What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

On his truck, it's an independent circuit, seperate from the other lighting. When I get around to installing a 545T in his truck, I will likely run the "headlight" output from that system to the LEDs instead. They work FAR better than the craptastic factory headlights, and are more noticeable.

At the same time, I will install a relay so the factory lighting is disabled with key off. Obviously, flashers will be unaffected, as they should be available independent of the key.

 

Re-read what I said.

They aren't wired into the headlights, in any fashion.

When I put the 545T in, I will likely run the headlight output from that controller, to the LEDs. This way they are ignition-switched, and serve all the "light flash" functionality one has in a normal alarm installation- but being LED they are brighter and draw far less than the stock headlights.

Unrelated to that, I will rewire the factory light switch feed through a relay, such that the IGN must be on for the factory lights to work (except for the flashers, which I will leave alone and functioning as normal, independent of IGN).

 

No touche needed.

My apologies if I came across as cross. I am having a bout of insomnia and would REALLY rather be sleeping now, but after looking at the ceiling for 3 hours figured I'd do some research on this truck project. Like that's gonna help!

(neighbors are just REAL lucky I'm not the asshole I could be. I have plenty of LED worklights and dropcords. It's only because I'm considerate of them that there aren't sparks flying and grinders screaming right now. I REALLY ought to live out in the country, or at least have a workshop available!)

The 545T is a headlight controller. It also controls the parking lights, and is able to do so in response to a photocell (lights automated when you enter a tunnel, for example), in relation to the wipers (turn on the wipers, lights come on, which is required in many regions, like Charleston). It also interfaces with DEI alarm products (and anyone else's that puts out a Ground When Armed, or is installed by a competent Howler Monkey). It does many things, some of which I can't recall. It has a feature that you can select by cutting a wire loop (or wiring that into a switch) which will enable DRL use of the headlights. This is why I am going to wire the 545T into the LEDs, not the vehicle headlights. The LEDs are brighter, more noticeable, and in fact I have used them to drive without remembering to turn the vehicle stock lights on. That right there is a big part of putting the 545T into play.

It's old tech- I first installed one in my 89 CRX Si back in the day- but it works well. I am really surprised the manufacturers never caught on and used this sort of arrangement in the vehicles as built.

 

Some slider shit







Didn’t get finished because someone sent me a message about a boot! Yay grey boot

 

Yes they are great at getting you noticed. When driving on the road that's good, when hunting not so good. If my truck had them I would disable them. Or maybe wire in a switch so I could turn them off when I go in stealth mode.

 

Since my truck did not have DRL, but does have the convenience of automatically shutting off the headlights when you open the door, I just leave my headlights on all the time. Couldn't tell you when they were last turned off. I also am running LED bulbs. But I worked on the glare mod until I have low beams that have the same sort of cut off as halogens, etc. No disco ball look.

 

Nope, but imagine those that do don't want to be noticed either.

 

Although today is to be one of the hottest days of the summer, I have swapped over from my summer tires to winter/mud tires, Wrangler Duratracs, 275/75R16. I love having 2 sets of wheels to switch back and forth.

I am traveling to W. Va., to hunting lodge, and will be running in some treacherous spots on our lease. This was the last summer for the summer tires, they are almost bald, so had to put the mud tires on a bit earlier than usual.

And yes, I torqued the lug nuts!! Also used a dab of anti-seize on each one. Anal about anti-seize on everything, not so much on torqueing, though I have found that if I just do them to "gudentite", they will be over torqued.

Before:


After

 

It was 36 F here this morning.

 

Are you leaving it as just a single tube? Interested to see how that does strength wise. I know you were the one who wasn't going to run any sliders at all right?

 

Just the Good Ol’ Boys, never meanin’ no harm...

 

Wow, very nice fit-up!

 

maybe some reinforcements and he should be good. I seen this design on crawlers. looks good

 

I just grabbed a 2000 4runner over the weekend and noticed all the ball joints look pretty shot.. I want to replace with Toyota’s but dont really want to drop 400$ in balljoints right now since I’m planning on going solid axle within the next year or so.. Any recommendations on a more affordable brand of balljoints or brands to avoid? This is not my DD..

 

I have a set of uppers at home. greasable, brand new still in bags. I think they are mastercraft?

 

I'm a fan of MOOG products. Don't buy them at your parts store, though- you can save about 60%, typically, getting them online.

 

Just did mine and used Hawk Performance Ceramic: https://amzn.to/2LEeMZ1
They work great on my BMW so I'm hoping they are quiet and clean on the Tacoma

 

On the brake pads, I've always had good performance out of Performance Friction pads. I haven't checked the price for them yet- plan to get into the brake system this weekend when I do a LSPV Delete as mine is hemorrhaging fluid. I will check the pads while I'm down there.

EDIT: just checked the price. $82 at Oreilly, around $40-50 online. PN 0436.20 for front on my 97. They don't seem to be very well-reviewed, either. Maybe it's time I looked at a different brand, like Pyrifera's suggestion.

 

How did you mount that basket to the camper shell? I am about to do some drilling in my camper shell to put on a VanTech rack and mount my RTT. Just looking at all options beforehand. Custom?

 

How would you guys go about fixing this? P.O. musta had a shell of some sort on.

Just surface rust at the moment