Tips and suggestions for changing upper control arms and upper and lower ball joints on 2001 4x4taco

Hi guys, this is my first post this weekend I will be attempting to change my own upper control arms and upper and lower ball joints. I have a 2001 4x4 2.7L reg cab Tacoma. I'm a novice at working on my truck but I did change my cv axles. I'm gonna be using Moog parts as I don't want to use AutoZone or advanced brand and can't afford to use premium parts. If you guys have any suggestions for getting the job done or linking videos that you think will help. thanks!

 

Just so you know Moog suspension parts are just as bad as the big box auto parts stores.

If you live where winter is never below freezing it is much easier then the liquid brine belt.

Have the correct tools for removing the ball joints??

Just why are you changing the upper control arms?

Have new cam bolts if you need them??

 

are You changing them because you really want to or is it they desperately need to be changed?

I’f they don’t absolutely need to be changed this second I would save up and buy oem. I’m sure some on here have had good luck with Moog, The predominant census says that oem is the best as far as replacing front end parts unless your talking about Upper control arms/uniball over ball joint. Then aftermarket is hands down the best. I’m going with Total Chaos UCA’s.

 

Moog will be fine as long as you don't wheel the truck hard. This forum is not a fan of Moog. I'm not one of those must use OEM everything kind of guys, I have no problem using aftermarket parts. Many people will say not to use Moog but no one will recommend what to use other than OEM.

Sure I know of the quality concerns vs the lower ball joints Moog vs OEM. I'm using Moog lowers & so far they have lasted longer tham my stock ones which one of them seized. I wheel my truck & I check them often. For the lowers I may go back to OEMs on the next set but we'll see.

For upper ball joints I purchased Moog also as well as sway bar links. Never ended up using the UBJs cause I went with UCAs w/ uniballs. When it comes time to doing tie rod ends I'll use Moog also simply because they're greasable. I I know that they say OEM stuff is designed to not need to be regreased due to the liner & all but that's not my experience boot tear over time & the balls do run dry.

 

Honestly I don’t know if the upper control arms need to be changed. I noticed that the ball joints were completely dead so I brought it to local mechanic to have them checked out and he recommend the upper control arms be changed as “they were rusted pretty bad and my trucks is lifted putting stress on them.” I live in south Florida so rust is generally not a concern, (previous owner drove it up to nj a bunch). I didn’t want to pay $1,500 in labor or even $500 as quoted by another mechanic. I don’t really go off-roading ever ( only owned truck 3 weeks) so I don’t think moog will be a problem. I’m gonna rent tools from advanced to get ball joints out.

 

Also I got all the moog parts on Amazon for $350. that’s the cost of one oem upper. If I had the money I would but I’m a broke college student

 

I think you might have been told to change the upper control arms .

It is much easier to buy them with the ball joints installed then to fight getting the ball joints out and back in.

 

Beside UCA or other expensive aftermarket brands, what other upper control arms come with ball joints already pressed?

 

I have seen them on Rock Auto I think Napa

The Napa ones list for $150.00 each with ball joint No idea just what you could buy them for in your area

These I saw looking for other things so never checked them out real close

 

The ball joints are pressed into the knuckle & not the UCA like on second gens. Still need to press the old ball joints out.

Only reason to replace stock UCAs with another set of stock replacements is if the bushings are shot but even though those can just be replaced. I replaced by UCAs at 214K mi & there was absolutely nothing wrong with them.

 

look at the rubbers and washers that isolate the shock shaft where it comes through the upper mounting plate. I have seen where prior repairs the incorrect "centering" washers are tossed/lost and this allows the shock shaft to saw through or actually notch the shock shaft. If you have the assembly off you are going to need a spring compressor. I have seen peeps replace the shock on the vehicle but it seems really sketchy to me.

 

I dont think you need to compress the spring if you are just replacing upper control arm?? do you?? In all the videos I have watched I haven't seen them compress the springs.