1st gen DIY rock sliders.

Hey guys, I have a 01 TRD Xtracab and imI trying to build sliders for it. I know the length, but not sure how long to make the mounting legs, and the short bars to connect the square tube to the round 1.75 tube.

I've been researching a lot and no one gives measurements. I want to build my own and also don't want to pay $600 for some pipes lol. That can go to a winch bumper. I remember seeing an equation on how to build them to support the weight you need but can't find it again.

As far as mounting plates I've read 3/16ths but other than that no clue. Might just have to be a big boy and make up my own measurements.

 

It doesn't have to be exact. I think it's about 15-17", a little more if you have a kick out. I did my own and worked off rough measurements. They came out fine. Do a lot of measuring and sketching.

 

Aye I just made some for my girlfriends 1st gen extra cab. I did my own measurements.
Ok so what I did was get 2 jack stands and place to round tube on them to get the height and how far to stick out from the cab. Then using another set of jack stands lay your cut piece of square tube that the round tube will weld onto. Then you will know how it will basically look and can get measurements. Next I bent the round tube, cut it to fit flush to fit on the square tube, tac welded it and if you have a kick out you can measure the "Legs" from the round tube to the square tube and slide them in place after you notched one side.

 

The weld together a way to go.

 

I don't remember the measurements off hand, but this is what mine look like. I have 4xinnovations sliders, the weld together "kit". I ended up taking an inch off the tubes for a lower profile fit/look.

The measurements really don't matter. It's just about how they'll work for you.

If you wheel in a lot of tight woods, you might want to keep them wider for better door protection against trees. Shorter (closer to frame) means there's less leverage on the sliders when resting/slamming your sliders on rocks, which means they're stronger.


Notice the extreme terrain I drive where the added protection of the sliders really come in handy... lol

 

@Jbrant sweet looking truck, and thanks to everyone. I'll have to compile everything as I go and leave notes here. Just thinking on how much material to buy, and obviously looking for a hand to hold haha.

 

Your last sentence made me laugh out loud.

 

I have to admit I chuckled when I wrote it, too

 

I did 6x6 .25" plate on the frame with 1.5x1.5 legs, the slider is 2x3x.25.
I made the slider and did like mentioned above with the jack stands. I took a level from the furthest part out on the door and set them .50" past. They were a .25" below the body by design, after putting my 1in body lift on they are the perfect step and offer side and up ward protection. Totally about 4hrs 3 beers and 120$

 

It looks even better now, lol...

Took the lower valance off for better approach clearance, and haven't figured out how I'm going to finish it off. Only temporary until I get a "real" bumper...

I just measured my sliders and I'm looking at 14.5" from the frame to the outside of the slider, excluding the kickout. It's enough to clear the doors vertically, but not by a lot. I don't do a ton of tight woods, so I'm not super worried about that.

Another thing is to be sure you use some 1/4" plate and weld that to the frame and weld the tubing to the plate, rather that welding your tubing straight to the frame. Mine cane with 4"x4" plate for that. Also some triangular gussets on top of the tubing/plate for more stength.

 

@Adude Sweet thanks for that man, the beers were probably the number one tool for the job. The price is helpful too, I was expecting to pay around that in materials.

 

I decided to do that actually but what I've seen is usually 3/16 in kits and such so I was just gonna copy that. It's only 1/16th thinner so probably OK? Eh who knows. Maybe that's for bolt on and I plan on welding to the scab plates.

 

What came with my 4xinnovations weld-on kit was 1/4" plate. You'd probably be fine with either. You just shouldn't weld your tubes straight to the frame.