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Dick's Dank Yank Wank Tank

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by scocar, Oct 11, 2015.

  1. Aug 27, 2018 at 2:26 AM
    #4481
    Biscuits

    Biscuits Thorny Crown of Entropy

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    Swiggity swangin' biggity bangin'
    Purity of essence.
     
  2. Aug 27, 2018 at 7:28 AM
    #4482
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR нет войне

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    Rob II
    Okanagan, Canada
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    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper, Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Future: ADS Extended length, extended length UCA BJ to increase droop capability Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Future: Hammer Hangers, Shock relocate, ADS 12" or 14" shock. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, retrofit headlight by Insight, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs. Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)
    If it's pure, why did Dick feel the need to wipe it off his truck?
     
    Drainbung likes this.
  3. Aug 27, 2018 at 5:20 PM
    #4483
    tinker_troy

    tinker_troy Well-Known Member

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    shackle brace, rear sway bar, 3 gen seats, Coupe Shifter, 3rd gen OR front springs + shocks, 17" 4runner 6 spoke wheels
    and the movie (re)watch list grows some more.
     
    scocar[OP] and DoorDing like this.
  4. Aug 27, 2018 at 9:32 PM
    #4484
    scocar

    scocar [OP] hypotenoper

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    Speaking of pure evil. Fucking bullshit Lego truck. Which is a disservice to Lego.

     
  5. Aug 28, 2018 at 12:21 AM
    #4485
    MQQSE

    MQQSE I take naps

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    Shtuff on Stitch Sticker & Lic Plate Frame on Sumbitch
    IKR ... I remember thinking exactly that when I installed my steel side rails.
     
    scocar[QUOTED][OP] and Biscuits like this.
  6. Aug 28, 2018 at 12:52 AM
    #4486
    tinker_troy

    tinker_troy Well-Known Member

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    shackle brace, rear sway bar, 3 gen seats, Coupe Shifter, 3rd gen OR front springs + shocks, 17" 4runner 6 spoke wheels
    ..... cause where the hell else am I going to put this?

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Aug 28, 2018 at 1:11 AM
    #4487
    MQQSE

    MQQSE I take naps

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    Shtuff on Stitch Sticker & Lic Plate Frame on Sumbitch
    You win ... I got nothing.
     
  8. Aug 28, 2018 at 2:29 AM
    #4488
    Biscuits

    Biscuits Thorny Crown of Entropy

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    Swiggity swangin' biggity bangin'
    This is precisely why I do not ever want to remove the bed rails off of my 2014. The paint is so damn thin and weak it'll scratch itself if anything sharp is within two feet.
     
    scocar[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  9. Aug 28, 2018 at 5:40 AM
    #4489
    MQQSE

    MQQSE I take naps

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    Shtuff on Stitch Sticker & Lic Plate Frame on Sumbitch
    I replaced mine with KB VooDoo products ... I was very pleased:
     
    DoorDing and Biscuits[QUOTED] like this.
  10. Aug 28, 2018 at 7:06 AM
    #4490
    scocar

    scocar [OP] hypotenoper

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    The reason I took them off was to take the opportunity to do some leak/dust protection before the new shell goes on. If you have a shell, you gotta have the rail caps. Ironically, the shells weight mashes them down, and the eggo waffle pattern under the rail caps combined with fine dust abrasives goes to town. Not a lot you can do to stop thatwithout some Herculean effort.

    So fuck it, I just want to mitigate dust and water intrusion into the bed. Never had a leak with the old shell, just being proactive based on other stories. The other leak spot is two gaps at the top ends of the bed front wall. Another wonder of engineering. These need caulk beads, and you can't access them without removing the caps.

    Originally I was going to do the Boyd XXXX silicone caulk treatment all the way along the top of each rail. But his images are gone after his "ban" and once I got the caps off, it became apparent how retarded such an approach would be. So I settled on laying in thick closed foam gasket to mitigate nuisance leaks and most of the dust coming up through the 60 quadrillion holes under there.

