2016 shell pics?

That's a pretty generic SAE 2-pin connector. Something like this would work, just cut off one end and use posi-taps to tap into your tail light brake signal. (not sure this particular one is long enough, but should give you an idea) https://www.amazon.com/Florida-Components-Disconnect-Harness-Connector/dp/B00MYDR15I?th=1

 

Thanks. Any suggestion on which guage wire to go with?

I’m sure these are basic beginner questions, but I’m pretty electrically inept. Just about any other trade or hands on skill I’ve got in the bag.

 

I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have a DCLB in MGM, lifted, with a Leer 100XQ or a Leer 100XR on it. About to order one of these and it’s a lot of money to plunk down with no idea what it’s going to look like.

 

My SnugTop locks and unlocks with my key fob but it was an upgrade and ARE may have one too. Check with them and see. It's not a Pop-n-lock but works the same.

 

Maybe you have already done this, but when I was in a similar boat I searched for "XQ" and "XR" in this thread then looked for MGM and hopefully lifted DCLB in the search results. You could also try search for "XQ" and "XR" in the MGM thread (I assume there is one).

Sorry I can't directly help, but that's what I had to do to find a 100XR in BBP on an AC.

 

Does anyone know of a Snugtop dealer around South Carolina, North Carolina, or Georgia? I can only find the one through Snugtop’s website in Missouri. Thanks.

 

Got quoted 1850 and 1950 for a cx- only add on was folding front window. Seems a bit high but not sure.

I also asked what would the price be just for pickup because I kinda rather do the install myself

1 place said dropped 50 and the other 75. That seems hard to believe that’s their install price

 

I am selling my ARE V Series shell due to getting another truck. It's for a 2016 DCSB in MGM.

Here's a link to my Craigslist ad: https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/pts/d/are-series/6708036809.html

PM me for any interest or questions.

 

I can’t quite figure out the difference in v and cx. I thought I had it figured out but they look all similar. Is it the slant of the back end

 

There's very little difference. The only thing I could tell id the side windows on the CX were recessed into the cab a little more.

 

That’s an option in the build process, at least I think I know what your talking about. There is an aluminum framed slider window which is more flush with the cap then an aluminum framed slider with fascia which has a recess look to it. Both can come standard (not additional price for either). I like the look of the flush better but not sure why or the reasoning to a fascia/recess option I mean if it’s anything more than just looks

 

Another thing I personally do t like is the slider (cab side) window. It just doesn’t make sense to me. I did spring for the full fold down option though for cleaning access

I bought a cx cap for my old truck that I got a great deal on (150$) it had the slider cab window so needless to say nothing got truly clean between the 2. It also had the recessed side windows and meh

 

@Rob Daman has a lot of photos, YouTube channel, etc. There's a good YouTube regarding the shell itself on his channel.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...not-mod-but-we-all-know-how-that-goes.481847/

 

Well I just bought it, well ordered the new cap- cx with the fold down front window, trim less edge and no fascia half sliders

Got them down to 1683

 

Thanks! Got my Hi-Liner Sport installed a few weeks ago, pleased so far. Was thinking about doing a Prinsu or even OEM rack over the cab to help "smooth out" the roof line but it's not really bugging me as much as I thought it would. For what it's worth I went with SnugTop over ARE's mid-rise offering because it had a more tapered profile. The ARE just adds a bubble butt.

 

Hey guys, new to forum but have been lurking this thread for a little bit. finally got a cap ( ARE CX ) and having some leaking issues.
Fixed the leaks coming in at the front of the bed ( behind the cab ). But when it rains it would also get very wet along the bed rails of the cap and drip from the carpet, I thought it had to do with bad seal on the windows but after about 5 minutes of spraying the cap with a hose I noticed it leaks in from the rear of the cap ( window above tailgate ). I attached photos to get a better idea. I also attached a picture of someones truck on this thread that has the V series and it looks like a much better route for the water to run and not get into the bed. Just wanted to know if anyone with a CX is getting the same problem.

 

I haven’t got mine yet, 1st week of the month but it’s the cx too.

Is it just running down the tailgate window frame and making in the slight gap between taillight and tailgate?

 

I think this is my 1st post. I just bought my 2016 truck a couple of months ago. It's got just over 19k on the odometer. I haven't done much to it yet. Installed the ebay Pro grill, put in some MAXpider floor mats installed the vent visors. I ordered my ARE CX shell about six weeks ago and it was installed this morning. I'm really pleased with how it looks and the functionality so far. It has sliding windoors, a fold-down front slider, LED strip lighting and a carpeted headliner. I also had the basic Yakima roof system installed just in case I need it in the future. I took a few pics so I thought I'd post them just for reference.





Not sure why the first pic shows up twice. Tires and wheels and a lift are next...

 

Just got my ARE Overland installed on the weekend. Really like it.

 

Really nice shell. Looks like you got the additional support package so you can carry more weight on the top! That's the way to do it for sure...