Custom Double Cardan Driveshaft Installed

Oh, tip on installing buy yourself, ratchet straps across the frame to do rough placement

 

Axle wrap
in 4x4 the fronts help remove the load

my 88 toy 4x4, 99 taco ACLB 4x4 did it too in 1st gear

my 09 does it even more if I floor it

There is a rod you can attach to the diff and frame to help or some get ladder bars that can reduce it

 

I wonder if they'd consider doing a group buy for cheaper.

Im second guessing the single driveshaft as now Ill be at 4.88s and probably not able to go above 80 : /

 

??????? Why not be able to go above 80??? Geared right, should be no problem??? what size tires?

Are we talking 80 on speedometer or actually 80MPH???

 

If you want to go the slip yoke/double cardan route, and keep center bearing, you could always buy a rear driveshaft from a long bed tacoma that has the slip in it, bring it to local shop, have them cut the shaft and add double cardan. Driveshaft prob run you $300, shop prob charge you another $300 or so.

 

actually 80, and its because the critical speed RPMs with 4.88s is right around there with 37s. yes I know most people don't have gears that low, I do because of the 37s.

huh, why would you need the long bed one? my short bed shaft has a slip joint at the base by the Diff, just not a CV joint by the carrier bearing

 

I did the same but with a 1350 CV and a 3/4 chevy carrier bearing. Had to mod the crossmember. Ive got pics but havent uploaded them yet

 

Just a quick update after having this driveshaft on my truck for a couple of months and ~1,000 miles. I don't drive the Tacoma every day, and when I do, my commute is short. I was still getting a slight hint of shudder with this new driveshaft, but it was nothing like the OEM unit. I decided today to first try dropping the CB using an OME drop spacer. Doing that made it worse, so I removed it and flipped the CB upside down. ZERO shudder now.

The rear leafs are simply wrapping too much and I would have been better off removing some of my axle shims, but right now, my setup is perfect. No shudder or vibrations at any speed.

Not a cheap fix, but I cannot tell you how nice it is to take off and it's 100% smooth. I plan to upgrade the leafs at some point in the future, but for now, I'm happy.

 

I did the same thing about a year before you did. Mine is a modified stock drive shaft and it works perfectly. It really is the best total solution to vibrations. I have about 20k miles on mine and it's flawless. I have a thread about it too located here.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/single-piece-driveshaft-vibes-be-gone.475797/

 

Your thread has been instrumental in developing my Plan B if my current remedies don't solve my vibration issues. Thank you for the detailed post and information.

 

I got under my truck & looked @ rotating the CB 180°. It appears this would make zero difference but I've read several people having luck just flipping it over. What does flipping it do?

 

The CB tabs are slightly offset from the center. flipping it will raise the shaft ~3/4of an inch.

 

I couldn't tell that by just looking @ it. Thanks!

 

its not much at all. 3/8ths or so offset, but multiply that by 2 when you rotate it makes a bit of a difference.

 

Could we get some part numbers used for this? The only way I've seen to do it use 1310 joints. Keeping 1330s would be great.

 

I flipped my CB & it definitely made it worse. Flipped it back over, added the OME spacers plus an additional thick washer (as the CB drop spacers didn't make much of a difference before) & now I'm down to almost no vibes. VERY little. I'm going to get longer CB bolts & add another washer. I'd imagine that'll make it GTG. Thanks!

 

Thanks for the write up OP, just baught my truck a few months ago and already hating the shutter and shake. how is the shaft holding up now?

 

The driveshaft is great and no issues at all. Most of my issues are caused by using the OE springs and the progressive AAL without the overload. I believe this allows for a lot of axle wrap, which screws up the driveshaft angles. When the axle wraps that much, it's hard to shim it correctly.

I have a set of upgraded 2017 TRD OR springs, which are 1MM thicker per leaf, compared to the 2015 TRD OR springs. I'm debating swapping springs and swapping the AAL over to them. That would certainly help the wrapping a bit.

For now, it's largely 100% vibration free. I only notice a little shudder if I'm aggressive with the throttle. That also happened when 100% stock.

 

Dont even freaking bother with the stock leafs of any kind. I had original 2+1 leafs on my 2013, which a TSB upgraded to 3+1, still had axle wrap issues, then a single 2in aal to make it a 4+1, which made axle wrap worse, then 500 bucks for a bud built traction bar which still didnt cure everything.

350 bucks for some dakar mediums, no traction bar and things are far better than everything i have done in the past.


Went and did some doughtnuts in my buddies bone stock 2018 TRD OR 4x4.... and i could feel the axle wrapping / hopping.... stock leaf springs are just noodles.

 

Was it driveline services in west sac that you passed on OP?