Flex-a-Lite 678 Install in 2007 PreRunner

I am very out of practice in creating anything.... Here goes. My fan clutch sounded like it was dying a grinding death, so I read the FORUM about anyone doing this - and I have to thank "loginfailed" right off the bad for helping me locate a wire. So, given I found the fan at half price at Amazon Warehouse, it seemed like more fun than just a new expensive replacement. ADVISE: I'm old, it's hot, I work slow, and take pictures and breaks! So, off the bat, I was only missing one 10 mm nut, you WANT more #10 wire (8' rolls will do, match your fan color wires), have tie wraps on hand, and if you want shrink wrap (I do), get plenty. Then, it will go fast. Also, I inserted pictures OUT OF ORDER that make the install go faster than mine. Yes, it is quieter. Yes, the engine is more responsive. Yes, it is running cooler, which helps the AC very much here in TX. Will it improve mileage? I log everything, and it runs a pretty controlled environment. I will know soon. Hope you enjoy.

Remove the covers, and then unbolt the fan/clutch from the pulley.

Tip the shroud back, and grab the fan, pull them both straight up. Look at that room!

What got pulled out

First part of install is bracket for driver side.

NOT FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS. Wires for fan power are just tied up inside shroud, not good. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the shroud, and stuck the wires into some split loom, and then drilled some holes for a tie down. I REALLY would have liked a connector, but this ended up butt spliced and heat shrinked. Just sayin.

NOW, you can install the drivers side. There is a SLOT at the bottom of the radiator that the bracket will fit in - then loosely install the bolts, including the top shroud bolt you removed.

Next step in the install is to mount the overflow catch can to the passenger bracket.

NOW, AGAIN, AVOID THE INSTRUCTIONS. You need to install tubing onto the SHORT tube at the bottom, and secure it. DO IT NOW! (You can't see the connection when you install, and the coolant you pour in will leak right out!)

Now, you can install the passenger bracket the same way. Loosely attach the bolts for the bracket and the top shroud bolt. Again, the bottom fits in a slot at the bottom - if the shroud gasket isn't up against the radiator, you missed.

Then, go criss-cross to tighten the bolts, pressing the shroud to the radiator. They say if you compress the gasket 50% you are good. I'm not sure I got that far, but it was even and consistently closed.

Now, on to the controller - this is an electro-mechanical unit, and I added some found O rings to give a little cushion to the mount. You can do better - EM hates vibration, and I have no idea if these hold up, given other comments. Terminals are well marked, you have a mechanical thermocouple that needs to be near the inlet to the radiator, and an adjustment know for setting the trip temp.

Location pretty much needs to be near radiator, so passenger front, and a couple hole drilled to mount it.

So, starting with the provided wires and terminals, I made the available connections ready at one end, crimped and heat-shrinked. The motor wires are not yet present, because they are supposed to come from "extra" wire. Not. Also, note that I made a JUMPER from the "power HOT" to the "switched HOT" - I want the fan to run after engine shut down for cool off.


I do all my wiring from a "known point". So, everything connects to the controller, that is the starting point for harnessing. DO NOT BELIEVE YOU CAN DO THIS WITHOUT HARNESSING, OR YOU WILL HAVE WIRES EVERYWHERE. AND, go get two packs 10' #10 wire for the motor wires - they didn't give you enough.

I laid everything out over the radiator, on the way to the battery side for harnessing.

I had LOTS of left over 1/2" split loom, so I made two harnesses - battery and fan. You can put it in one easily if you have larger. And I chose a BLUE wire for fan power, because that was on the fan itself. So, loom and tie, loom and tie....

OK, lets make the Fan connection - again; wish I had a connector.

I fastened that harness to one of the "speed holes" in the mounting bracket.

OK, not following instructions again, I finally disconnected the battery.

I connected the positive RED wire to an accessory bolt on the hot side.

And the black ground to the body connector next to the battery.

AND HERE IS WHERE IT GETS REALLY HARD AND SUBJECTIVE! I did not want to try to get in the compressor harness - it's way down in middle earth, and tightly fastened. So, this is where Tacoma Forum and "loginfailed" saved most of my biscuits. I had been searching for the AC Clutch wire connection I needed, and not much luck. It was identified down to a relay in the engine fuse box, and I removed the battery, all hold down, and harnesses to try to get to the bottom. I could not even pry it apart - STOP BEFORE YOU RUIN SOMETHING! Now, follow along on the "get by" method. This is probably suitable for anyone who does not do violent off road, but I understand they don't like the electric fans anyway!)
SO, here is the relay to work with

A little closer, from the driver side fender, the red wire points to it.

