What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Arb compressor was leaking from everywhere so arb sent me an oring


Not it doesn’t leak at all and held pressure for over an hour


Got around to filling this in. Won’t last but should be good for a little bit

 

I wanted to until I found out what was involved, found a thread by @nzbrock. I forget but something like needing to swap in T4R window motors & passenger side window switch, then add wiring. But it's auto up too, not just down.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4runner-auto-up-down-windows.380826/

 

His question had my post quoted in it. Took your response as yet another suggestion to use the proper tool. No need to get pissy. Maybe YOU should read the conversation?

 

Electronic boost control solenoid and boosted air temp sensor near throttle body= one pissed off eBay turbo

 

Can anyone identify what this wire harness is for? (Comes out below factory amplifier) This is in a limited 2000 4runner..


Also what is this smaller cord below? I just pulled the PO’s old radio he installed and this was unplugged along with the wire harness above.. (I know the bigger one is the antenna..)

 

Cops ever pull you over for it?

 

Haven’t had any problems

 

It's really not that difficult, you just need the window motors, driver and passenger switch, and add 2 wires from driver to passenger side.

 

@nzbrock

Just out of curiosity, do you have to reset the jampro function (auto down for pinch prevention), every time you disconnect the battery? I know the newer vehicle winows/sunroofs learn the limits on their own during normal usage, but I think the older systems had to be taught each time.

My truck has manual windows, so I can't test it.

 

Got home late last night- got to make up time from last week's "hurricane".

Luckily, my driver's side window regulator assembly was there waiting for me. Took all of about 30 minutes to install, most of that trying to realign the door pull and the armrest bolts on reassembly.

Philliip's screwdriver, 10mm socket, short extension, and ratchet. 8 bolts, I think it was. Lower the window till you see the bolts holding the glass in place (there's an access hole low in the door). Remove those two bolts. two more hold the fixed side of the parallelogram linkage to the door skin. Four more hold the motor in place. Now five or six screws hold the speaker in place. Remove them, access the motor leads. slide a knife under the lock tab and disassemble. Pull out the old, R&R with the new parts. Best $35 I've spent on a vehicle in years.

 

Maybe check the fuel pump? If you have whe Walbro it’s a piece of shit. The check valve in my last one didn’t even work from day one and the lower fuel got the more crazy my fuel trims seemed to get. I replaced it with the same one and it still has the heat, noise, surge issues my last one had. But it does have a few less issues.

 

For anyone that has seen my last post on a strange noise I heard it again this morning. This time immediately after starting. Which is when you would get a belt squeal.

I still wasn’t in time to pop the hood and try to pinpoint it but I believe it’s either a belt or god forbid a external bearing somewhere. It sounds like a rapid creaking then goes away.....I suppose it could just be a belt? I’ve only
Ever heard them squeal, not creak....

 

It sounds almost like it could be a cracked flexplate on an automatic.

 

I believe that the sound wouldn’t go away if that was the case.

 

Fuel pump is my next step. I hate to hear that about the Walbro, but it seems I've heard not great reviews about it in the past. Does anyone have any good suggestions for an aftermarket fuel pump? I'd happily buy OEM, but I'm afraid I'd just have to replace it again in the future if I ever get to boosting.

 

When I gain the courage to attempt doing it agin I’ll either go deatchwerks or OEM along with water/meth.

 

Could be a pulley bearing. They are pretty easy to swap out. Providing you have a way to press them out.

 

No I don’t have to reset it each time. I think you might have to if you disconnected the battery with the window down or halfway down though.

 

There's a write-up on here somewhere... It's possible to do if you use a 4Runner master switch and wiring.

IMO it's more trouble than it's worth. You need to a lot of wiring to get it to function.

 

You need an additional hot wire to run to the switch, which doesn't have the provisions for the auto up/down.