2018 Toyota Tacoma DCLB BBP Audio Build

Everything ordered 9/29.

Looked at a "budget build" for a few days. Went off the deep end and researched OEM Audio Plus for a few days. Started building a cart on crutchfield and Amazon for a few days. Pulled the trigger today on building and installing my own system using some familiar components from previous systems.
Here is my build list to start.

- JL Audio CS110TG-TW3 enclosures (2) no customization, will stick them behind the back seat and build a small amp / crossover platform between them

- JL Audio XD1000/5v2 amplifier (1)

- Morel Maximo 6 component speakers with crutchfield included adapters for the front

- Morel Maximo Ultra 602 Coax speakers for the back with crutchfield included adapters for rear

-

$12 71-1761 87 - 94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

71-1761 Metra Harness
-

$7 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

70-1761 Metra Harness (will probably not use since I want to rerun all new speaker wire, but bought just in case I change my mind)
- Metra tweeter adpaters
- 9 wire speedwire
- 100 ft of 16 gauge wire
- 4 gauge Knu Koncepts Amp Install kit, includes power wire, ground wire, 100 AMP fuse
- speaker wire to RCA adapters
- mixed bag of heat shrinkable wire connectors
- 36 sq ft. Noico
- small roller
- Noico Tape
P.S. No LOC of any kind. If you've never installed a JL XD model, they and some other models include the ability to select pre-amp or high level inputs and it filters things out for you. Very convenient. I'll be using the high level with the Tacoma of course.

OTD costs just under $2,000. Clearly the hallmark of the build will be the JL Amp and Subs. Have had both before and they are long lasting, great resale, and sound fantastic. Took a flier on the Morels. Have never used them before. Hopefully they can keep up with the TW3s. If not, may need some alteration there at some point.

With some previous experience plus several hours of review on some forums, I have no fears of getting everything together myself. Tuning can be temperamental but I have some help I can go to. I have no doubt this will BLOW away the OEM Audio Plus I was considering.

Lots of detailed builds documented. So I'll only post a few pictures along the way for historical evidence, but not every detail. If you happen to be following along and are in a similar stage, feel free to reach out and I'll tell you what I'm looking at. I can assure you however, that there are several other MUCH more qualified question answerers on the forum. However, my opinion as a novice can come in handy as many of you are seeing things the same way I will be until I figure them out. Always just matched wire to wire on AMP input in the past. I was stumped on using the Harness until it finally clicked, so I know what some of you are thinking. Wish me luck!

 

Tore everything apart in about 2 hours. Every panel needed, back seats altogether, dash and HU. One pic I’ve never seen on here is the back of the factory HU. I’ve seen 50 examples of wiring harnesses being built but never the actual back. Here is what it looks like.



Nothing ships until next week so it will sit tight for a few days. Luckily I have a little Honda I can commute with for a few days.

 

No DSP?

 

No sir. I understand the concept, but on the old blind hearing test, I could never tell you a system that is using highly tuned DSP and one that was tweaked by hand with the crossover/filter knobs. No doubt the computer will show you what is optimal, but to me the difference is negligible, especially with a quality amp like a higher end JL.

I think you could start a whole new thread about this. Some forum guys will bash me for spending good money on a system and not “going all the way”.

 

You haven't heard it done right yet .

Either way, in for the build. Nice list of gear!

 

No doubt this is possible. First 15 years of driving or riding with friends with systems was more about who we could piss off with the bass. Just the last 5 years or so I actually want to hear the music! Lol

 

Heh, no doubt. It's a wonder I can still hear. My truck stereo now will get at least as loud as those I owned when I was a kid, but is rarely played that loud. Headroom is a good thing

 

Noico came. Rear driver side door sealed. Need to tape joints. Kind of just pieced it together around stuff. Door makes a beautiful thud now.

 

Door 2 done.

Power wire fed through firewall. This is a difficult task. I used some canola oil. Slid right through. My wire was 17 ft. Used every inch to get to my amp location at the back of the cab.



Fuse hooked to battery. I used short screws to attach it to the top of the fuse panel. Just enough slack to get the cover off if needed.

 

So on the doors did you remove the oem plastic barrier, apply the noico, then remount the plastic? Hard to tell from the pics .I'll be tackling this same thing this coming weekend and looking for best methods. I've done door speakers numerous times but never added the sound barrier before. Thanks for any tips.

 

Yes. The plastic has that black ring you see holding it on. It’s very sticky but if you get it started right it will peel up cleanly as a whole piece. Work your way around and remove the plastic. The black foam like pieces underneath just cover the holes. I didn’t remove those. Just pushed them out of the way and worked around them. It looks like some people put whole sheets of noico down and then roll/push it down. I kind of cut small pieces and pieced them together. I put noico inside the door in the holes and covered the most area I could. I don’t know what’s the “correct way” but you can feel the hollowness of the door start to go away as you place sheets. Then when you slam the door closed you can feel the sound deadening working. When done I put the black pieces back in their holes and restretched the plastic barrier to a tight seal reusing the sticky black substance. For the front seats i removed the material on the plastic all as one. It just stayed together. You will have to either cut the plastic or pull out some of the tabs to get the plastic off around the wires. Took me probably over an hour per door taking my time and just having fun putzing in the garage.

 

Others have said...edges all over are very sharp. I didn’t wear gloves and cut myself twice. Be careful. It will slice you.

 

Couldn’t sleep so I ran all my new wire. 6 total including tweeters. About 1.5 hours. Key thing to fish through the door jams...take the rubber grommets completely off. If you try and fish through while on it is difficult in the back, nearly impossible in front due to the shape of the grommet. Unplug the 3
Connectors on driver front and 2 connectors on passenger front and pop the whole grommet out towards the door. It will fish MUCH easier and putting the grommets back in their spots is pretty easy. Could have saved myself about an hour if I knew that up front.

Ran everything to the back and labeled and coiled up. Yes, I could have used the Metra harness and factory wire but it affects the crossovers for the tweeters and door speakers. If you are following along and don’t know what that means exactly, message me or find someone on the forum to explain. I had to find out myself. Also, I used thicker wire than factory.

 

I am 100% amateur at this and I’m about halfway through the wiring portion...if you are contemplating installing yourself...you can do it! Plenty of help on the forum. Just gotta ask people. Many people I’ve cold messaged have got back to me within hours.

 

Holy crap man. I love this. I can't wait to hear your impression of the Morels. I was very surprised on how easy it was to wire the doors as well. The grommet system on my old Tundra seriously made the job miserable.

(holy crap, that was post 1k)

 

I will go eat a piece of cake at work in celebration of your 1000th post.

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

cake....

 

It’s not going to eat itself...it’s from yesterday!

 

Thanks for the info!

 

Some goodies came.



Got front and back door speakers in. Figuring out the metra adapter took a little bit on the first try, flew on 2, 3, 4.

Also finished doors being Noico’d. Still have 3 sheets left. I admire the guys who take apart the whole truck and do 100%. I don’t have that much time and patience so I’ll wait and see what might sound a little hollow as I’m crawling around the truck and add a bit here and there.



Not really sonically, decided to get good components in the front and a little better coax with tweeter in the back. I’m just thinking by having a tweeter in the back, passengers will have a little better experience than just having the tweeters in front. I didn’t really research that so I’m not sure if that will work. Will see.