Removing the relay, the terminal you need it the RIGHT MOST VERTICAL terminal in the pic.

I thought maybe I could solder a wire to the relay tab, then smooth it down. No, tab does NOT like solder, and relay is sealed, so you are not getting in there.

So, I ended up with a nicely tinned, 90 degree piece of wire. Using some needle nose, inserted in the "fold" of the terminal socket.

Now, gently rock the relay back into the socket. The wire should be well held in place for NORMAL use!

I drilled a small (wire size) hole in the FB casing, about 1/2" down on the engine side, to run the AC clutch wire from the controller through. Soldered, and shrink wrapped, then formed the wire into the relays to stay out of the way


And you thought I would forget the fuse?

No, I mounted it to the top driver side shroud bolt, so I can find it. Both of the HOT to the controller come from this fuse - so no false failure mode,

So, put the thermocouple into the radiator, and let's wrap this up!

DARN IF I AM NOT REAL HAPPY THAT EVERYHING WORKED PERFECTLY! AC clutch fan on and off = OK. Fan doesn't come on without thermostat = OK. Fan will run until "cool" on engine shut off = OK. Fan comes on by thermostat when AC not on (HA!) = OK. Let's clean up the install!

 

Nice install, Great fan high cfm 3300. I have had one since 2006 on another truck. Works great. I have however replaced the motor 3 times andfinally took it out the last. Be careful and watch the temp gauge regularly.

 

Nice write up! I still wouldn't trust an electric fan though on my rig though

 

Great work!! What part of TX? If your close I’ll pay you to do this for mine.

 

Thanks, MattCowsmasher, I'm down in Lockhart, SE of Austin (BBQ Capital of TX!) I looked at your build, and you certainly have done harder than this. I doubt it would be worth your trip down here. I'm a little old and slow to pay! But that's a nice complement, so thank you. By the way, I had to post a dammit-mendment today. I found a part hiding in packaging! Not major, and will be up soon.

 

Thank you I’m deathly afraid of anything more than 2 wires. How much improvement on the AC performance has it had that would be my only real reason of attempting something this intricate.

 

A dammitnendment. Cleaning up the tools and parts today, I found a weird little metal clip stuck in the melts of the plastic hardware bag. It took a minute, but then it hit me. So, here it is. I'm not sure I like this a lot better, but it's the "right" way to do it. (Maybe...)
I found two of these little clips, melted in to the plastic bag sealing - a big and little one;

Yep, it's what you think it is. A clip adapter for a relay terminal. Dang. So, pull the relay, and wire out, solder up a connection;

So, you would just insert it into the flat, like this?

No, you cannot get the relay in afterward. You have to hold them together like this, and rock it in, and it is NOT easy - you have to push.

So, it gets inserted, and is probably more "secure" than my original method. Then I put the wire back into place after this shot, and closed it up.

 

I haven't been very far since completed, across town (that's three miles), and the car wash auto dry drive. I would say AC is "improved", but the fact that it was still over 100 each afternoon, I really can't say how much yet. Better, yes, because the radiator is cooler, and I WAS able to turn the control to the bi-level, instead of panel only, and down from HI to one step lower - MUCH sooner than I have in the past. I think when it's just in the 90s, I will have some nice things to say.
As far as the wiring, I did most everything before even disconnecting the battery. It's not that scary, but I understand. If you have a friend close by that doesn't mind wires, and is patient enough to keep it clean as you go, you could probably get by with donating some good beer!

 

I dig it, this is something I may consider down the road.

 

Well, I have my fingers sort of crossed. Number one thing, I got this last September, and have not added 2K total miles yet. Number two, I don't do anything like violent off road, or even on road. It hauls trees, grass, and things like pavers and wood. So, odds of over use failure are pretty low! (Yes, weekly exercise program for the truck - mowing for me!) It's a great 193K truck that I got at 191K, and will be treated very well for the remainder of our time!

 

That’s so great I’m approaching 90k an hope mine last this long. I beat on her but always maintain like crazy.

 

My wife says can I make some money? Boy, retirement is tough! When you think about this again, in COOLER weather, give me a ping buddy. I'm not cheap, but I might be inexpensive!

