Archery Talk

Making arrows is just so satisfying.

 

Ok, then my peep is off. I feel like im searching for it each time.

 

Find your sweet spot with your peep and then realign your entire site box “circle”, not the pins them selves. Then see where your pins land. It is a little bit of dance between the pines and the side box to find where it needs to be

 

Keynote, make sure you don’t move your sight box so low that the fletchings of your arrow are going to hit the bottom of the sight box

 

So since I notice your bow pic initially there is a reason they don’t fully serve it in from the get go. They want to string to stretch and settle. Best thing for you to do is keep shooting until you are ready feel the peep isn’t going to move at all...

Go to Hoffman’s and have them permanently serve the peep in. They will make sure you have the perfect peep position based on you anchor point etc. That will keep it from moving up or down and it will be locked in placed. Next, you need to reshoot all you yardages and you may have to make minor adjustments up or down. It shouldn’t be too far off, but you gotta make sure it’s still shooting well once they move it.

These are just some downsides to buying a new bow this close to the season. You may seem like you are having to rush but you gotta do it to get it dialed in effectively. It will be worth the extra shooting plus that way you work out your arms and shoulder more and get all jacked!!!

 

I want to make sure I add one Tactical note, you’re only moving the site box first, if you already have your pin/pins in the general location that you would want them to be when vieving through your site box

 

Please dont post pics of me. Lol

 

Forgot to ask, who is using AAE vanes? I really like them. I've used the Max Stealth and Max Hunter so far. Zero issues.

Their glue also works great.

 

I’d like to slightly amend my previous post about aligning your peep. Your actuall much better off t remove your sight from the bow when you do this. We have a tendancy to subconsciously move our heads to align with the sight. So remve tour sight and do like I said before with tour eyes looking steait ahead when you open them. Then you’ll see more accurately whether the peep needs to be moved up or down.

 

Just want to throw this out there. Check and double check your draw length. Often times we are trying to fit to a bow, when the bow should fit to us. Head should be straight up, no scrunching, bow arm, shoulder, draw arm shoulder and elbow should form almost a perfect "T". Draw length being off can cause a myriad of probs including "searching" for your peep.

 

Depending on the bow sometimes hard to have head erect anymore. If you’re using your nose as an additional ancor and have a short ata bow string angles make it difficult

 

Absolutely

 

Which can also lead to premature releases because you never get to full draw or you’re overdrawn the bow which upsets it also

 

Please don't take this the wrong way, but form shouldn't be bow dependent. Yeah, we may grip slightly different, but overall form should remain the same. If you (we) need to bend our head or scrunch to touch nose to bow string, your rear anchor including where your release hand rests at the corner of your jawbone (at least for me) is going to move and not be consistent or induce torque.

That's why I'm not a fan of short ATA bows. I would venture a guess most bowhunters use their nose as a touch point and the shorter bows have acute string angles which can cause a lot of shooters to try and "fit" the bow. One of the exceptions is the Mathews Triax with them big cams. String angle is comparable to a longer ATA bow. Me? I'm a fan of 32-34" ATA bows. Seems a decent compromise between shorter bows and string angle.

 

Yes ancor is at the jawbone and you are correct. I have seen too many though who wanted me t set drawlength too long just so their head could be strait up. This is also why I shoot 36” bows for conpetitions and hunt wirh a Wake which is, i think, 35” been a while for me since I could really shoot. In the end everyone needs to figure out just what works best for them. There is no exact way this needs to be done. Kinda like building these trucks.

 

I shoot a Z7 Xtreme and it’s a super short ATA but it really depends on consistency. I tried a kisser button for a couple of days and I shot just as good if not better without it.

Hand technique, consistent anchor point and aligning your peep and sight circle are probably the highest priorities. Lining your nose up is not really important if your peep is at a perfect spot and you continue to use that same technique each time. Hand, anchor, peep you cannot go wrong as long as you know how to shoot without punch the trigger etc.

I’ve robin hooded enough arrows to know it’s all about consistency and knowing when to let the arrow fly. All the other things are important but nothing matters without consistency. It should be more muscle memory than cognitive memory.

 

exactly! I had so much issues with my first real bow, turns out most of it was it was too long of a draw length. I scraped my forearm with the string a couple of times and I took it to this gal that since retired from the bow business but she knew her stuff! She got me set up and Ive been shooting good for me...but have yet to scrape my forearm! Thats why those forearm protector things are bogus! If you have your draw length right it wont scrape you!

 

Farron was great, helping get me set up.
Busy as all get out, injured knee, and still took the time to dial me in and make adjustments.

 

So, bear with me,
W/ my recurve I would anchor almost off my cheek bone and tended to have a raised(45°)elbow.
For the compound im trying to anchor at the rear bottom of the jaw, am i trying to keep my elbow down and mostly horizontal to the ground?

 

I just spoke with him today. i’ll be back in there as soon as I can but if you need a hand or any adjustments made or just want to shoot some give me a hollar.