Cold AC?

So, does the -16 -17 -18 at the end of the TSB indicate what year it came out or what year it applies to?

 

If you open one up, and read the first page or 2, they usually indicate a vin or vin range for applicable vehicles.

 

I have the parts on order for the TSB. They also had to order some other parts because my bumper keeps popping out on the passenger side where the plastic bumper meets the quarter panel (common problem on 4Runners).

Once the TSB is done, I will report back. It certainly cant hurt, but not sure it is going to help.

 

Can someone please post all the pages of the tsb please?

 

Welcome to owning a black truck. I just got rid of one and will never do it again.

 

I would think it could, but if you read what they do to put it in they spice and cut to put it in and im not sure i want them doing it .. it reads like it is a fan that runs when the A/C is on..

 

I’m in miami and I barely put my ac control below 10am angle...

 

run mine on recirculate 98% of the time...in SoCal not too much humidity so the other 2% is checking to see if the line is dripping water.....mine gets cold and i turn temp to 72-74......at 69-70 it is very cold...enough so my wife turns her side down or closes the vents

 

can you do that with the coil you have? the newer crap does not cool as well because it does not get as cold because there is not enough of a surface area on the coils for the air before and have the heat exchanged the blower sends it to the cabin....plus the new freon is not a cold as the old stuff thus it will not cool as fast or as efficient......it will cause you to keep the temp down at 67-70 or all the way down to LO.......will take a longer time to cool a hot cabin down too

 

does it cycle at idle?....when i stop or idle, i hear and feel the compressor cycle, but when i and running down the road it works fine.....do you think I should take it in and check it out? i have 2016

 

This.

From years of taking cars apart, I have noticed the evaporators getting thinner and thinner. Starting qith r134a systems. The type of coil remains the same, but it keeps getting thinner.

My moms 94 land cruiser produces noticeably colder air much faster than my smaller cab truck. It is painfully cold at the vent. It also feels like it removes moisture much quicker.

That suv has the whole cabin freezing within a few minutes (no rear a/c either)

I notice that while my truck has acceptable a/c performance, it does feel like "the btus have been reduced" when its fully heatsoaked.

For the record, both my truck and the land cruiser suffer higher vent temps when heatsoaked and in traffic, but the cruiser recovers much quicker.

They do not make them like they used to.

 

So basically you're thinking there isn't anything "wrong" with my AC, it basically doesn't work as well as I'm accustomed to. The question is, for the guys that are saying theirs is ice cold simply have a different perception but the temps are actually similar?

 

Theres a cheaper way- that toyota fan is $450! You can buy two 12” radiator fans for less than $50. Also, you dont need to do all the stuff on the TSB - just set the fans up to turn on when the compressor is energized and/or manually with a switch from the cab.

 

I think so* (perceptions). My truck eventually gets "ice cold" once the interior temperature has been pulled down if that means anything. But here at home i can directly compare with: 2002 IS300, 94 and 06 land cruiser.
With the exception of the is300 which is a car, neither land cruisers have aux. Electric fans.

The idle heatsoak effect is present in all these vehicles, but it seems like my truck has less "excess capacity". The cruisers get Ice cold a few seconds after a stop heatsoaked or not, while my truck just takes about 10 minutes of moving to really cool down. Another example is, once on the highway, the taco needs a much higher fan speed to maintain the cabin temp vs my other vehicles. All are tinted with ceramic tint.

None of this is scientific. Just my observations.
You would probabaly have to talk to a toyota engineer about the real numbers, but I have a feeling the bean counters are now at the perfect balance of cost vs. Cooling vs. Efficiency.

Also, unless they are installing a huge fan, or a shrouded fan at the rear, the auxiliary pusher fan isnt working at its best if its covering a small portion of the condenser.

Another thing to look at is the clutch fan. Might be tuned for efficiency. I rarely hear it engaged except at startup.
Just some ideas

 

My A\C works fine. Access cab (so not so much to chase out or cool) and it's blowing cold air before I'm to the end of my block. It's been pretty hot and humid here in the heartland of Ohio, with regular temps going over 90 and "feels like" going into the low hundreds. For what it's worth, not much external stress on the truck. Not trailering. Not up to big load. A cap and a couple of dogs interspersed or otherwise combined with camping and that's about it. I never use the auto climate. I instead adjust.

 

For real, I’ve noticed that I could legitimately die if I left the a/c full blast on a long drive. You may have a problem.

 

I would put the blame on the new refrigerant for now until proven other wise. Being as the new refrigerant is so costly and scarce, I would make sure it's at the proper amount. If that were to be found proper, I'd just go with the R134A and do whatever was needed (me personally) to get it righ.

Mine works fine, but I have all tinted windows and a 4" limo tint strip on the windshield.

Moreover, my truck being white probably helps a bunch. I've done a A/C performance check with air coming out of the nearest to evaporator vent coming out no higher than around 47*f when I first got the truck. But on those extreme 100*f days, I have to keep it in at full/max cold, where as on my 4R I have to dial it up so I won't freeze my jewels lol!

So yeah, I suspect that it maybe doing all it can muster, just not good enough in some cases.

Cheers!

 

Today I got in my truck, which had been parked in an 80 degree garage, and went for a drive. The ambient temp is in the 70's and overcast but the AC still did not seem to get cold. Cool, yes, but under these conditions I think it should be ice cold. Other than taking it in to the dealership for them to look at, is there anything I can check at home? I pulled the cabin filter yesterday to visually inspect but seems in good shape with no large debris.

 

Get a meat thermometer and check your outlet vent air temp.

 

What temp should it be?