 

Thought I would let you know, I have not been any appreciable miles, but once it got below 100, I had to turn the AC down , and down, and down. Not the temp, but the fan. Adjusted the run after on the thermostat, and pretty happy. I didn't mean to be rude and say I would not do it - I just questioned my value. but I see you are a member of TTC, and I am going to join up. So, if you have future interest in doing the wiring, let me know, you can PM or whatever. I might make it to COTA for Sept. meet.

 

I didn’t take any offense to what you said I understood the context of it. Welcome to TTC it’s a good group with better people. As for COTA I’m not sure if I’ll be able attend I work Sunday’s.

 

Nice write up op.
Do you have links you could add to original post of parts used?
Thanks

 

I'm going to try to do with the Multi-Quote thing. Hope it works. Took me a day to figure out I am "OP"!

 

Ok, @Kolunatic , and anyone else. Here's my links for what they are worth.
The fan itself. Auto Anything, Real Truck, and Amazon ALL have a selection. Several I looked at, then compared to Amazon, said "does not fit". I know that is not the last word, but, I was not interested in "extra work". So, in all my searching, I found this one in the Amazon Warehouse for "$200 off" other prices. (I got it for $200 and some tax). Compared to putting in another fan clutch, it got my interest.

$559 Flex-a-lite 678 S-blade Engine Cooling Fan with Controls for Toyota Tacoma 05-09 , Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035GWD92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wire clamps I needed, and had some small ones from another project, here is an assortment. Go there, and you can pick your size. I would have liked 3/8" along with the 1/4" I had tons of. If I were all knowing, I would have this assortment in the garage, then replace from there.

1

https://www.amazon.com/Cushion-Insu...ywords=Insulated+stainless+steel+cable+clamps

Let's see, I used split loom harness. I had a ton of 1/4". You could use a foot or two, but the big wires from the fan would like 1/2". If there is an assortment, I would get that. Otherwise, I would just get something like this. It doesn't go bad.

$10 20 FT 1/4" INCH Split Loom Tubing Wire Conduit Hose Cover Auto Home Marine BlackMarine Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KW9RHYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heat shrink - I mostly used the size I am now out of. I got an assortment kit at Harbor Freight. Here is an Amazon kit, and if I knew right now what I used up, I would say just get that. But something like this will get you through, and then you can refill as needed. Search assortments, because you can get far more than this;

Anytime Tools 48 pc Heat Shrink Tubing Wrap Sleeves Assorted Sizes

https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tool...r=1-15&keywords=heat+shrink+tubing+assortment

Oh, yeah. I bought some extra wire for the fan power. This is typical of what I got at the local AutoZone.

$16 TUOFENG 10 AWG Silicone Wire 20 Feet [10 Feet Black and 10 Feet Red] 10 Gauge Stranded Wire - Ultra Flexible Tinned Copper Wire High Temperature Resistance

https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Temp...d=1537413294&sr=1-3&keywords=10+awg+auto+wire

And for the FAN power connector I did NOT install, but would have liked to (makes the shroud and fan a removeable assembly). I might get this at some point.

$7 Nilight 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Harness,Heavy Duty SAE Connector Bullet Lead Cable

https://www.amazon.com/CES-Gauge-Qu...413482&sr=1-4&keywords=2+pin+10+awg+connector

Mostly everything came with the Flex-a-Lite Kit. I wasn't disappointed, except for the learning points I showed in my version of install. This was a good product. I'm sure the other main brands you will find available will be as well. Install should be similar. I chose this version because I did want an adjustable control, and I wanted to be able to set it to run for cool down.

 

Nice
Thanks
I had an electric fan in an old Chevy. It ran hot at lights in Tx heat. Worked great.

 

My truck wasn't ever running hot, but the AC was not like when I picked it up. Then I heard the clutch fan going, and that is when I decided to try this. Of course, since it was so HOT from June on, the AC still didn't seem to improve after the switch, but the truck temp did stay a little cooler. Once it finally got back into the 90s, I had to keep turning the AC fan down, and down, and down. Now I know I don't need a recharge! I can keep it ice cold inside.

 

The correct way to install that is to slip the u-shaped part (where you soldered the wire in a previous photo) over the leg of the relay. The flat end with the hole is for soldering a wire to, or it will accept a spade connector.