TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Well the reason the snorkel is just kinda sitting there is because the snorkel itself will not flow enough air to keep the supercharger happy. I had it all sealed up before the snorkel and it was great. Cold cleaner air all the time. We installed the supercharger and were testing it in the shop just revving it up and checking throttle response and such and we noticed the AFE box would suck in and kind of collapse. We just went wow cool. I pulled it out for the test drive and pulled onto the street and punched it and the thing just fell on its face. Absolutely no power at all, I let off the throttle and went damn. My buddy who is a MDT for Toyota and helped me install it looked and me and said "damn, too much power traction control kicked in and cut you off" I told him my truck doesn't have traction control and he went well shit. Pulled it back around to the shop and revved it a few times harder and then really noticed how bad the airbox was collapsing. Took the lid off and went for a drive. Ran like a champ. So I pulled all the sealant and expanding foam out of the intake where I had the snorkel sealed to it and it has been unsealed ever since. My snorkel is the early one people were using from the diesel Hilux, not the one that they finally came out with in 2015 for the 2005-2015. The one made for the truck has a much bigger body on it and supposedly not the massive restrictions in the elbows and corners going through the fender and to the airbox opening. I don't care if it is water tight. I have never intended it to be for water. Just a really good cold air intake and cleaner air than out of the fender where the liner has been cut up and fenders clearanced for 35's. I have tried to find out if the new one made for the truck would cover all the holes in the fender that are already there but not even ARB can tell if they will or not. And it is a $800 chance to take. My paint sucks and is coming off just from normal washing (found out truck was totaled before I bought it) so putting a new fender on would solve that but I still have the holes in the A-pillar. So it is mainly of no use now, as a snorkel. But I like the look and if it can force some cold air into the box so be it. That is why I have always left the lid gapped open a bit. Just to let it get air from somewhere and not to cavitate. I am sure the restriction in the snorkel is in the rubber formed tubing that goes from the snorkel body to the airbox hole. It is tiny.

 

Turns out I have had a "vacuum leak" for some time now. I had a pretty good size slit at the bottom of my URD intake elbow after the MAF that I just patched up today. AFR @ idle is now hanging around 14.3-14.2 now and the idle is a lot smoother than it previously was. Cruising AFR hangs around 14.60- 14.65 much better now. Once my patch job cures up better I'll give it hell and see where I really am at as a whole.

Needless to say I am much happier now.

 

You need to take some measurements of the snorkel to determine what the diameters are throughout its length and where if any are there.
You said the final bend is tiny where the snorkel meets the intake. I havent seen how a snorkel mounts up or how it connects to the intake but I'm sure you can find a nice silicone 90° bend in whatever size you need to mate the two together with the maximum size possible.
You will have to find the outlet size of the snorkel and inlet size of your intake but take a look here to see what I'm talking about.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/holset-turbocharger/?osCsid=fb6a0ac7f846887caeadf3d16e1ac638

Or here for reducers.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/reducer-elbow-p-148.html

 

In response to (leaks) from recent reading. Those that have full exhaust and their afr readings. Mine are constantly going up and down. So rapid I have no idea what an average really is. I could take a video if need be. Seems to run like a champ with this amazing y-pipe in the mix. Just unsure how to tell if I'm in the sweet spot or not. Soon to do some data logging for a custom tune. I'd like any trivial things resolved first. Next is my boost readings from my aem gauge and meth boost gauge. Quite a difference between the two. One reads 2.1 while the other reads 3.2 for example. The hose on the aem is quite stretched to fit on the fitting as its larger than everything else. Is there a specific type of hose I should be using?

 

For afr try just looking at the whole number not the fractional number. Mine fluctuated continually between 14 and 15 out of boost and I consider it normal. I saw @5thGearPinned's do the same thing with the same header and gauge.

Do the boost gauges have the same pressure sensors? If so try swapping them to see if your reading changes from one gauge to the other or if they stay the same. You could also try swapping the lines that go to the pressure sensors and do the same test as above to assist you in isolating the difference between the two.
I would think vacuum line would be fine for boost reference tubing.

 

If I remember right guys 14.3-14.2 is what your actual AFR needs to be for E10- E15 fuel which is what we are using in the majority of the state's nationwide. If you are still using full strength gasoline undiluted with ethanol 14.7 is optimum AFR at idle.

 

The meth gauge has an internal sensor as it only has a tube coming from it. That tube is connected to a T with the aem gauge. And one line connected to the s/c. Thanks for the # confirmation. Appears I'm all good!

 

I also apparently messed up buying plugs. I got the 24's instead of 22's. Dare I install what I have or should I buy the 22's?

 

If you are under 400HP I would advise you run the 22's, hotter plug will last you longer and give you a more complete combustion.

 

Crap. Well, better order the right ones as long as it's a party to swap these with the s/c on the truck. Thanks guys!

 

Pull one of the passenger side plugs and look at it. If it looks good then just get the same plug. If you are planning on smaller pulleys then you may want the 24's.
Meth may change all of that though as you are significantly cooling the combustion chambers with it.

 

I'm chomping at the bit to get my fuel pump and 2.6 pulley on. Hoping to get it going in a month or so. Meth is mild until wot. Guess I'm kind of a test bunny.

 

Just pull a plug and look at it. It's the only sure way to tell how YOUR truck is running.

 

Overdue pic @White lightning boosted



RPM about 1900 w/ 60 mph (speedo is off 10%, so that’s why it’s 56ish). That’s with 4.56 Nitro gears on 35’s

Also I have those clips sitting on my work bench ready to send out

 

Save some for me.

 

Waiting to get my 2.6” on too. Mechanic is trying to help me figure out my driveline vibe. He’s determined that it’s not in the suspension. We had previously balanced the driveshaft and replaced the carrier. Things appear to be pointing to the converter. We’ll see. Data logging continues.

 

Figured this would be a good place for this question.. When upgrading to 61lb injectors, does this eliminate the need to run a 7th injector since the new ones can flow more fuel? Seems like the answer would be yes.. Also seems like upgrading injectors would be a cheaper option than going the 7th route. Anyone with some knowledge, please chime in

 

7th injector is more for cooling the air going in. Like meth inj.

 

You have a UCON correct?
If you go with smaller than a 2.8 pulley you will need more fuel than the stock sc injectors can provide.
I have just the 61lb injectors and my injector duty cycle is now 75%ish at wot.
@HolyHandGrenade is correct in that the 7th will cool the intake charge some but I have no idea how much. It will also provide the added fuel necessary so you wouldnt need the 61lb injectors.
Basically either would work. I chose 61lb injectors while others have the 7th. Both work fine.