Finally an informational oil thread providing lab testing!

I think an in depth analysis is a good idea.

Something like viscosity multiplied by rate of flow cross multiplied with the molecular structure of the Amsoil additives divided by number of beers consumed

@commy_2 any thoughts?

 

I throw a little beer in with the cheap oil I use. Makes it flow much better when changing.

I kid I kid, don't put beer in your oil.

 

I abstain from me rear seat mod (quality time) when working on oil changes. Actually its a great timer to know oil has been drained out. Don't want to put that plug in too quickly.

 

I take it you have a 1GR-FE Tacoma engine that calls for 5.5 qts. vs. the base model 1GR-FE that calls for 4.8 qts. All of this is in the booklets found in the glove box at time of purchase.
Mine is a 5.5 qts. vrsn and 5.5 qts of oil gets it right on the full line. It helps to change oil when its fully warmed up and not cold + let it drain. Avoid the 2 min. Quik-Lube drain and refill approach.

 

Yup put it on the lift warm to drain. Go do something else. come back. add oil and drop in the 5 quarts. Tried the spec amount and it always has overfilled. Using the long toyota filter too.

2 ASE certified techs supervised me.

 

To address your signature. I pay $25 for 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and $3ish for a filter. That’s $28. Let’s say your Dino oil costs you $12 for everything (it doesn’t). Does the $13 difference give you that much more for mod money than me?

 

lab testing, smab testing, keep that shit clean!

 

I hear people spending 40 on oil and change it at 3k.

That about 200 a year I can spend on better things .

 

You guys should see how the new Toyota 0W16 oil comes out. It's like water, even when not warmed up. I doubt Tacoma will see 0w16 until the next major face lift, but all the Toyota cars and small SUV's will have it in 2020.



Crazy the lengths we go to for emissions and fuel economy now.

 

How about Redline oil and a Royal Purple oil filter ?

 

lul

 

http://free-downloads-planet.info/mineral-oil-structure-9684e4/

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Se8-W7rK0H4

 

Eventually they'll have SAE 0W-0

 

Obvious AMSOIL "dealer" is obvious. Shits overpriced. Not worth it.

 

im not losing sleep over using a non PAO Group IV oil in my cars, and I can do my OCI with an OEM filter for $20 that leaves me $44 for beer money and then I buy only the Best grog money can buy and its a Group IV Beer https://res.cloudinary.com/saucey/image/upload/v1475624303/xwgnprqwjkxkpwsqkyez.jpg

 

AMSOIL says to leave their oil in for 25k miles and just replace the oil filters every 5k miles, how the f**k can u just change out the filter without draining the pan it would be the EXXON Valdez oil spill part 2, I would need to buy more AMSOIL oil just to properly top off the oil that got spilled all over my driveway.

 

Pappy always said "truth should be told, but lies need to be sold". @commy_2 sure comes across as you trying real hard to sell Amsoil.

You've made your point. Those that seek truth shall do so of their own volition. Those that don't, won't listen anyway.


...and no, I don't use Amsoil products.

 

Always use Mobil 1. You can buy 5qt from Walmart for $23 and twice a year there is a rebate for $12. Add in a $4 oem oil filter and you get an synthetic oil change for about $15 depending on your state tax

Best cost/value