1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Best way to improve brakes?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Redgrom, Jun 2, 2010.

  1. Jun 2, 2010 at 5:25 PM
    #1
    Redgrom

    Redgrom [OP] http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/29

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2010
    Member:
    #31150
    Messages:
    1,717
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brent
    san clemente
    Vehicle:
    4x4 taco and 96 ford bronco
    ATO front skid (need more but icon's might fail if I hang anything else from my truck) All-Pro front bumper thanks to a good deal here and a pesky encounter with a rock or 20, total chaos uppers.
    It has come time to do a little break work on my tacoma, after reading countless threads here I need a little help deciding where to start. I definitely need new pads (if I only do pads think I will replace with oem) but am thinking of doing the slotted rotors and hawk pads. A few threads have stated this is for looks only and adds little to no stopping power. Would I benefit more from new pads and rotors or maybe new pads and stainless brake lines? I also plan to change the fluid while I am at it as it has 60k on it and probably should be replaced.
    Thanks
     
  2. Jun 2, 2010 at 5:32 PM
    #2
    Redgrom

    Redgrom [OP] http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/29

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2010
    Member:
    #31150
    Messages:
    1,717
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brent
    san clemente
    Vehicle:
    4x4 taco and 96 ford bronco
    ATO front skid (need more but icon's might fail if I hang anything else from my truck) All-Pro front bumper thanks to a good deal here and a pesky encounter with a rock or 20, total chaos uppers.
    Thanks for the quick reply, not expecting a miracle but always thought the tacoma's brakes were a little mushy. No need to stop on a dime and I don't trailer heavy loads but if I am going to do the brakes thought I would consider other options before I decide. Also how hard are the rotors to swap out on a 4x4? Did my old bronco years ago and the auto hubs were a pain. I know the taco is a different style but could not find a thread explaining how to remove the rotor.
     
  3. Jun 2, 2010 at 5:36 PM
    #3
    OH-MAN

    OH-MAN Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2009
    Member:
    #16324
    Messages:
    2,305
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Steve
    Sunny Az.
    Vehicle:
    10 4X4 O.R. White
    TRD skid painted black,
    Tires and traction decide how much braking you can do.
    If they kick in the ABS thats as good as they will get for one stop.
    Now if you are running on a road course then you might need bigger and better brake to remove the heat. Otherwise OEM should be fine.

    If they are mushy more likely than not they could use a good bleeding.
    Fluid picks up moisture and needs to be changed to keep air out of the lines.
     
  4. Jun 2, 2010 at 6:06 PM
    #4
    bmgreene

    bmgreene Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2009
    Member:
    #26145
    Messages:
    2,810
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brian
    L.A. Westside
    Vehicle:
    2010 PreRunner V6 SR5/OR
    Alcan Leaf Packs, OME884 Coils, 5100 shocks, U.S. Offroad Winch Mount w/Winch, Trail Gear Rear H/C Bumper, Prinsu Cabrack, DIY custom in-bed storage/sleeping deck, Sway bar delete, hidden "snorkel" intake mod, In-dash CB, Bestop Supertop, Undercover Swingbox, hood lifters, assorted lights and front spotting camera
    steel lines will probably give a bit stiffer pedal feel but won't really change stopping performance.

    as others have said, slotted rotors and such are designed to help dissipate heat and reduce fade from high-frequency repeated application (such as during rally or road course racing). You might get more stopping force from bigger diameter rotors, but those will almost surely require new calipers and probably bigger rims and stickier/lower profile tires to get the whole benefit. Outside of that, stopping will be mainly a function of speed and wieght do get lighter (as a vehicle) and/or drive slower.
     
  5. Jun 2, 2010 at 8:35 PM
    #5
    WilsonTheDog

    WilsonTheDog Kylie's dad

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2007
    Member:
    #3496
    Messages:
    4,809
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Myrtle Beach SC
    Vehicle:
    07 Prerunner SR5 DC/SB V6
    Magnaflow 12576 muffler & chrome tip, Westin step bars, 27% tint, Pop N Lock, AFE ProdryS, bed mat, Husky liners, D-rings added, Access Literider tonneau, Pioneer 4-ways all around, GY Wrangler Duratracs 265/75/16, 5100's @ 1.75", 1.5" AAL
    I've done slotted rotors, Hawk pads, and SS lines on other vehicles (an Altima and an Explorer) and they definitely made an improvement (I actually measured before and after on the Altima). I will be doing the same here shortly as I'm at 41K miles and braking has definitely gone downhill a bit.
     
