MARYLAND TACOMAS

Come up to the next meet and shoot it, along with many other shooting toys. My favorite one to shoot is the BMG 50cal.

 

I regret selling my Armalite AR50A1

 

ive heard very mixed reviews on the reliability of those. interested to see how yours does

 

Rob, so I have similar harnesses. I confirmed that I did connect the switch indicator lead to the 20A Door R/L fuse. It only has power when the truck is on. However, I can still turn the lights on with the truck turned off because the switches main power is pulled directly off the battery via a harness with an inline fuse and relay.

 

Anyone have any recommendations on a good welding shop/fab shop around Rockville/Bethesda area?

I need 2 half dollar size holes on a 4Runner frame reinforced/patched.

 

http://dnr.maryland.gov/publiclands/Pages/western/Wolf-Den-Run.aspx

 

This is the Gen 3, earlier models had issues. From what i've read only complaint with the latest models is the ejection of the shells has been known to hit some in the wrist but a deflector can be easily installed to eliminate that issue. I shot my buddies Gen 3, along with other TW members, at the last TW meet weekend before last and everyone there that shot it liked it, including me. This is my buddy John's, it shot remarkably smooth for such a short 12ga shotgun. And what I like is its 15 shot & you can load buckshot in one barrel & birdshot in the other.

 

@EatSleepTacos does some welding and he lives nearby

 

Newbie here also Picked up a 06 DCSB TRD OFFRoad a few weeks ago.Going to try to make it this sunday.

 

#randyfab

 

Appreciate the looking out! I’m not a good fit for the job though. My welding skills are extremely basic.

 

Make sure you use a hammer and tap around the holes and the rest of that area. I had the same thing on my 4runner and ended with a big patch

 

Here’s the pic of my damage:



Worst of it is where the holes themselves are, then the perforation extends to the portion of frame that is directly above the rear LCA at its mounting point. But not the whole area, so it seems a lot of what is welded is solid. I see now that the area in question is where water likes to sit with nowhere to drain unless you somehow park in a big hill lol.

I’m thinking of buying something like this and just replacing the whole area, having some shop cut the slag then weld it on.

https://www.autorust.com/product/mid-frame-section-w-rear-lower-trailing-arm-mount-art-202-r/

I am now paranoid and went around the whole frame with a hammer and screwdriver and can’t really find any other issue spots. The front auxiliary crossmember that the front skid and trans cooler line mount to has a couple pinpoint spots but that’s all I could find.

The ass end crossmember looks ugly as hell but seems to be solid also. I need to pull the rear bumper and address that area.

I’ve been wire wheeling the frame, phosphate converting rust and then painting with final goal as fluid film or comparative coating. Inside of frame has been hit with Eastwood internal frame coating.

I bought the damn thing for a sweet deal though. The body and interior are near immaculate for a 2004.

 

This was the frame rust on a 04 Tacoma TRD that i bought off of a fellow TW member a few years back for cheap. I had it patched by another TW member and so far no issues, my stepson drives it everyday. I agree with Tonymontana (i'm the one that found & gave him the bad news about his frame) tap all over that frame with a small hammer and/or a screwdriver to determine the magnitude of the rust. But once patched and with proper rust prevention you should be good to go for a while.

 

Sup Kurt!? Welcome to the Kool Kids thread! This will be my first meet at Frisco's myself. Look forward to meeting you.
Rob

 

Thats right!
@68dave found out just an small area; once I removed the muffler I was surprised how bad that part of the frame was.
At least @JdevTac , that area is exposed and easy to work with. Do an inspection and test the inside of the frame (muffler may need to be removed) on that part, if that is ok, you should be fine, just patch those holes and you are good to go!

 

That sounds just like how mine are currently wired. Now I just need to buy the new switch.