Nut breaker lubricant?

Brake fluid is not a great penetrating oil. It will damage paint, it attracts water and it doesn't penetrate well.

Ed's Red is a well known lubricant/cleaner used in the gun community but as a penetrating oil I would simplify the formula and just go with the ATF/Acetone mix or ATF/Kerosene mix. BTW the ATF/Kerosene mix is probably one of the oldest home made penetrating oils known.

 

Watched that video as well as his other one he refers to. Bummer he didn't include Blaster or LW in his second experiment, cause I agree a 1 hr test is far more realistic than 3 hr. I disagree with the dropper method though cause who does that? Not me. I reach for the can and spray.

I used liquid wrench for a while then switched to PB and for me PB was the clear winner, which is opposite his results, results vary I suppose. I actually haven't tried the Seafoam Deep Creep, I'd give it a shot next time I need to buy. I'd prefer to avoid atf/ acetone and brake fluid cause it's nasty stuff and way less convenient. For now I'm happy sticking with PB.

 

PBlaster
Kroil
ATF/acetone
mint oil
candle wax

These all work well but I find heat and cooling it off with one of the above will help better as when the part is cooling the oil is lubricant is sucked or wicked in.

Some times a nut breaker, air chisel, die grinder, grinding disk, dremmel tool, hack saw, sawzall etc is the better route

Experience will help you decide better on what to use

wd40 is not a lubricant, its a water displacer and its oils in the seekrit sauce evaporate quick, requiring it to be applied again to stop squeaks

 

Kroil when combined with a little heat is the best IMO. I've used every combo of fluids I can think of and I'm freeing corroded hardware almost everyday at work... I've had a lot of time to experiment with different things.

When I say a little heat I mean something like a high temperature heat gun. If you spray something with fluid and then use something with a flame like a torch, it will just usually burn off the fluid. A heat gun will get the fluid nice and thin and I feel it helps it penetrate... I usually heat until I start to see the fluid smoke.

The next best thing is just heating and cooling the piece you're working with without using any fluid. (Here its ok to use a torch) This tends to do the trick but can lead to other problems like re tempering the material and causing it to become easier to break.

 

Something has to be best. My experience is Kano or ATF/Acetone. Must add heat to the equation.

There have been so many writups that it was bogus.

I use heat because I remember in chemistry class they said heat increases all chemical reactions.

I have Kano, but have to make ATF/Acetone each time. I have used both.

Vintage antique stoves that I break free are much older than any of the nuts you are working on a Tacoma. Some of the 'newer' one are from the 50s-60s.
Patience has been the key.

 

Make sure it's legit beeswax and not paraffin. I use beeswax all the time at work. It works best on things that get hot, like exhaust hardware. Just dab a bit on the hot threads, wait for it to cool down then go to town. It also smells great.

 

Another vote for Kroil along with heat and when applicable an impact.

 

I missed that on the first read.
Really? That is good to know. I must try that one.

 

I've tried most penetrants and I've found that good old heat from an acetylene torch breaks em loose every time.

 

Penetrating oil of your choice, time and the longest breaker bar you can get. I have used a 3’ section of pipe as a handle extension.

 

Kroil......heat gun

everyone should have a can of Kroil.......

hell......I use it for cologne !

 

You'll know if it's hot enough, the beeswax will melt and turn clear and then it will disappear into the threads. It's pretty useful stuff in general. I've got a big bar of it that I use on the metal sliding surfaces of tools like my circular saw table or jigsaw base. I've also heard about it being used as a low strength thread locker for small fasteners. McMaster Carr sells it, but you'll probably find it cheaper from a local beekeeper.

 

Natural lube is the best!!!

 

If I know I'm going to be working on something stubborn, I'll hose it down with PB Blaster every couple of days for a week or so before I start. This works wonders.
And have good sockets and a good breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

 

Kroil

 

Sweet. My wife keeps honey bees so beeswax I got!

 

We have Beeswax. But thanks.

 

50/50 ATF and rubbing alcohol or acetone in a spray bottle, just keep it shook up. Old skool, but works REALLY well

 

Gotem