  6. Jun 2, 2010 at 9:05 PM
    #6
    Timber

    Timber Crankey Old Yacht Jockey

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2010
    Member:
    #31147
    Messages:
    235
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tim
    San Pedro Bay Ports
    just a couple comfort items.
    I stuck in a set of Centric Posi Quiet Pads from Wheelers And they make a noticeable difference. I did not turn the rotors or even bleed the brakes, Just a pad slap up front and a quick inspection and adjust of the rears. I have about 5000 miles on them and they seem to be getting even better. Like I said for just a set of pads up front, it made a big difference. If anything its a cheap way to get substantially better performance. If you want more you can try the rest of the suggestions as you see fit. I don't have many miles on them so I cant really comment on longevity but I am impressed so far!
     
  7. Jun 2, 2010 at 10:26 PM
    #7
    Tuner

    Tuner New Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2010
    Member:
    #38036
    Messages:
    4
    Gender:
    Male
    Las Vegas
    Vehicle:
    08 Prerunner V6
    I'll be into the front brake repair soon as well. Nothing special, just functional and not 4x4. Is there any mystery to removing the rotors or is just break the rust? Thanks
     
  8. Jun 3, 2010 at 9:23 AM
    #8
    Redgrom

    Redgrom [OP] http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/29

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2010
    Member:
    #31150
    Messages:
    1,717
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brent
    san clemente
    Vehicle:
    4x4 taco and 96 ford bronco
    ATO front skid (need more but icon's might fail if I hang anything else from my truck) All-Pro front bumper thanks to a good deal here and a pesky encounter with a rock or 20, total chaos uppers.
    Thanks for the help, anyone know who hard the rotor is to change on a 4x4? Is it the same as a 4x2?
     
  9. Jun 15, 2010 at 8:34 AM
    #9
    OCTaco

    OCTaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Member:
    #29321
    Messages:
    2,171
    Gender:
    Male
    OC
    Vehicle:
    '16 TRD Sport DCSB
    I just replaced my brake lines with goodridge ss lines and man it's a huge difference. Check our my sig for the group buy, anyone who has done this will tell you it's worth every penny.
     
  10. Jun 15, 2010 at 4:17 PM
    #10
    Chris(NJ)

    Chris(NJ) Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2010
    Member:
    #29777
    Messages:
    4,876
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Usually in Central Jersey
    Vehicle:
    08 Indigo 4x4 DC OR
    Mods are currently being changed .....
    Just do ss lines and new pads. Blank rotors are more than capable. The x-drilled/slotted are gimicky imo.
     
  11. Jun 15, 2010 at 4:21 PM
    #11
    Kelson

    Kelson Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2008
    Member:
    #6597
    Messages:
    4,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kelson
    Honolulu, Hawaii
    Vehicle:
    08 5-Lug Reg. Cab SR5
    SR5 Exterior/Interior (Color matched Front Bumper, Chrome Grille Surround and Chrome Rear Bumper/Silver Scoshe Dash Kit, A/C Bezel, A/C Vent Surround) LED license plate and white interior lights, Wet Okole Seat Covers, iPad in-Dash, JL CL-RLC, JL 13TW5 sub, JL 500/1 Slash V1 amp, JL XR 6.5 Components, Rockford Fosgate 6X9s in Boxes Front XRunner Coils, DJM Control Arms and Rear 4X4 Leafs, Custom 2" Angled Streetacos.com Blocks Front XR Bilstien Struts and Rear XR Bilstien Shocks, CravenSpeen Antennae, RX-8 Rims w/ Fronts:235/40-R18 Sumitomo HTR Rears:245/40-R18 Goodyear Eagle GT, 35% Tint front windows, OEM Sliding Privacy Glass w/ 5% Ceramic Tint, Flowmaster Super 44 dumped before the axle, URD Short Throw Shifter, Door Sill Protectors, Door Edge Guards, OEM Sport Pedals,The Retrofit Source Morimoto Mini D2S Stage III 35W 5K HID Headlights, OEM Fog Lights w/ piss yellow bulbs, OEM Cruise Control, Porsche 944 Bucket Seats, BeefedTaco Skid Plate, Whale
    BBK! o wait u have a 6 lug...bahahaha

    but yah drilled rotors are usually weaker and tend to crack...slotted are ok but don't make that much of a difference...
     
  12. Jun 15, 2010 at 4:32 PM
    #12
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2008
    Member:
    #8614
    Messages:
    9,120
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Ahwatukee, AZ
    Vehicle:
    BSP '10 4x4 TRD Off-Road DC
    See build thread in signature
    SS lines and a good bleed will do the most to resolve mushy pedal feeling. Pads can/will help with overall biting power.

