Nut breaker lubricant?

What the best spray to break frozen or stuck nuts/bolts?

 

I use PB Blaster (available at Lowe’s) or Kano Kroil.

 

Seafoam's Deep Creep.

https://youtu.be/st8dkGzJWtg

 

I use butane then an ignition source to make a flame.

 

Very mislead by the title of this thread.


I'll see myself out.

 

Me too...damn!

 

I like to use a fire wrench.

 

Sawzaw

 

.

 

PB Blaster, heat and an impact usually do the trick for me.

 

Kroil has always worked well for me. I can mix my own ATF/acetone but that stuff will evaporate out the acetone quite quickly unless there is 100% sealing.

 

Yeah, what he said.
Add TIME & PATIENCE.

 

There is no BEST penetrant to free frozen bolts/nuts. All of the products mentioned work, along with a dozen or more not mentioned. Spray on whatever you have - let it sit - spray again - let it sit - try and loosen. You may have to do this several times and as stated, be patient. Best to use a 6-point wrench/socket in order to keep from rounding bolt/nut and the longer the breaker bar, the more leverage you have.

 

Can't beat PB Blaster in my experience, and living in the rust belt I deal with lots of stuck nuts. Local company for me too. For best results I spray what I need to loosen straight away, then gather the rest of my tools and get all set up while it works its magic. Great stuff.

 

Here in NE Ohio we see billboards like this

 

Watch that video I posted and give it a try.

Seafoam Deep Creep will change your life.

 

https://youtu.be/Anyy-KaxlrQ

Sorry, someone had to do it.

 

Kroil is at the top of the list.
ATF and Acetone is a very close second choice.

After those two, just about any of the spray-on penetrating oils will work but PB Blaster is readily available. Sometimes the convenience of an aerosol can makes a spray on oil better than Kroil.

Time is your friend. If you have the opportunity to apply the oil long before you need to loosen the fastener, take advantage of that time.

Whenever possible, six point sockets are preferable to 12 point.

Some very rusted things are just NEVER going to loosen by conventional means (muffler clamps come to mind) and you are WAY ahead of the game if you skip all efforts to loosen them and go straight to cutting.

Things that may need to come apart at a later time should be cleaned and coated with some type of anti-seize compound when they are assembled.
For example, when I get a "new to me" vehicle, I remove the wheels and clean the mounting surfaces and studs. I apply a thin layer of grease to the surfaces that the wheels contract and the threads of the studs. The wheels are installed and the lug nuts are tightened with a torque wrench. That prevents a small problem like a flat tire from becoming a big problem.

 

I didn’t know that brake fluid was a good penetration fluid. Also didn’t know about ATF and acetone. Pretty cool!

I know there’s a gun lubricant people make themselves called “Ed’s Red” that is equal parts of ATF, acetone, kerosene and mineral spirits.

 

what nuts are u trying to break free? depending on what nuts u are trying to get off there is a lot of insight in which 2nd gen nuts are removable and which nuts aren't when it comes to rusted bolts and nuts