What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Anybody running a magnetic oil drain plug or oil filter magnet they're happy with?

 

No real need to. These motors are old enough to be broken in so metal shavings shouldnt exist, if they do you have big problems. The filter itself should catch any foreign objects, if you buy one of decent quality.

 

I'm getting high iron in my oil analysis. SC'd & 1700# over stock. It just may be the reality, that this engine is going to wear in this fashion. So. I'm wanting to hear from folks who have any oil plug/filter magnets to keep as much iron as I can from cycling through the engine.
Anybody?

 

Yup

 

I use little round rare earth magnets, and just stick them to the drain plug. Engine, and diffs. Sorry, I don't have a source for them. I salvaged them from some fancy name tags that were used by the corporate elite where I previously worked.

Typically, I will see an small accumulation of gray, microscopic "filings". Nothing to be concerned about, and probably does nothing more than make me feel like I am doing something of benefit. LOL

 

There's the man i speak of! The flanges wouldn't press together completely, and it's my fault for not making sure they would line up before i dropped the manifold in. It was bad enough that i initially doubled up gaskets. As i tightened it up though, it did appear that one would work. Although the flanges still don't meet in the middle. Since i no longer have the leaking exhaust, I'm now noticing so many more random noises coming from everywhere! To be expected with an 18 y/o truck, but I'm gonna blame you anyways lol. Jk. I did have to remove the exhaust support that was bolted to the transfer case, but no biggie (i think). Now it's on to the engine mounts and i think a lot of my noises will go away. When i had the manifold off, i pushed on the motor from the manifold side and the mounts are bad enough that i could move the motor like that. Ive had new mounts in my posession for about 8 months. So i guess i have to thank you again. Because now i just moved installing them to the top of my truck task list! Hahaha.

 

Ham can be as simple or complicated as you want. This is probably a bit more than you're asking...but the bold bits are probably interesting to you. Feel free to ask questions or PM any time if you're wondering about any part of the Ham world.

Personally, I've found that the barrier to entry for CB is much lower (device cost, no license, more "informal" on trails) and so more folks I wheel with have a CB. However, the Ham radio is more versatile - it allows communication across longer distances, as well as additional functionality like APRS (position tracking/broadcast). As such, the group I go out with generally tries to put a ham radio at the front and rear of the caravan, even though our primary mode of communication is CB (where trail chat is "more acceptable" and there's no need to identify yourself all the time).

As for space - we all have room for both in our rigs. The CB fits nicely in the ashtray slot, and the Ham radio can fit under a seat (passenger seems most common).

I've got a few write-ups on my installs, if you're interested in mounting ideas, and the functionality of each:

1. Icom 5100A HAM Radio Install - "OMG, I'm drilling a hole in my roof" (radio no longer installed, see #4. still use the antenna though!)
2. Uniden PRO 520XL CB Radio, 'cause not everyone's a HAM (and first impressions)
3. Adding a RAM mount (and USB power + CAT6) to the A-pillar
4. Adding APRS with a new Ham Radio (Kenwood TM-D710GA, Mobilinkd TNC2.2) <-- HOWTO setup APRS
5. How APRS works

With all that, you can end up with a pretty nice cockpit - here, CB in the ash tray, Ham radio on the A-pillar.

​

 

Mine fit nicely here

It’s pushed back more under the normal radio now though.
But thats obviously not an option for you. Just another example though.

 

Any idea what to do with this missing part/area under the headlight?

Seems I lost it after my last trip. Open to ideas that don't make it look like I'm a teenager with bad taste.

 

Get a new one

Someone’s put little light bars there also.

 

Been missing the same one for over a year, eventually I'll buy this and just paint it

https://www.amazon.com/TOYOTA-TACOM..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=FYPM5G3Y2EJS8E1QDYAP

 

Thanks! Might actually order tao black.... Might be a pop of color (FAB-UL-OUS!!!)

 

Not sure I'm feeling the lights...seen a few, but not 100% sold on a row of LEDs there

 

I would just return to factory with a filler.

You can make it look decent enough with duplicolor paint

 

I've had good luck with plane jane gloss white rustoleum when I painted my corner lights

 

I did the same when my truck was white, but his truck looks silver so that’s why I said I’d get the duplicolor color matches stuffs.

 

I'm in the same boat. What oil are you running, and what oil change interval? The most common advice I've gotten is use a high quality oil, and change it more often.

The particles that make up the majority of the suspended solids in the oil are small and dispersed enough that they'll never come in close contact with a magnetic plug. You may remove some of the larger stuff that would settle out anyway, but that's not what you're seeing in your oil analysis report.

 

Thank you sir for replying.
I'm seeing the same in the research I've done.

Running Mobil 1 syn 5-30. 7k intervals. Mobile 1 seems to draw flack on the high iron in used oil tests.
Prior to (the 2)7k intervals, I was doing 3-4k changes.
I'm going to start with dino or blended vavoline 10w-40.
The test before this one was slightly high. This recent test was about 5x higher.
I made sure to dismantle the oil filter (oem). No noticable debris.

I'll edit my post to include my two uoa's when im on by computer.

 

Yeah my most recent UOA's got progressively worse as well. I was running 7.5k intervals with M1 5-30 also.
I have since switched to Rotella T6 5-40, all the research points to the "diesel" oils to be much better at suspending particulate matter, as well as having additives that decrease bearing wear, which accounts for a lot of the iron content. I'm also going to a 5k oil change interval.
I'd be curious how the dino oil compares.

I think high wear is also just a fact of life with forced induction, considering you're putting things under a lot of pressure that weren't really designed for that in the first place. We may not hit the million mile club, but I think these motors will last for a long time regardless.

 

Well, good lord. I've found exactly the same thing. Only spent about 14 hours doing so. Thanks for the reaffirmation. Cheers to you.

Uploaded my two UOA btw .