How much are you paying for your 2018 Tacoma?

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Is the JBL now included in the PT package. I had to pay for mine separately

 

Costco is just a spoke of the truecar hub. You don't have to pay to be a member, just sign up, and click through to the vehicle you're interested in. Do be aware that if you do click through to view local inventory it will send your email and phone number to every dealer within 100 miles.

 

LOL. It's almost worth it to just pay the $60 and deal with ONE dealership haha. I just got off the phone with one and shes saying its $500-1500 below invoice with the program pricing. This may be the way to go afterall.

 

About every dealer will match the Costco pricing without batting an eye. From my experience.

 

Seconded. Also, all dealers that use TrueCar have a portal and can create a VIN specific certificate while you're there in less then 5 minutes.

 

This is all great info. Thanks guys! Hoping to be in a Cement Taco sooner than later.

 

Potential stupid question here but here goes:

Just got off the phone with the dealership and he said the bottom line for the cement 18 dcsb OR4x4 was MSRP ($38-something). Worth printing this out and bringing it in tomorrow before I sign?

UPDATE: realized I chose 4x2. Costco has the 4x4 for $34,345

 

You can, but they're able to do it VIN specific. They set their own discount through the program, and there's always variance depending on port options.

 

Picked up a double cab 4wd TRD Off Road today at Fletcher Toyota in Joplin, Missouri. MSRP: $37,947. With dealer add ons: $39,121. Out the door price: $33,761. Final price included $149 doc fee and $1,500 rebate. No trades. No TTL, we pay that separately within 30 days in Oklahoma. I found better deals by a few hundred bucks at other dealerships, but Fletcher was the closest location with the inferno color. Will fit in great at the next Oklahoma State tailgate!

 

Okie ^ ..man, I wish we had that pricing here in NCAL. Cheapest I'm getting on a SR5 4X4 is $33k. LOL

Also, I'm trying to get 2 dealers compete each other. When they ask for the other party's quote, am I supposed to email them the whole thing incl the dealer's contact info? I wonder if these dealers can talk to each other and scam me instead?

Do I give them the quote but no contact info? Silly question, I know. Sorry and thanks.

 

I've heard it's tough to negotiate in California. If the dealers collude on price, that sounds like an antitrust issue, though might be difficult to prove. I negotiate via email. I start with asking for an online quote from dealer websites, from as many dealers within a distance I'm willing to drive. I'll provide pricing to competing dealers, but I've never forwarded emails from one dealer over to another. I'll offer to show the email at time of purchase if they need to see it for proof, or whatever. It's nice if you can start with a dealership that already has heavy discounts advertised online. For example, we have dealerships in Oklahoma with advertised discounts up to $4900.

 

If your in NorCal do yourself a favor and just drive to Freeman in Santa Clara. Contact the internet sales / fleet rep. Easiest purchase ever. Their no haggle price is cheaper than everyone else’s best price

 

How do you guys get $6K off the MSRP price? I went to a local dealer here in NJ and asked him about 2018 pricing in a couple of months when 2019 will be arriving at the lot. He told me that while other companies drop prices by $3-4K on 2018 models, Toyota does not because Tacomas hold their value very well and sell great. He said that I should expect $500-1000 off on the 2018 if they still have it in stock. It was kinda weird since the few Tacomas they had on the lot were all the way in the back. One had a huge spider web over the whole bed and another one had some trash somebody most likely threw over the fence onto a bed. The trash looked like it was sitting there weeks not a day or two.

 

I'd love to know how it's done as well! My only thought is due to geographical location and the amount of inventory that dealer moves. There can't be any other explanation.

 

+1 I called my dealership a few times and have haggled with him and he’s still claiming the best they can do for me is msrp.

 

I second this. Shoot their internet dept an email before driving there. Best prices in the Bay. If you go with them, do not lease. Their rates include a margin which they are unwilling to negotiate.

 

There are 101 excuses dealers can make up as to why they can’t move on price. “These trucks are so popular, we sell so many we don’t need to run discounts” or “these trucks don’t depreciate because Toyota doesn’t run those crazy incentives like Ford and GM” or “if you don’t buy it, that guy over there will!”, etc. etc.

At the end of the day, dealers are in the business of moving metal. They might only make a few hundred dollars on the car, but they’re selling a mechanism by which to make fistfuls of cash on financing, accessories, warranties, etc.

Don’t be fooled into thinking there’s no wiggle room on price. 4-6k off MSRP on these trucks is attainable every day of the week, but you have to be willing to “waste” the dealers time, and often waste more than one dealer’s time. Get them invested and pull them down the rabbit hole. Spend 4 hours at a dealer and get them within an inch of signing the paperwork, and then leave with their best numbers and hit up the next dealer. Rinse and repeat until you’ve exhausted all options.


One thing that WILL set off an alarm bell with sales people is the quick move where you call or stop by a dealer and immediately ask up front for their “best price”; they’ll see right through this as an attempt to get a price and then walk out the door to play it off another dealer. Ultimately you’re going to do this either way, but you need to make them feel like you’re actually going to buy from them if you want them to give you a real, competitive price.

 

Well, it wasn't $6k off, though I've seen others in this thread get that kind of discount. It was around $4200, plus they ate dealer fee and their add ons. Perhaps fly to Oklahoma, purchase a vehicle, and drive it home. I can provide names of sales people in Joplin and OKC that will give you an excellent deal on a Tacoma, or any Toyota. We've purchased four (three Tacomas and a Corolla) from four different dealerships in the past four years, and received heavy discounts on each.

 

I agree on the excuses. We've never bought a Toyota in our own metro because the two dealerships will hardly move on price. They believe the current $1500 rebate on Tacomas should be enough, nothing else. Though, I disagree on spending time in dealerships. Negotiations can all be handled via email, but that's just my personal preference. I don't want to waste time going to a dealership unless I'm leaving with a vehicle.

 

I never call or go into the dealer, it’s a waste of time and I only go in once a deal is finalized. Here’s how I got my pricing. First I emailed all my local dealers and asked them for their best price on the truck I want (offroad, Doublecab, auto, 4x4). Then I take the lowest and send it to the other dealers and ask them to beat it. I just keep doing this until I’m on the last dealer and they say ok enough either buy or don’t, and then I ask for more off haha. I always refuse to get on the phone and do everything through email. I actually got better pricing from a dealer in PA, but I never intended on going there, I just used their pricing to make my local dealer beat it. In the end I got the truck for 33,900 before tax and fees (MSRP of 39042). They will give you all the BS responses like “we sell at MSRP because these trucks sell”, or “I can’t go that low I’m losing money”. Invoice before any options is around 33k for a TRD offroad, so there’s your target price. You want get as close to that as you can, basically making them eat the cost of any add ons. By the way I went back and forth since August, and I’m just now picking up the truck tomorrow.