Off-Roading with your Daily Driver?

Thank you sir! I'm ordering the dissent full system this week with side doors I'm just going to sell my bed rack locally(cab rack with side doors ) weight is my concern and it definitely fits the bill.

 

When off-roading bigger contact area allows the tire to find areas on the ground with better grip (friction).

Especially on rocks, a tire with a larger contact area can deform more with a larger contact patch. This allows the rubber to contour with the rocks (more traction).

 

Hidden in the mu? I think that's a little misleading (please provide source explaining otherwise). I think what you mean to say is the normal equation for friction is not accurate and breaks down under more complex or Mico level situations, like every Newtonian based law.

 

Hey OP, I remember when I bought my truck I said all I need is better tires. A year later that changed quickly. These trucks are capable as hell. This is also my daily but I wheel with it all the time and push it hard.

 

The advice to add full skids and sliders allude to the progressive approach I've taken. I drove my 2016 dead stock for a couple of years and read everything I could here. I drove what most here would regard as relatively light trails at first, not because the truck wouldn't do more, but because I knew my lack of experience could/would be expensive. As I learned more by going with others and reading more here, I developed a "loose" plan that I have been implementing as funds allow.

If I understand the OP correctly, my goal is similar if not identical: I wanted to be able to off-road consistent with my level of experience. I wanted to do this in a way that is safe for me, others around me, and in a way that protects my investment from needless expense/damage.

And I needed to have a vehicle that remained a great daily driver, make it through anything that *I* would want to drive, and tow our camper less than 200 miles a dozen times a year.

You need to take your time and make sure that what you do addresses YOUR needs. And by take your time I mean go off-road with knowledgeable people while you define limits. Than add what you need if you need to move beyond the limits of the truck as it is delivered.

Sequence for me:

1. Re-route exhaust - Cheap, helps avoid problems (exhaust damage) immediately by giving me about 1.5" clearance. A logical pre-requisite to adding skids when I was able.
2. Sliders - With the exhaust re-routed, skids or sliders were the next logical thing. I went with sliders first because even on fairly easy trails the rockers are vulnerable. Other people would do skids first, and for them they wouldn't be wrong. I *did* do the front skid ASAP also. Mobtown.
3. Light Recovery - Hitchlink (tow from rear), tree protector, 2 hard shackles, 2 soft shackles, recovery rope, tow rope (not the same).
4. Skids - With the sliders on and exhaust re-routed, skids were next. You can go either all at once or starting front to back. elected to go with just the front IFS for now. Mobtown.
5. Recovery/Front bumper/winch - As with all the others, totally optional for many types of "off-roading". As for me, I want to be able to both help myself, and when roading with others, provide some of the tools to work as a group. Southern Style Off-Road and Warn. Now is also the time to consider a Hi-Lift and associated stuff.....IF and only if you learn about using one. Learn everything you can about recovery; using the tools safely is the only thing that counts. Some excellent threads on this site in the recovery section (and elsewhere).
   
6. Battery/air - Will probably exchange the current battery for a group 31m when the factory one dies and add an on board compressor. Arb dual.
   
7. Suspension - Now with that extra weight in place I am looking at adding an OME BP-51 kit with Dakar leafs or comparable; looking to get 1.5-2" lift from stock height, but mostly compensation for the added weight while keeping a nice ride quality. If I could do without a winch, heavier battery and on board air, and didn't pull a camper or have a lot of weight in the bed, I would probably do something much cheaper; and I think I'd be happy.
8. Tires/wheels - Might want/need along with suspension due to 16" vs 17". Pay attention to weight. I'm doing them at the same time and not earlier.

Just my approach to "doing it as I go".....

 

Woah, those are sick wheels! I don't think I've come across those before. What are they?

 

Black rhino armory. They have a new version that looks even better in my opinion.

 

Thats a pretty cool story... in my brief experience off roading (only 2 times), I have noticed people being extremely friendly and helpful out on the trails. I was amazed at how nice everyone was.

Nice of you too do!

