What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I knew they changed that shit in 2001. For years, I've noticed the TOYOTA emblem is either a dull silver color, and some are a more lively and chrome-like silver color.

1995-2000 had that subdued dull gray color, and 2001-2004 had that almost Chrome-like color. If you want the subdued gray you need the 1995-2000 TOYOTA emblem.

Were the letters all peel and stick individually? I put an AMG badge on my Mercedes and it was held together in two layers, one layer to keep the adhesive intact, and a top layer of contact paper to keep the spacing of the letters intact.

 

That is pretty low. That's not even the minimum for stock spec. IIRC spec is something like 1.7-3.3. I don't like mine any lower than 2.5. My last alignment was 2.8-3.0.

 

At least it is still positive, many go negative. Somehow my stock arms still get 2 degrees positive with my level of lift

 

I've never driven any other way, so I don't know the difference. Perhaps once the new UCA's are installed...

Looks like the spec is 1.42 +/-.75 for my model number (VZN170L). Thanks for the thought to look in the FSM, never thought to look this up.

 

The level of lift really affects the feel because of the angles the TRE have to be at, stock 1.42 might be bueno, but lifted it's def not great.

 

@turbodb

Looking at your sheet again, something doesn't seem right. When anything is out of spec it would show red. On your sheet for caster it says the range is 0.7-2.2. Maybe the specs are different for pre-2001?

Edit: Just saw your post above, ya beat me to it. Didn't expect caster spec to be that much different from 01up. As long as it drives fine shouldn't matter.

 

Yeah, but remember, I'm barely lifted, so... But still, I hear from everyone that I want to be higher, so I'll probably at least give it a try when I do the new suspension. Plus, by moving the front forward (which increases camber), I might get the tire out of the rear of the well and flare a bit.

 

I don't like being super tall for a number of reasons, but a certain amount is necessary to have good uptravel for comfort on dirt roads and to keep the underbelly off things. I think after 4 years I finally found that sweet spot on mine, and I bet you're close too but with your skid hanging so low maybe 3/4 to 1" is what's required.

 

God I wish. Sadly no RT for me this year and probably won't be able to do another trip like that for 5-7 years. Next "bigger" trip will probably be 5 days in NH, and next BIG trip will be the Alpine loop and other glorious trails CO has to offer.

But no, haven't had AC for 3 years now and now that I am taking my pup on trips with me I don't want her getting too hot in the truck. Of course I am fixing it as summer ends but better late than never. Literally replacing everything in the system but two lines.

 

here you go. Only three weeks old, so I have to bottle feed them every few hours. They are just starting to eat a little bit of canned wet kitten food. They are in good hands with me
Someone abandoned them in the bed of my truck on early sunday morning or on saturday night, I don't know for sure

 

That's a good point, could very well be where your alignment is set at. Now I'm curious where mine land - may have to think about welding a strike plate in there to prevent this.

The truck that just works despite itself. 2.7, but plenty of power. Icons, but rides soft and cushy. Ideal camber even with stock arms.

I think you've reached shitheap nirvana.

 

Anyone who had their 01-04 frame coated by Toyota during the frame campaign have it reapplied by Toyota during a subsequent inspection? Is so, info please. Just dropped off mine for inspection, I couldn’t find and holes when I looked at it, but loads of corrosion and scaling. Dealer says the frame treatment is a one time deal...

 

I got my bearings from Wheelers You have to ask them for the circlips separately when you order, they're an extra $4 for both

 

Damn, I should have gone with the 95-00, oh well. Yeah, the letters had a paper backing across the back adhesive, and then a clear layer stuck to the front to hold the letters together. The paper backing comes off easier than the clear wrapping material.

 

except that arms add caster not camber, which is pushing the top part of the spindle BACK which means it goes into the firewall more...



So..yeah

Likely rub more if anything.

Which is why the Solo stock length arms move the bottom forward 1'' so that you offset this issue a bit and still get a lot of positive castor out of them.

 

My buddy and I are planning my first road trip since i bought my truck a little over a year ago. 10day trip from Houston. We are planning to drive our first gens up through New Mexico into Durango to Moab through the Black Canyon to Rocky Mtn National Park then to Colorado Springs and finally to Great Sandunes. Any good trail recommendation, camp sites, sites to see or tips along the way? PM if you do, thanks!

 

Well shit. I even tried looking it up to make sure I was right.

• http://yospeed.com/wheel-alignment-explained-camber-caster-toe/ - this says positive caster is forward, which I guess is hard to tell from the description if they mean the top of the line is fwd, or the bottom, given no "front of vehicle" designation.

Therefore, I wish I could un-like this post, given it's implications. But I can't, so I'll just click "like."

Anyway, it's probably just you, always bringing the bad news. Soon you'll say something like: "Might as well go 35's since you're going to need to do a bunch more clearancing anyway."

Thanks for clearing things up for me though, seriously.

 

Don't forget LT and a supercharger

 

Well, I mean naturally - you need those things to turn the 35's. Speaking of which, you forgot the GFC - another necessity of LT'ed 35's.

 

Lockers, 5.29s, and crawl box.

No skids though.

Don't need that weight at the mall.