaced going off a message board and "chasing" dash indicators. I explained that I had the codes read, verified all the voltages and I was trusting the sage wisdom of TW experience. The owner of the shop was pretty impressed that it was diagnosed over the board. Thanks for everyone's input and help, most appreciated.

Edit: Clear dash except for the Maintenance Nanny:

 

What was the monetary damage if you dont mind me asking?

 

For them to do everything, both sides was $900, ouch.

The bearings were 185 ea, I could have got them from TW for 150 ea so I have no problem there. They had to replace both retainer/seals for 28 each. Labor for R/R axles and R/R press on-off was 400. Add in the tax, cleaners, smiles, etc and it's all there.

Obviously I could have saved on the labor of pulling the axles myself but with all the shit I have going on with moving in I have no complaints. They did a real clean job, and kept in contact with me the whole time. I have no problem recommending them to anyone.

Being half deaf I didn't even realize the rear was making noise until now that I'm driving it with no noise.

 

Glad to see its fixed; now go change your oil

 

Do I need a separate tool to pull the ABS codes? I have the warning lights on my dash just like OP but my Scangauge can't pick up any codes. I just need to know which corner to concentrate on. All my sensors and wiring look ok.

 

Supposedly the parts stores can read them but they all told me they couldn't read ABS/VSC codes so I ended up going to the dealer. The other option is to get Techstream and go that route. Good luck.

 

Old thread but interesting it as the wheel bearing. I just changed the wheel bearing and the new one after generates the code for right rear.