3.4L TRD Supercharger rebuild

Hi guys, I’ve been following this page for the last year or so getting ready for my rebuild. I haven’t yet installed my supercharger but figured since I have it off might as well rebuild it for piece of mind. With your help I got all bearings removed and now just need to order new ones. I’m looking at this kit on eBay and want to make sure it has everything I will need. Can you take a look and see if anything is missing and the last thing is my rotors have some carbon build up. I plan to run methinal kit and hope this fixes the problem. Has anyone come across this before? Pictures attached.

Thanks in advance

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Supercharger...ngs-Toyota-3-4L-5VZFE-TRD-Eaton-/113176325398

 

Some Carbon is normal on the rotors and can be stripped off. A methanol kit will probably eliminate the carbon on rotor, valves an throttle body.
This is my throttle body with 100,000 miles and shows no carbon build up because of my methonal kit.
When my supercharger goes in for the 625,000 mile rebuild I will see how it looks as I have about 40,000 with methonal kit now.
I would be safe and buy the parts from high speedlab or Jon Bond supercharger Company and get
a high temp Vic nose seal and up upgraded coupler and get the best made quality parts you can. I don’t know anything about those eBay parts, but definitely does not look like the high tem nose seal.
If your in there do it once with best stuff available.


Heat is what kills the nose seal and coupler if you go with a smaller pulley.
1 pound of boost creates 10 extra degrees of heat.

Oil that I use is a synthetic motor oil. You don’t need some “special expensive oil” you need to just change the oil every
30,000 miles if you want the bears to last regardless if they say the oil change is 100,000. It takes 10 minutes to change supercharger oil, Why would you leave it in there for 100,000
That’s my 2cents with 570,000 miles on my original supercharger.

 

Thanks for the quick reply.
Also do you have a recommended way of cleaning it?
Should I use carb cleaner and a metal brush or is there a better way to do it?

 

Just ordered my kit. Here is the parts list:
#STDSNOUTKIT03-V - $75 (Kit includes 2 OEM quality C3 fit high speed ball bearings, 1 premium nose seal, 1 tube of Permatex anaerobic gasket sealant and 2 bottles of GM supercharger oil)(I got the high performance Viton)
#INRBRG - $25 (Bearings inside the supercharger housing that your rotors ride on. They are sold as a pair of two prepacked with grease and for install)
#SCCOUPLER - $29.95 (Upgraded coupler made of a special oil impregnated nylon for long life and excellent chemical resistance)
Shipping was another $8.95 total paid came out to $138.90

Let me know if I'm missing anything.

Ill upload a video later tonight of how I pressed out the rear bearings incase anyone want to see.

Edit: Here is the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6seifjOqLA

 

I picked up a used 1st gen (gray) super charger and install it yesterday.

The previous owner had it for a year and never installed it. He’d purchased it from someone else who rebuilt it.

I have a 2003 3.4L with 233,000 miles. Prior to SC install I did a compression check. Everything checked out. Truck normally runs like clockwork.

The truck starts right up but the idle is all over the place. With the adjuster cable off the bracket (I’m. Not 100% sure this is the correct bracket) it idles at 400 RPMs. In the pic below there’s a red spacer that came with the SC. The supplied bolts won’t fit without the spacer. The extra width between the throttle cable bracket and the throttle body might be contributing to the high idle?
With the throttle adjuster reattached and adjusted to it’s lowest point it idles anywhere from 1,100-4,000 rpms. I put it in neutral at a stop and it reved to almost redline. I can feel the truck pushing against the brakes.

The idle is also very rough. It smooths out at higher rpms.

I haven’t pushed the truck to WOT yet but I’ve given a couple decent runs to 4K rpms. Afterward there’s a strong smell of gasoline. I found this thread about fuel leaks. In addition to the SC I put Cooler plugs in.

I cleaned the MAF.

Checked all the vacuum lines. I followed the diagram above. I believe everything is in the correct location.

The throttle cable is not attached to the bracket on the SC in this pic.


I followed the diagram in this-
http://www.pballandmore.com/Download/1st_Gen_TRD_Supercharger_Install_Guide.pdf

I also got a CEL and these codes-

 

Not sure what’s up with that red spacer, could be your idle issue, I would get some stock screws
from dealer and do away with the spacer for now.
Make sure your fuel line to the rail was not loose or leaking,
Also check your vacuum line to the charcoal canister from the supercharger. If these lines are incorrect you could have gas smell

 

My thoughts as well.
Odd thing is the threads on the super charger are different than stock.
I’m sure I can get shorter bolts that will work.

 

Mmmmm, just make sure the threads are the exact size and pitch as the supercharger threads,
You don’t want to strip out the threads on the supercharger side because they don’t match when you torque it down

 

Do you have the updated pulley tensioner?
https://www.urdusa.com/magnsuon-dynamic-tensioner-kit-for-5vz-fe-3-4l-v6-supercharger/

 

No, it’s older static one that uses the alternator tensioner.

Edit: for some reason I thought those were like three hundred something dollars vs the linked one for $177

 

Exactly what John said. Maybe the fuel rail got loose when you were installing it. When I installed mine I had the idle problem. I did a bunch of maintenance the same day I Installed the blower so the next morning I looked at all the lines again and the low rpm ended up being the supercharger not torqued down properly.

 

.

I took the Super Charger off yesterday and found the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator broken. I had to replace that line anyway as it still had the rigid stock line attached.
Could this be causing the crazy idle as well as the fuel leak?

I took the super charger off and returned the truck to stock for now. After all the stock stuff was back on the truck runs fine and no gasoline smell. I'll put the super charger back in a few weeks.

I'm going back to plan A....spend a lot more time on research. Get new vacuum lines, give the super charger a thorough going over. Possibly purchase a 7th injector kit now instead of later. Find the proper throttle body bolts to remove the red spacer thing. I also really need new valve cover gaskets. And lastly give the engine a good cleaning before doing anything. It's super gross. The valve covers have coating of dirt and oil and the engine bay in general is disgusting.

 

Yup , that’s definitely where the gas smell would be comin* from.
As these trucks add miles and years it’s best to replace as many of those vacuum lines as possible
with the supercharger off. Any vacation leak will cause supercharger problems for not working correctly

 

I took the supercharger I bought apart today just to double check it.
All the bearings are new along with the coupler.
When I got the rotors I found this.

The inside cylinder part looks so so.

 

That sucks, when the rear needle bearings go out the rotors slip out of position and will hit each other.
Looks like that might have happened and something might have broken off and messed the rotors up too
That’s why it’s best to rebuild every 150,000 miles regardless

If you can return it

 

For sure. It seems like the rebuild is easy enough just do it more often. 150,000 miles is a pretty long time for most people.

It’s the gamble I took for buying used.

The housing looks decent. It has slight scoring but just barely.

John Bond has refurbed rotors for $400. I wasn’t really planning on that but it’s either that or eat the money I already paid.

https://jonbondperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=137

 

Typical the snout bearing will go out first. When it does start to make noise you do a complete rebuild, not just the snout bearing.
If the snout bearing is new then he just replaced that bearing. I have almost 600,000 miles on my grey supercharger and 150,000 has been my sweet spot for rebuilding time frame.

 

Try to get the scoring fixed if possible, you might end up loosing boost depending on how deep
the scoring is. You could have it sanded down and then have it thermal coated to fill in the gaps

 

That sounds like a good plan.

 

You may as well do it right this time the first time even it is cost a few bucks more.