    Rail caps came off pretty easily once I understood how the clips work, didn't break any.

    I'll post pics a few pics and details later.
     
    Crom, DoorDing, DVexile and 2 others like this.
  11. Aug 28, 2018 at 7:16 AM
    #4491
    MQQSE

    MQQSE I take naps

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    Shtuff on Stitch Sticker & Lic Plate Frame on Sumbitch
    Didn't break ANY clips? :bowdown:

    ... lottery ticket time.

    :popcorn: for promised "pics a few pics."

    ... seems fatherhood has tarnished that silver tongue a bit. :boink: :blahblah:
     
  12. Aug 28, 2018 at 9:51 AM
    #4492
    scocar

    scocar [OP] hypotenoper

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    PICS OF PICS FTMFW
     
    Drainbung and MQQSE[QUOTED] like this.
  13. Aug 28, 2018 at 10:21 AM
    #4493
    MQQSE

    MQQSE I take naps

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    Shtuff on Stitch Sticker & Lic Plate Frame on Sumbitch
    :yes:
     
  14. Aug 28, 2018 at 2:13 PM
    #4494
    scocar

    scocar [OP] hypotenoper

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    Some pics of pics

    The Dust Waffle Abrasion Subassembly (DWAS) revealed.

    Release and pull out a plastic push pin fastener fore and aft of the cleat track inside the bed (very carefully, I have pics if anyone wants them), then gently pull up the rear of the DWAS, being patient for the rear clip to release. Then gently work forward from the inside of the bed with a trim pry tool, and then alternate to pulling up with your fingertips on the outer edge of the DWAS. This is all best done fairly quickly from inside the bed. Take your time, and you won't break any clips.



    Note that there is a rather narrow margin between the innermost DWAS dust ports (clip holes) and the interior of the bed where the cleat rails are. This is your narrow line of defense (NLOD). The inside curvature for the DWAS, and the way it cups over the top of the cleat rail provide and excellent dust delivery pumping system (DDPS) into your enclosed space if you have a cap. Brilliant engineering again, Toyota!



    Holes everywhere, waffle structure everywhere. A nearly impossible sealing job, it appears. But you just need to focus on the NLOD, which is this area inboard of the inner row of clips. The waffle cavity is a hair over 1/2 inch in depth. 7/16 foam would probably seal the deal literally, but no such animal was on the shelf at the store or within my time constraints to get this shit done. So, blame Canada and your fucking metric system.


    I used this 1/2 in. anyway, close enough.



    Other photos aren't up yet, more to follow.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2018
  15. Aug 28, 2018 at 7:10 PM
    #4495
    MQQSE

    MQQSE I take naps

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    Shtuff on Stitch Sticker & Lic Plate Frame on Sumbitch
    Now this is the work of the Silver Tongued Suit I remember, respect, and admire. Well done. :cool:
     
  16. Aug 28, 2018 at 7:11 PM
    #4496
    MQQSE

    MQQSE I take naps

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    "DWAS" ... fuckin' priceless! :laughing:
     
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  17. Aug 28, 2018 at 7:52 PM
    #4497
    Drainbung

    Drainbung Somedays you are the show....

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    This may seem far fetched but my nickname in High School was Dust Waffle, go figure.
     
  18. Aug 28, 2018 at 9:02 PM
    #4498
    scocar

    scocar [OP] hypotenoper

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    Dude, don't even best gen my ass.:mad:
     
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  19. Aug 28, 2018 at 9:21 PM
    #4499
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Such a disappointing design flaw. :(

    I'm with you. Mine never gonna see the light of day. :bananadead:
     
    DVexile and scocar[QUOTED][OP] like this.
  20. Aug 28, 2018 at 10:29 PM
    #4500
    scocar

    scocar [OP] hypotenoper

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    :rofl:
     
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