V6 Timing belt, what else?

Just did it this weekend. Took me 8.5 hours total. But I could have probably done it in 6 if I hadn't dithered over several decision points.

I used the breaker bar/starter trick on the crank bolt. Took the timing belt tensioner off with a 12mm 1/4" drive socket, wobble joint, and long extension. No need to remove the AC compressor. Now I'm just waiting for all the air to work itself out of the coolant system as I drive. I haven't seen any leaks or coolant deposits yet.

10/10 will do it again in another 90k.

 

Wow, I don't see how 6 hours is possible. We finished Sunday, which was day 6 of the project. Took me and my helper 5 full days and 1 half-day or at least 60+ man hours. This included several hours screwing around with the oil cooler hoses and another few hours with the power steering reservoir screen clean out. (And, several hours of cleaning the big ATF spill mess.)
Regarding the belt tensioner, this was no big deal as the shop manual has you do this after the belt installation. 1/4" drive allows much access to the rear bolt than 3/8" drive.
We used the Lisle funnel and Timmy the Toyotaman method of adding coolant/bleeding. (Interestingly, the system drew down the reservoir by about 1" worth of coolant on the test drive even with bleeding.)
I am technically not finished as I want to re-check the belt tension next weekend.

 

I have a manual, so that significantly simplifies the process. I also didn't clean the power steering screen? Didn't even think to do so.

The odd thing for me was checking the timing. So I lined up all the mechanical marks, then installed the belt, then released the tensioner. I then used the crank to check the timing, rotating everything around. The odd thing was, when the belt came back around it was a tooth off towards the left cam but all the mechanical marks lined up. Went around again, two teeth off to the left, all marks still true. Did this happen to anyone else?

 

I have a FSM, too. I also had Timmy's video. Regarding the three ink arrows on the belt - that is correct, as you rotate the crank the ink arrows move over a tooth or so at a time per rotation, but the mechanical marks will always line up.

 

Okay good. That's a relief. Not expecting that, it was quite disconcerting to see the belt "walking" away from the marks.

Also, for two days now my coolant has been steady at the full line on the overflow reservoir. So I'm happy to say no water pump leak. Always concerned about that with FIPGs.

 

FIPG? The water pump comes with one of those thin dual layer metal gaskets.

 

It sure did. But I read multiple places the FSM calls for FIPG as well. I used a very narrow bead on the block, placed the metal gasket, a very narrow bead on the gasket, placed the water pump.

 

Huh. My FSM did not mention anything about FIPG. And, the Timmy the Toyotaman video didn't show any FIPG. The gasket itself also had some sort of impregnated rubbery stuff.

 

I'll defer to your first hand knowledge. I don't have my own FSM. I pretty much rely entirely on other people's posts.

 

Just for what it's worth...
When I replaced my water pump I used the metal gasket that came with it. That was in 2015. I didn't see any mention of using FIPG with the gasket, and I don't have any leaks.

 

Just finished my daughter's truck and I took my time and cleaned and painted as I went along. Took me about two days but it looks really nice and clean now.

 

What did you paint?

 

I recently bought a 2001 Tacoma Xtra Cab V6 4x4 TRD. Manual trans. 236K miles. Someone rolled it back in 2014, in snow. Minor damage really. But either way, it was "totaled". Picked it up for $2,000. Runs and drives great. everything works. Last weekend I did the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and T-stat. It took 6 hours (three beers). I have an identical 2002 in great shape and I've done the job on that truck twice now, so I am fairly familiar with the process. This was the first time I have used the starter to break the crank shaft bolt free and wow... I will be doing that from now on.

 

Yeah, that's a pretty amazing trick. Mine actually turned over and untreaded entirely before I had it turned off.

 

Intake and valve covers.....did the whole teardown...

 

I unplugged my coil packs to avoid any accidents. Since it was my first time, I was envisioning a breaker bar doing windmill action in my engine bay LOL. Not like that could happen but still...

 

I bought a crankshaft spanner wrench and used two grade eight 1/4" bolts to remove the crank pulley bolt.

 

I built my own tool, bent the shit out of it and then chucked it in the weeds.

 

Looks awesome!

 

Simpler than the coils is to just remove the ignition fuse. 7.5 amp IIRC, under the steering wheel.