    Drilled and slotted are as stated, more for preventing heat fade. They will eat your pads quicker, and the rotors will wear faster. You also need to be careful on how they slot the rotors so that they do not go to the edge. It was a pretty common issue with 3000GT's to have slotted rotors go to the edge only to literally explode on the track due to cracking on the thinner exterior part of the rotor. May not be an issue on our trucks, then again it might be I haven't looked into it. I'd still avoid it.
     
  13. Jun 15, 2010 at 4:48 PM
    #13
    SManZ

    SManZ Sold the Taco in June 2020

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2009
    Member:
    #22817
    Messages:
    1,365
    Gender:
    Male
    Fauquier County, VA
    Vehicle:
    Current, 2020 Ford Super Duty Tremor, Previously 2010 Supercharged 4x4 Tacoma Sport 6-spd
    TRD Supercharger, King 2.5" extended travel remote-resi coilovers, OME Dakar leaf packs, King 2.5" extended travel rear shocks, Total Chaos UCAs, MBRP turndown exhaust, TRD intake, TRD Quickshifter, Goodridge SS brake lines, EBC Sport Rotors, Hawk HPS pads, TRD FJ Cruiser Special Edition 16" Anthracite Rims, Spidertrax wheel spacers, 265/75R16 A/T, Autometer oil pressure, oil temp gauges, TRD boost gauge, PLX DM-100 OBD II scanner, flexpod mounts, A-pillar gauge pods
    +1 on the SS lines. If I had to choose one brake mod out of the 3 I've done, the SS lines would be it. They made a huge difference in my other cars and bikes as well.

    Like everyone has said, they won't stop you any faster, they will make the brakes feel firmer. If you need to replace pads anyway, might as well get Hawk HPS or similar pads.

    Cost for return, the SS lines make the most improvement in brake feel. I would do rotors last, if at all. They do make a small difference but for $200+ its not worth it unless you want to really go all the way.
     
  14. Jun 15, 2010 at 9:26 PM
    #14
    NelsonTacoma

    NelsonTacoma This is my derpawayinator!!!!!

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2010
    Member:
    #33969
    Messages:
    2,081
    Gender:
    Male
    Tucson, AZ
    Vehicle:
    06 PreRunner TRD Sport 03 4Runner Limited 4wd
    Bilstein 5100's , 6000k HID Hi/Low Kit, Magnaflow Muffler, 1.5 inch AP Wheel Spacers, Mudflap Delete

    The rotors are very easy to remove. Once you get the caliper off (it's held on by 2 17mm bolts) the rotor should fall right off, unless it's rusted on, then you'll need a hammer. Otherwise these brakes are just like doing brakes on any normal vehicle.
     
  15. Jun 16, 2010 at 6:29 AM
    #15
    WV_Tacoma

    WV_Tacoma Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2009
    Member:
    #19738
    Messages:
    259
    Gender:
    Male
    Huntington, WV
    Vehicle:
    05 Pre, DBL Cab
    Not enough
    Rotors.... work great if you are racing or towing.....will help reduce warping ONLY.......

    Padz........you'll never notice the difference other then noise

    SS lines....you'll never notice the difference....Ah well in your head you will....and they look cool

    I tested my brakes with OEM....55mph slammed them the floor board......Put all the above shit on the truck and tested again........did 3x per set and used the average................ THERE WAS AVERAGE OF 3 FEET DIFFERENCE EITHER WAY......

    The only way your going to get better feeling brakes, shorter stopping is to increase your ROTOR diameter AND or change the Calipers (4-6 pistons)!!!!!


    The better braking most are probably feeling is IN THERE HEAD...and the fact that just changing and bleeding the brakes made an improvement!!
     
  16. Jun 16, 2010 at 7:11 AM
    #16
    cdon38

    cdon38 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2009
    Member:
    #26497
    Messages:
    16
    Gender:
    Male
    texas
    Vehicle:
    07 tacoma sr5 prerunner trd
    What about changing the rear brakes from drum to disc, has anyone done this yet, and how difficult is it?
     
  17. Jun 16, 2010 at 7:34 AM
    #17
    OCTaco

    OCTaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Member:
    #29321
    Messages:
    2,171
    Gender:
    Male
    OC
    Vehicle:
    '16 TRD Sport DCSB
    People have done this and were very disapointed, really the SS lines are the best way to go.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top