How to torque rear camber bolt?

I loosened the camber bolts on my 1st gen so I could replace my front coils and shocks but I don't see how I'm going to torque the rear camber bolt. There's barely 1/2" of space between the steering rack and the 22mm bolt to fit anything other than a hand wrench. A torque wrench with a socket is not going to fit.

Is there some special tool or trick for this?

From below:



From above:

 

Crows foot

 

When I did mine I just used the handle from my floor jack on my wrench to get leverage and did it with a bit of strength...I forget the exact torque value but it's like 110 ft lbs or something like that? The front side is easy to get a torque wrench on so I sort of based the amount of strength to use on how much that took.

 

Thanks, time to order crows feet.

 

Move the steering rack boot out of the way. YOu might even need to loosen the bolts on the rack too.

That's IF you really want to torque them. Or.... You could just do what most people do and push until the vein in your forehead pops out.

 

It's a 22mm. I bought a Snap-on one used on ebay for $17. You'll regret cheapening out on a budget crowfoot. But that's just my experience.

 

You only need to use a wrench to hold the camber bolt head, you should be tightening/torquing the nut on the other end. Generally when you have a bolt & a fee nut fastener, you tighten the nut & not the bolt. Also in this case you don't want to be tightening at the bolt head, do so changes the alignment since it's an eccentric.

 

This

Notice where the torque values are? Just get them nice and snug and head in for an alignment, going to need one anyway. Remind the alignment tech to torque them.

 

That's interesting. I would think that by turning the alignment cam nut you would be rotating the cam and changing the alignment?

Speaking of techs and tightening. Make sure they do tighten everything up. I had a cam alignment nut disappear on me in Baja last year. I had alignment done the week before. It was a holiday in Mexico so no dealerships were open. My options were drive 500 miles to La Paz and back or go North 700 miles to the next nearest Toyota dealership in El Cajon, CA. I was able to get nuts of the same size from a junk yard and made it work enough to drive the 700 miles. I had to rotate my tires after 300 miles because the alignment was so bad my tires were getting eaten.

 

You are correct, the nut/cam is one piece. It is "held" and the bolt is tightened.

 

Well I'll be damned. I've never removed my cam bolts yet to see how they look but judging by the photo in the FSM, it appears that the nut side is what adjusts the cam sincle the flats are on the inside of the nut & on that sleeve.

Would make more sense the other way around as like I mentioned, generally you tighten a free nut rather than the bolt. But what do I know, I'm not a Toyota engineer so they must have a good reason to design it that way. Yet they do list the torque value on that side?

 

Looking at OP's post again, I did this as well when I installed my OME coilovers. Will say this - never again, botched the hell out of my alignment (still was planning on an alignment but damn, really out of whack). Next time, I'll stick to the steps in the FSM. Videos floating around youtube talking about loosening the LCA to make installing the coilover easier - no, skip them. Would only do that as a last resort now.

As for actual camber/caster adjustment - see below (you do not adjust via the bolt head):

 

Yup, no need to loosen LCA bolts when installing new shocks/springs/coilovers. I never needed to when installing any ride heigtht suspension mods on any vehicle I've worked on. I used to lower cars all day long too.

The control arm bushings should be tightened at ride height to relieve unnecessary strain on the bushings when changing ride height. It is a good idea to loosen the UCAs when installing lifting then retighten when at ride height. Not need if not changing ride height. For the LCAs that'll get taken care of when you take the truck in for alignment after lift.

 

Yep, flats on sleeve keying it to the nut/cam end pictured at the very end of post below. Thread in itself is a good read on bushing stuff.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...gy-suspension-whiteline.394935/#post-10915122