Hold My Pipe....

I couldn't take it anymore. I started pulling my trans to take a look at what's going on in the bellhousing. Its like, 50/50 on ready to come out. Got the connectors unclipped, Slave is off, probably 4/5 bell housing bolts left, lower ones are out up to the dowel pins and 1 starter bolt is out.

Stopped in the middle to, what some may consider a waste of time, but I took some time to make myself an adapter that will fit in/on my floor jack and cradle the trans. It should hopefully make getting it off much less of a hassle. I will post some pics of what I made.

Dont worry Nick, I will be ready to go for Rush. I swears it. This thing is driving me nuts. Do it before I end up costing myself more than a clutch.

 

Homemade floor jack trans adapter.

Would like to do a couple more things to this DIY adapter, but hopefully this thing is as legit as I think it is. It fits perfectly right up under the transmission. I could wrap a ratchet strap around the adapter/trans when I'm ready to get it all the way out as well.

 

No decision on any clutch kit or anything like that currently. It's best to get it out, see exactly whats going on then order the correct stuff. I would hate to waste money and time this late in the game and so close to 2 weekends of wheeling, but I'm more afraid of everything blowing up in the bellhousing than being able to make my planned trip for this Saturday. Hopefully the adapter makes quick work of things, going in and out, it took me like an hour to get to the point where all I have like 8 bolts left to remove and it's out. 4 in the trans, 4 in the cross member.

Get er out Sunday afternoon after family visiting, take an assessment and order parts Monday.

Does anybody make a performance/upgraded trans mount for the R155F? I looked for a good hour but couldn't find anything.

 

Sounds fun either way!!

Trans is out, clutch is off. Its toast. TOB howls like a mofo'. Also, in a bit of a....idk...odder issue, some kind of pin/stud is rattling around inside the spring. 2 other springs have the same pin/stud inside the spring but neither rattles at all.

 

Inquiring minds...

Text me pics of what rattles

 

You like that 2nd vid? Pretty neat shit eh?

I tried to upload those vids but couldn't. If you know how, could you and pm me the links

 

I only got the one video, of the TOB. I was wondering what you meant by springs and pins/studs

To upload, you have to 3rd party host, like YouTube. Pics can upload direct, but I think I read something somewhere about the coding/size of video being more headache for this site to stay free.

 

The disc video cracks me up every time. Clink....clink....clink....clink...coffee can of bolts in a paint mixer machine.

 

Ordering a kit in the morning. Going to pay for express shipping. Only thing about the reinstall is how long it will take to get the trans lined up and pushed on the engine.

I am ordering the rock auto kit I linked to earlier. I don't like to just buy things cause. I want to get the best bang for the $. Do a little research, look around. To me anyways, the bigger name kits, they mostly seem to offer one, or the other. Either a upgraded pressure plate and very OEM-ish disc or a OEM pressure plate and an upgraded disc. The LCE II kit, which is nice, it's an upgraded pressure plate and OEM-ish disc where even the most they say about it on their site is brass fiber in the friction material. Also, the "Stage" kits talk about being used in egines with increased power and such, my engine is stock, it will stay stock.

The RockAuto/AMS kit offers an upgraded pressure plate and a very OEM-ish disc, but I've been lured in by the "Kevlar" aspect, at least as reported in the info section. Not a full Kevlar or anything, but hey, the Kevlar is an upgrade.

And at the end of the day, if the kit sucks, or it breaks, its on me, but, idk. It's half the price, with the same type of upgrades as bigger name kits. So.

 

You're gonna be a lot more fresh than me on the clutch this weekend. Snap yo damn neck!
I got 500 miles on mine and take-off and 1st -> 2nd will spin easy on wet roads, hell, I felt 3rd kick a little.

I went with the LCE kit because cry once. It's my DD, too. Spending that much on their kit covers both worlds. Fun in the woods and streets.

 

Understandable. I hope it works out for you!

 

Thanks! I appreciate it. Like I said, I don't like to buy things, just because of the name on it. I like to look around, see who offers what, compare between makers of a product. Do a lot of searching for info and clutch manufacturers.

I'm not bagging on any kit or any kit one would choose or anything like that.

I looked at quite a few different upgrade kits, and to me, the best offering did seem to be the Rock Auto kit. I got a higher clamp load rated pressure plate and a "Hybrid Orgainc Kevlar" disc. I looked at: LCE, Centerforce, ACT, Phoenix Friction, Mantic, Competition Clutch, Clutch Masters.

For you 4.0L trucks, you guys should check out Mantic Clutch. They make some cool shit, especially for 4x4 trucks, but they didn't seem to offer anything for the 2.7L 2TR.

https://manticclutchusa.com/pages/4x4-truck-clutch

 

Ive bought a $500 Part off rock auto before and it was junk. So im partial to stay away from them after that.

As for the clutch and big name brand talk, I get it. I’d buy Chinese LED’s before rigid.

But there are certain components i won’t cheap out on just cause I don’t want to have to do it again. LCE knows toyotas, has awesome customer service and great reviews. So that’s why I went with them and absolutely loved it. It also was nice helping out a fellow toyotaholic rather than just a big warehouse.

Wish you well with the rock auto one tho man. I’m sure it’ll be fine.

 

Ouch on the 5 spot fella. Thats super shitty. Its why I ask so many questions and seem so indecisive about everything. Truck stuff cost a lot, no one wants to blow hard earned money on junky parts.

As to RA, decent luck so far. A few things from the truck are RA parts.

 

The State Of Current Affairs:

Mostly set up to get this kit in. Should be here today. Working outside in the elements, will bring the ext cord and the shop light out, not if, but when the sun goes nighty night. Only part that has me worried is getting it back up, on and lined up without to much of a fight. Hopefully the splines engage and she slides right up on the dowel pins and it's gravy. Hopefully.

Got stuff cleaned off, decided it would be best to actually change the pilot bearing along with everything else. Went with the Gideon method. Worked. Took about an hour. Sorta get to a point where you go "alright this better start working, I have like 6 dial soap soaked baby wipes beat into this little cavity". I also switched to a punch instead after doing the extension/socket method for awhile. Honestly started going a lot better once I got the punch. Had a nice flat nose to actually compact material behind the bearing.

Changed out the LED headlights to regular halogen's while I've been taking to long to do a simple clutch. (It's all been $ related, not issue related)



​

 

Trans is in, bolted down and mounted up. Still got a few things to do, all the heavy stuff should be taken care of though. Left are: Sensors, driveshafts (front on already, needs bolted down), starter, slave cylinder, shifter. Should be able to take her out for some driving tomorrow evening.

Overall, it went pretty smooth. It just took a few, took some time to get it lined up and work the jack back and forth to get it to move in a forward position. Trans seemed to line pretty well as I got it hand worked up to the dowl pins. Hand tightened with socket/ratchet the rest of the way, then locked em down.

 

Like night wheelin' But not. Lolololz.



So dirty and gross. Take some of this mud back to Rush on Saturday.

 

Lawl. Did you even wash it afterward?

 

Fuck no!

About to head out and get this thing finished up. After holding the pipe for a minute or two, err, safety meeting I mean.