FUEL PUMP UPGRADE

https://www.racetronix.biz/storeitems.asp?cc=tube-03

That helps to prevent the hose clamp "issue."

 

I'm putting in the deutsch works this afternoon. Unless somebody can tell my another reason why my 4.0L v6 in 2013 DCLB won't turn over 3,000 RPM. I have to believe the filter is clogged, or, the pump is about to fail. I have the URD kit.

 

For those that have done this.
My fuel gauge doesn’t work. Does this kit address this in anyway?
Thanks

 

good call!

is the 250mm long x8mm still the proper size?

 

I am not sure. Haven't done it myself. Another member did, and posted the specifics, in one of these threads

 

This seems more akin to the secondary air injection system .

 

I'm on he verge of buying the kit with Deutschwerks pump also.
I have a double cab. Does that mean I have to drop the tank or can I get away with lifting the bed? Gonna have to do the latter for something else anyway

 

DCSB pump is under the last foot of the cab, gotta drop the tank down. Not sure about DCLB.

 

Y'all got any 'them post install results???

 

@Torspd can you measure fuel pressure via the OBDII port? And if so, would that be a good indication of whether your pump/filter setup is causing loss of power or poor mileage? How much pressure should it be maintaining? How low is too low?

 

I did the urd pump kit on my 2009 dclb , i used the dw 255 pump and its been flawless. Had it on so far for almost 3 years, 60k miles and with the dclb you can get to the gas tank by removing the whole truck bed and getting to the tank from the top. You'll need 2 guys to pull the bed off of course.

 

I was getting the same issue, the truck was getting harder and harder to start and my fuel trims were all screwed up ( Have TRD supercharger ) , I was getting a pre-code for lean condition because the truck was starving for fuel. As soon as I put in the new pump it idled better, accelerated better, etc. I replace the fuel filters every 20k because nearing 30k it start to turn over a little harder. The oem built in pump crap is garbage. My oem fuel filter looked like someone dragged it through a bag of charcoal.

 

And I think I answered my own question....I forgot I had bought the Torque app a long time ago and still had an OBDII cable unit. I fired it up and nope, no fuel pressure reading. That would have told me instantly whether the pump filter was really an issue or not.

 

There is no sensor, like you said. You could kind of extrapolate through your fuel trims that there is a problem. The best method would be to have a gauge. Fuel pressure should be effectively static at 43.5 PSI. If it is deviating too far in either direction, and a clogged filter should decrease that, then you have a obvious problem. Depending on how many miles you have on your engine and truck, will determine how saturated with contaminants the fuel filter is.

 

@ItalynStylion , have you seen this thread?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fuel-the-fire-or-stay-the-filter.508835/

 

I read it again and only got one additional piece of info I missed the last three times I've read it....43.5psi for the fuel pressure.

Other than that, there's little to no useful information in there. It's a bunch of people posting that after 60k+ miles they cut open their working fuel pump to find it is dirty. That's not unexpected. There's also no one in the entire thread that said following the installation of a new pump/filter that the truck ran any better or yielded better mileage (at least no one running an NA engine). So yeah, it's an extremely hard sell to go in and replace a part that appears to be functioning normally with no way of TESTING whether it NEEDS to be replaced or not. If the truck was throwing a fuel related CEL that pointed to the pump I'd have a new one in by tomorrow.

This is why I bump this thread once in a while. Seen a few people buy the new pump as suggested....none actually report any type of realized improvement afterward.

 

If it ain't broke don't fix it...

 

Oh. Then understand that you missed the clearly implied improvements, and then let me tell you that it is an OBVIOUS improvement, when the filter has been replaced. Let it be noted that most are doing this after such an extended amount of miles, that it is going to slowly degraded in performance that the owner has adapted to the timely change in performance. Never the wiser. Let me also point out that the fuel pumps are in most cases changed as well. Due the necessity of upgrade, or age on the original.

Even with the fewer that I have done, replacing with a factory replacement, the improvement in acceleration is far more than placebo.

Had we a sensor, you could watch the pressure change over time. Had you a UCON, you could see the adaptive increase to maintain a commanded amount of fuel, until it popped a code. Had you a standalone, you could watch the pressure drop, and create lean areas. Which all equates to problems. Compounded when injectors start to loose their intended atomization.

Realized "improvement" isn't fair. It is simply gaining back what has been lost.

If you feel it some form of snake oil, then don't change your air or oil filters either. All while realizing that the North American market doesn't have the fuel filter as a factory serviceable part. Yet other markets do. On the driver fender.