Help - New Leak

A new leak showed up today. Hoping you guys can tell me what it is and how to fix it myself. Its located by the passenger side tire near the oil pan.
Sorry I don't know why the pictures are so big.
I forgot to say its a 2005 Tacoma TRD OR.

Thanks

 

Axle seal

 

You will need to pull CV axle and replace seal. Not too difficult of a job, just have to be careful removing and installing new seal to not scratch/damage mating surfaces. Seal is like $15 from the stealership.

 

Thanks guys for the quick response. Axle Seal. Now I know what to google and begin my research.

 

YouTube videos involving the ECGS bushing usually touch on this topic as part of the process.

 

Thanks that was really helpful. It covered the whole process up to the Axle Seal, but not including it. But it doesn't look that difficult.

 

Are these all the parts I need to do the Axle seal replacement?

$11 Toyota Genuine Oil Seal for Differential Side Gear Shaft

90311-47013 - passanger side axle seal
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GFI2GWG


35mm axle nut

$16 ABN Axle Nut Socket, 35mm, 1/2in Drive, 6 Point – Universal for All Vehicle 6pt Installation, Removal, Repair

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Axle-Soc..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=JWRJB5NQHDT1Z8QCPKS0


Seal Puller:

$24 ARES 70693 - Seal Puller with Dual Hook Tip Design - Remove Oil and Grease Seals on Cars, SUVs and Light Trucks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F15YY5...&pd_rd_r=11923535-b4a8-11e8-b9b0-b9c4745829eb

 

Yep besides torquing things to spec. There’s a way to pull inner CV axle by just removing two bolts for lower ball joint and moving entire hub assembly out of the way. No axle nut removal. But I have not tried it.

 

How many miles do you have on the truck? Shouldn’t that be covered by the 60K mile power train warranty?

EDIT: Never mind its a 2005, I read 2015 first time through.

 

Pack some grease into the back of the seal where the little spring is before you install it. The grease will help keep the spring in place when you're tapping on it

 

Yep 2005 135,000 miles.

any how, I have never had good luck with trying to get warranty work done at Toyota. The dealership always finds a way to get out of of fixing the work. Like accusing me a lying or continuously cancel/rescheduling so many times I give up.

 

Thanks I will do that

 

I just ordered it all. It only costs $40 free shipping.

 

I'm working on it right now. The bottom of the knuckle has two bolts. The smaller of the bolt I believe is called the tie rod. It has a rubber boot on the bolt. I was banging on it with a hammer to knock it loose and I hit the rubber boot. It now has a pretty cool whole in it. How bad did I screw up? Can I replace just the rubber part?

 

That tie rod end might wear a little prematurely, but it’s not ruined. You have to keep an eye on it though. If debris and water get in the boot and rust the joint, it’ll go south real quick. You can get a needle attachment for a grease gun and keep fresh grease in there. That does kinda suck though. Changing a tie rod end is not very hard. You could replace it if you wanted.

The “proper” approach would have been to rent a tie rod separator from an Autozone for free.

 

I made the same mistake with the Stabilizer bar link. The rubber boot on that is poked through too. The nut kept on spinning so I tried to grab the other end with pliers. The pliers must have made the whole.

 

Winter is almost started. We get lots of snow and mud. I can guarantee water and dirt will get in there. Plus its leaking fluid. So I have to replace the whole tie rod then?

 

The new axle seal is in!!

One more question. At the bottom of the hub or knuckle there was a 24mm nut I removed accidentally. When trying to put it back on the bolt, the bolt just spins. Any advice on that? For removal I was hitting it with a hammer. I hope I didn't damage the bolt or threads.

 

The stabilizer links are not nearly as important. You just don’t want them getting so corroded that they fall off and do damage to your cv axle.

As for the tie rod, I think that you can just replace the end you damaged, not the entire unit. The other end goes into the the steering rack and you need a special tool to remove it. The end you damaged should just unthread, and you can put a new one on. But it’s postition is critical, as in # of turns. It’ll mess with your alignment.