Install topper on bed protectors cut for OEM tonneau cover?

My '18 DCSB came with the OEM tonneau cover installed but now I've got a topper on order, due to arrive in about two weeks.

I've since learned that my plastic bed rail protectors are cut / notched on the side to make room for the tonneau cover pins. You can see what I'm talking about in this thread, it's for a DIY install but the result is the same:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-tonneau-cover-install.444415/

My best case scenario would be to sell the tonneau and swap the bed rail protector, as others have done. But if I can't find a buyer... is it a bad idea to keep the "cut" rail protectors and install the topper on them?

Also, anyone know the part number for uncut protectors? I found that Toyota sells the "cut" version but so far I've seen no reference to the "uncut" version that most trucks ship with:

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-protector-6624804070
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-protector-6624904070


One more question: is the header (front edge) of the bed going to be ready for the topper install after I remove the tonneau rail, or do I need to source a part for that too?

 

Your cap should cover the bed rail caps, so you won’t see the notch. Make sure you take your bed rail caps off and seal them with some silicone, this will help keep it more waterproof. I’m assuming the cap you ordered is the type that covers the bed rail cap. There are part numbers for the non-notched ones but I can’t find them right now. I sold my tonneau and the bed rail caps, and bought new non-notched ones, there pricey. You can’t tell that the are there.

 

Thanks yeah the topper / camper shell dealer will be pulling up the rails and sealing underneath. I'm mostly worried about leakage I guess.

Judging by the price of the notched pieces I'm probably looking at like $240 for a new set, ouch. That's why I'm tempted to leave them on. I suppose that it wouldn't be that bad for the person who eventualyl buys the tonneau to cut their own rails, like in the thread above...

 

The non-notched ones have an outline on the underside to show where the notch goes, so it should be easy to do.

 

Thanks, good to know.

 

Correct, mine came with the OEM bed cover and had no issues.

 

I left my notched ones on with no issues. If I was going to sell my tonneau cover I would have just asked the buyer to swap out his un-notched ones which is no issue. But I'm keeping my tonneau. The one thing I did was take out all the metal hardware pegs, square plastic surrounds and rear small bumper piece as my ARE shell would have hit those and then I took the original screws and filled the bolt holes in since they would be showing with the notched plastic bed covers open. Now in your case if you swapped yours you really wouldn't have to keep those bolt holes filled. Another poster said the bed rail cover square holes would be covered but the lip of the ARE shell that I have doesn't cover those unlike other shells. Also, the new buyer can always just cut out his original bed rails too if need be for his use if he was not willing to swap his bed rails with you.

 

Thanks for the reply and pics! That's a great Frenchie you've got there.

I've got a SnugTop on order, from what I've seen it'll cover the cutouts. I've debated keeping the cover but I really have very little room to store it, and I doubt I'd ever need to use it after my canopy's on there.

 

@Volksparts Where did you buy the rack you've got on top of your shell?

 

Both front and rear racks are made by the company Bajaracks.

 

Can anyone confirm whether I need to remove the factory tonneau striker/mounting pins from under the bed rail protectors to install an ARE camper/topper shell? I plan to keep my tonneau and hopefully swap back to tonneau without needing to reinstall the hardware mounts.

 

I think the strikers will be in the way,I did a complete removal. Sold everything to a member on here. My camper top never comes off.

 

Thanks for the quick response. I hit up @Volksparts and based on his info it sounds like I can reuse the notched bedrail cover/bed protectors from the factory tonneau (as I’m keeping it) but I’ll need to remove the bolts/pins the tonneau locks on in order to fit the ARE shell.

If sale goes through tomorrow I’ll post up results.

Thanks again all. Great community here. I get faster responses to RFIs here than I do at work.

 

Still need to wire it up and weatherize/seal it up a bit, but I’m pretty happy so far.
Is there a harness or splitter that plugs into either brake light socket plug or trailer plug to avoid splicing truck wires? I’ve seen the Curt adapter but that has a logic board/dongle that needs power run to it. I’m basically looking for a splitter that has a 4pin or another light socket I can clip off.

 

Did you leave in the pins?

 

Took em out

 

Took mine off too. Stripped three of the bolts on the lock pins but used EZ Outs to get those stubborn ones out. I didn’t seal under the bed rail covers/protectors yet but that’s on my to-do list.

 

Those that took them out. Was it by fit necessity or just for appearance? I wanted to leave them in for switch outs if needed. My shell gets delivered next week.

 

For fit, though I haven’t gone back with the pins to test if I could have actually left them. It was a case of better safe than sorry as I was picking up a used one at night during the work week and wanted one less impediment to getting it mounted. @Volksparts steered me in the right direction.

 

Did you get new plastic bed rails or leave them with the OEM? Love the truck!!!

How do you like the camper?!