New England B.S. Thread

It looks like it would go that way

I think i see the domed end down in the caliper i removed...I am wonder what the heck this part number is...

 

I think I'm a goober here I just looked in the other caliper and it looks like the piece is already in there so it must've just fallen out of the AUtozone caliper

 

See if you pull the old one out of the caliber you replacing.

 

Even better, that piece I had just fell out of the threaded hole on the new caliper. It's all together now and NO LEAKS YET


I was just looking up the Ft/lb torque of the skid control wire bracket that I had to remove to get the brake line in properly..ha..it's 9 ft/lb....I think I got that by hand..

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's 7, or at least I think it used to be. I like them, Scott's a good honest guy.

 

I honestly never knew how they balance the tire until you asked today and I looked it up on YouTube. I never realized there were a little weights crimped on to the inside of the rim but I saw them today when I took my tire off.

 

For all the beer guys here....

 

Blatant pandering

 

Fatality at the Cape...
https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/man-cape-cod-killed-first-fatal-shark-attack-2015-n909916

 

Just watching ass all weekend.

 

I just replaced my calipers again (bought brand new ones from Advance 2 years ago and they already had stuck pistons , thankfully they have a warranty), and I don't ever remember a piece like that. Unless it fell out of the caliper (I didn't see it on my truck's calipers), that piece does not go on our trucks.

 

It's all set that actually goes inside the threaded hole on the caliper where the stainless steel brake line connects. It's the mating piece for the flared break line end.



Follow up I need to bleed my brake lines now. Can I just chalk the wheels( already chalked just for FYI because I have it up on jackstands in the front ) pop the E break off and bleed the back wheels on the ground and then leave the fronts well I've got them up in the air. I have the front up on jackstands but I'm wary of raising the tail end and having the whole thing slide and fall my driveway has the tiniest slope to it and it's a little wavy.

 

Damned Dakar... Rusting that bad after one winter and fluid film...

 

The tires don’t need to be off the ground to bleed the brakes. Usually, it’s a 2 person job, crack the bleeder, have the person in the cab press the brake, close the bleeder before the pedal is bottomed out. I’m sure there are YouTube videos that explain it much better than I did. Start with the wheel that’s the furthest away from the reservoir.

If you’re doing it by yourself, you either need a vacuum bleeder or, keep the reservoir over full and barely crack the bleeder furthest from the reservoir and let gravity do it’s thing. Then work your way around the truck to the caliper closest to the reservoir. Takes some time, but can be effective. You have to barely crack the bleeders though somair doesn’t go back in. You also have to keep the cap off the reservoir.

 

Yeah...The weird thing people don't seem to address is key position...I'm guessing acc position, engine NOT started and wheel movable? I'll have my wife or completely disinterested kid to help me in the morning. I have plastic on the ground under the new set ups watching for drips overnight...Fingers crossed...

I'm going to pop the tires off and move the pins around once in a while, maybe back them out, coat them in silicone grease and put them back in every spring to keep it from getting to that nightmare situation again.

The brake pads I bough had the noise shims already attached...I was looking all around thinking I misplaced them..

They look amazing now...of course they will be rusted to hell in a few weeks...Manual transmission and lots of downshifting...so let's hope I can get 150K out of these like the originals...

 

I got the "TSB undercoating" done last fall...and um...yeah...it's all flaking off and if I don't use a 2x4 between the jack/jack stands and the frame it will just all flake off...

 

Pretty sure I've always done it without keys, it's just a hydraulic ram and the driver's foot is the pressure. It will work without keys at all.

Also, you get some lube on those caliper pins? They look really clean.

 

If you weren't too pressed for time putting things back together, you should have spray painted them before putting them on/brake pads in, to keep the rust at bay (for a while anyway, that's what I did to both sets of my new calipers, and they held up okay for a couple of years).

 

If you got 150K out of the original pads and rotors then you deserve new calibers aslo!

I Would've patented mine!

How many clutches?

edit
I don't see any Neverseize on those shiny pins!

 

The pins are all gooped up with SuperLube...High temperature silicone stuff...Good for that type of thing...I only had 1 packet of brake grease that was enough for 4 pads and their edges...and then I found the free packet that AutoZone threw in with the caliper

I bought the truck in 2012 with 78K on it. I had a 9 mile commute from 2012 until 2016 and then now I have an 80 mile commute...Still original clutch KNOCK WOOD...the only issue is it has the "clutch chirp" that tacomas have when you press it. I am a very deliberate shifter...And I downshift like mad for braking...If I don't have to touch the brakes I won't...I let the compression do the work...

Yeah...I thought about it but I was getting too far behind. It seems pretty easy to do though...very tempting