 

Probably the most bang for your buck is tires. Going to the biggest tire you can with the setup you have or after you lift it a bit will help you get over stuff, and going with a mud terrain or at a minimum an all terrain will give you good grip. Airing the tires down (I run 33s at 9-12 psi off road) will really help them grab on to rocks. Learning to pick good lines is essential. Doesn't matter how big your lift is, how much hp your engine makes, how much you spend, if you can't pick a decent line, you can still get stuck, break stuff, or watch someone with half the truck you have walk right through something you just had to be strapped out of. Oh yeah always have a strap and if possible go out with at least two trucks so when you have problems you can help each other.

 

Absolutely killer rig.

 

I would respectfully disagree with best bang for buck being tires. I've done two vehicles now going wash route. I've been happier and more confident with trails when I did skids first on factory size tires than with bigger tires and no skids. The underbelly and side rock panel area on our trucks are very vulnerable. Picking a good line helps avoid stuff for the most part. But one slide off that line without a skid and rock sliders will ruin your day out quick. Crushing an oil pan, trans pan, or transfer case are not cheap. So that's why in my opinion and experience I always recommend armor first then suspension and tire upgrades. And then as far as all terrain vs mud terrain I was actually more impressed by my falken AT2 than these new mud terrains because I do more dry rock and dirt trails than anything eith mud. Which that is determined by the trails you ride. We went to gilmer, TX for Toyota jamboree in may and it was a muddy mess and for that one weekend I liked the mud terrains. Then we went out July and August to hidden falls in marble falls, TX and was not impressed with my mud terrains and wish I stuck with their new all terrain. There are two arguements on which tread pattern. Some say you want lugs to grip the rock and pull you over and other say the extra contact patch of an all terrain gives more area to contact the rock therefore gives you more friction. I've heard of guys going to moab with racing slicks since it's all contact. Again think where you'll do most of your off roading as to which tread type you go with.

Not here to get into arguements but just give advice and my own experiences. .... in short my confidence off road comes from armor protecting my essentials and not as much from my lift and tires.

 

Armor first has my vote also; it just seems practical to *me*. But even if you get it don't let it bait you into situations you don't have the experience or help to do safely.

If you can take up ColoradoTJ on his offer. His story is a fine illustration of the value of the guys that have been there. I'm not yet one of those, but I'm keeping my eyes and ears open in the hopes I get there without TOO much drama. I'm enjoying being a "follower".

 

Thank you!!!! I have a couple of unmotivated students in my 7th grade science class and you’ve given me a great idea for maybe getting them interested in doing research on it and doing on experiment to test this out!
Seriously- two of them like going offroading and talk about going to our local sand pit on holidays so it really may work.

 

Frame on rocks. Sometimes even the lesser of multiple evils still isn't perfect.

 

Thanks for sharing, but those pics aren't really close to what I'm doing. I go around rocks that big.

EDIT: Also, I should add that my idea of off-roading is probably a lot different from others here. I don't have a spotter, I'm not hitting crazy trails. I'm usually by myself and while I have gotten into a couple hairy spots, mostly the trails I've been on or likely to be on a stock OR can manage. I'm just looking to bump the capability a bit.

 

Ahh makes sense. Well then I would say bumping up to the bilstein 5100 up front to gain about a 2 to 2.5 inch lift. Depending on your budget that's a reasonable cost for a good gain. Again on factory coils but for another 170ish you could get the OME spring that fits your needs and the ride would be close to factory.

 

It seems to be coming down to either the 5100s all around plus new COs and AAL or maybe upgrade to the 6112/5160 combo. Not sure yet if there's any real benefit to me with the upgraded shocks but looking into it.

If anyone can help clarify, there a couple things I'm still trying to grasp:

1. Why would you lift the front but not the back? Wouldn't you look odd with the front up and back down and what's the benefit?
2. How do get the rear back to level or even slight rake? I'm assuming AAL but does one leaf make that much difference? Do I need something more substantial? How do you know what you need to begin with - i.e avoid too much or too little?
3. At what point do you have to start changing other suspension parts or diff drop? I don't want to do that. I've read 1.5" but if I understand right the 5100s and 6112s are either 1" or 2". Is 2" too much?