What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

What did you say? Couldn't hear you up here.

 

And a linked rear and roll cage

 

You need the 6 rib to line the belt up. 1/4 spacer goes behind. Theres two differant pulleys. You need the thicker one on the right.

 

I have SPC UCAs. My tires are rubbing the rear a bit when stuffed even after the pinch weld cut and hammering. Ive read and been told that getting more positive caster will provide me a little more clearance from the firewall. If this is correct, would it be better to adjust caster from the UCA or see if I can do it form the LCA? UCA would be easier to adjust.

 

more positive caster = more cab rubbing

 

Hmm, I really confused on how this works now. I though adding positive caster would move my wheel forward more? Guess maybe ill just add more hammering.

 

Yup it's true assuming you guys are talking about UCAs. Aftermarket UCAs give more caster by moving the top of the spindle back. But it does nothing for helping rubbing on the cab, if anything makes it a bit worse.

When people talk about adding caster to give more clearance for rubbing it's moving the LCA forward. With stock UCAs I never had a rubbing issue. When I mean no rubbing I mean on the street. 285s, no hammering, nothing cut, not even my fender liners. When I got aftermarket UCAs I started rubbing, had to increase caster at the LCA to get back to no rubbing like when I had stock UCAs.

 

I just posted above but it depends on how you are adding caster. Adding caster at the LCA provides more clearance for the cab. Adding caster at the UCA does not.

 

Thanks! I will add more to the LCA.

 

If you have SPCs & rubbing issues, I think what some guys do is max out caster at the LCA without throwing camber out of spec, then make final adjustments on the SPCs. I'm not for sure though, check with SPC guys to make sure.

 

I hope you are looking with a screw driver and not your eyes. I tapped my frame with a screw driver and it went right through. But yes it is a one time coating, and you have till 2019 to find a hole to get yourself a new frame.

 

Sprayed all the dirty white lithium grease out of my leaf packs with brake clean and a garden hose. Bought some generic dry lube to try instead. Heres hoping it will last longer than 2 weeks.

 

Good luck, I've never had squeaky leafs, but it seems how they're painted is the most important thing. Lubes don't last, PTFE would be the best bet for a couple of months

 

The liquid wrench I got says it has PTFE in it. Don't ever buy cheap sub $400 leafs. The day I start working full time in a few years, provided I still have the truck, I'm buying some Alcans. What I really want are a pair of Wheelers 3 packs, which they don't sell anymore. But I understand Alcan can still make them.

 

When raining/muddy I have almost slipped and busted my ass while climbing in the bed so thought some skateboard grip tape on my rear bumper will help with better footing.

Randomly popped in my head at work today, never seen it done before on a rear bumper, only sliders. I am sure this is not an original idea.

Cuts are done freehand with a razor so they look like turd.

 

Why you gotta keep breaking shit?

 

I think Toyota made the right call dropping elocker actuators in favor of the electro magnet Harrop style lockers. They're just too damn fragile. Those cable actuators look better each time

 

Womp womp.

Backed into a twig of a tree going .02 mph on flat ground and it appears my CBI swing out is manufactured of pot- metal.

 

Hey @zero4 which firestone in Northridge do you take your truck to for alignments?

I need to get one before I go on a road trip Thursday and want to use my lifetime package but the one in Pasadena sucks...I remember you saying the one you go to is good? There's 3 in Northridge that I'm seeing online though