Resurfaced rotors at 10k service

yes they turned them and they didn't use the term warped, just out of spec.

 

My rotors needed to be resurfaced the last time I went in as well. I had vibration up front after a trip to Big Bear. SA said they'll replace the rotors under warranty if it happens again.

I'm sure they overheated on the way down the hill. I didn't think I was riding the brakes too much but who knows. I've since started using the gearing to keep my speeds down when descending longer hills when I'm that heavy. Haven't had the vibration return yet.

 

3

 

Driving habit 100% plays a factor. If you brake extremely hard and your pad/rotors get really hot and you are at a stop light sitting on the brake pedal, it will heat the rotor and cause it to warp over time. Ask anyone who races/tracks a car and they will tell you the second those wheels stop moving you should be off the brake when coming in to pit.

 

Mine felt this way since 50 miles on the odometer. Had 4 miles on the odo when delivered. I babied the test drive and thereafter.

 

Did you break in the rotors and pads on initial delivery?

 

I drove it like every vehicle I've ever driven in my entire life. Never had an issue before

 

Seems like you got yourself a trip to the dealer!

 

Turning the rotors reduces mass and reduces the ability of the rotor to dissipate heat, which will cause your pads to wear more quickly. I would always insist on new rotors. Torque spec is 83 lb/ft. and should be tightened in three or four passes in a cross pattern to gradually bring the entire wheel into torque spec. You never want to put one lug nut on, torque it and move to the next. When I picked up my OR in July, 20 of the 24 lugs were at around 50 lb/ft, two were right on and two were drastically overtightened. If your rear brakes are really hot, pulling the parking brake hard when park can warp them as well, from the shoes pushing out in just two places with no drum rotation.

 

I do.

But to be on the prowl that all these issues are driver related is probably a losing battle. Mine definitely wasn't user caused.

 

The majority of brake and clutch related issues with 'most' vehicles are usually driver related. Of course, there are exceptions and bad parts, which is why car manufacturers offer an warranty. No vehicle is perfect, whether its 30k or 150k. The bottom line is car manufacturers are getting the cheapest materials for cars that they can. It's just business.

 

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

 

Unrelated to brakes, I also have some wind noise in the cab at 40+ mph. Almost sounds like the windshield wasn’t sealed correctly.

 

Can I complain about random stuff too? The AC vents point at my hands so when I run the AC cold it makes my hands cold and they hurt. Should I trade my truck in?

 

I had the same problem when I got my 2014 tacoma I have now..... dealt with the crap of it for 35K miles, turned the rotors - wrapped them again at close to 50K miles.... then went to Stop Tech via. Amazon. Needless to say... I never had any of these issues on my old 09' taco....

 

"If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over."

"Other than proper break in, as mentioned above, never leave your foot on the brake pedal after you have used the brakes hard. This is not usually a problem on public roads simply because, under normal conditions, the brakes have time to cool before you bring the car to a stop (unless, like me, you live at the bottom of a long steep hill). In any kind of racing, including autocross and "driving days" it is crucial. Regardless of friction material, clamping the pads to a hot stationary disc will result in material transfer and discernible "brake roughness". What is worse, the pad will leave the telltale imprint or outline on the disc and your sin will be visible to all and sundry."

 

Never mentioned anything about trading the truck in and in the OP wind noise was mentioned.

 

Agreed, although being a torque nazi myself, I do it in two steps as well as backing them off and retorquing if any shop touches them. We've had smoooth braking since the paper thin rotors on our gone and forgotten Dodge Stratus.

 

But do you hear that? That’s the Complain Train pulling out of station. You gotta be careful or else the whole thread turns in to a flood of pointless complaints that have a simple solution or user error 75% of the time.

 

I keep putting gas in but it keeps disappearing after driving a while. I clocked 20 miles and a gallon was gone already. I think it comes with a leak from the factory. WHAT HAPPENED TO TOYOTA QC?